IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0     ^1^  1^ 


^  1^ 


.»..  1^ 


I.I 


1^    li£    12.0 


I 


L25  lliu 


i 

1^ 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


\ 


4S 


33  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

wnSTIR.N.Y.  MSM 

(716)  •72-4503 


Ss 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVl/iCMH 
Collectior  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Instituta  for  Historical  ly/licroraproductions  /  institut  Canadian  da  microraproductions  historiquas 


Technical  «nd  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


D 


D 


D 
D 


n 


Kl 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I     I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagte 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurte  et/ou  pelliculte 


I      I   Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


v^   Coloured  maps/ 

cLi   Cartes  gtographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
RellA  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serrie  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  aJoutAes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  la  texte, 
male,  lorsque  cela  Atait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  «t4  film«es. 


The 
tol 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  AtA  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  dAtaiis 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui!  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m6thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqute  ci-dessous. 


I      I   Coloured  pages/ 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag6es 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restauries  et/ou  peilicultes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxei 
Pages  dAcolor6es,  tacheties  ou  piquAes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ditachies 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Qualiti  inAgale  de  I'impression 

includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplAmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  idition  disponible 


I — I  Pages  damaged/ 

I — I  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

I      I  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

prTI  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I     I  includes  supplementary  material/ 

r~1  Only  edition  available/ 


The 
pofl 
ofl 
filrr 


Orij 
beg 
the 
sioi 
oth 
firs 
sioi 
or  I 


The 
sha 
TIN 
whi 

Mai 

diff 

enti 

be^ 

rig 

req 

me 


D 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  ref limed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  fauillet  d'errata,  une  peiure, 
etc.,  ont  M  filmies  A  nouveau  de  fagon  A 
obtenir  la  meilleura  image  possible. 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl4mentaires; 


Irrsgular  pagination:  [1]  •  176, 179  •  180, 181  - 104  p. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  chocked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmA  au  taux  de  riduotion  indiqu*  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


/ 

12X 


16X 


aox 


a4x 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


L'exemplaire  film6  f ut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
g*n6rosit*  de: 

BibliothAque  nationale  du  Canada 


The  imeges  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  Illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — »>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirety  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  tt^  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
de  la  nettetA  de  l'exemplaire  f  ilm6,  et  en 
conformit6  avec  let  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  ImprimAe  sont  filmte  en  commen9ant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'iilustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmte  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'iilustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  sulvants  apparattra  sur  la 
dernlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  la 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ".  le 
symbols  ▼  signifie  "FIN  ". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmte  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diff Arents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seui  clichA,  11  est  fiimA  A  partir 
de  I'angle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  sulvants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

PECKS'  TOURIST'S  COMPiNION 


TO 


NIAGARA   FALLS, 

SARATOGA  SPRINGS,  THE  LAKES, 

CANADA,    ETC. 

CONTAINING,  IN  ADDITION  TO   FULL   DIRECTIONS  FOR  VISITING 
THE  CATARACT  AND  VICINITY,  THE  SPRINGS,  ETC., 

FULL  TABLES  OF  ROUTES  AND  DISTANCES 

PROM   NIAGAKA  FALLS  TO  THE  PRINCIPAL  PLACES  IN  THE  UNITED 

STATES  AND  CANADA. 


ILLUSTRATED    BY    NUMEROUS 

ENGRAVINGS,  MAPS  AND  CHARTS, 

From  original  Designs  and  Surveys. 


BUFFALO: 

WILLIAM  B.  &  CHARLES  E.  PECK.     ^ 

1845 


.»    ,  .if 


r 


F'.W'^l 


I-iitered  acconling  to  Act  of  Congress,  by 

W.  B.  &  C.  E.  PECK  , 

in  the  Clerk's  Oflicc  of  the  Northern  District  of  New- York, 

in  the  year  1?4.'». 


t    ■    ,       .;  ■  ' 


1 

A, 

• 

'X 

K 

.  > 


riiESS  OI<'  G.  F.  S.  THOMAS. 


3 


PECRS'  TOURIST'S  COMPANION. 


DIRECTIONS  TO  VISITERS. 


A  V  1  N  G  arrived  at  the  Falls,  and  chosen 
your  hotel,  enter  you  name  on  the  register, ! 
secure  your  room,  and  procure  a  copy  ofi 
Pecks'  Tourist's  Companion,  which  con-  j 
tains  many  views  of  the  cataract,  and ' 
other  ohjects  of  interest,  in  its  vicinity,  and  full  directions 
for  finding  all  the  best  points  of  view,  so  as  to  employ 
your  time  to  the  most  advantage,  and  proceed  at  once, 
to  Prospect  Point,  from  which  you  have  the  best  view  of 
the  Falls,  on  the  American  side.  Feast  your  eyes  on  the 
splendid  scenery  of  river,  banks,  rapids,  and  cascades,  as 
long  as  you  desire;  and  then  pass  up  the  stream  and 
along  the  shore  to  the  bridge.  Cross  that  to  Bath  Island, 
register  your  nam3,  p:iy  tvventy.five  cents  toll,  and  then 
continue  on  Iris  I^hiiil.  Hiving  ascended  the  bank, 
turn  to  the  rig!it,  and  fjllow  the  path  to  the  lower  end  of 
the  Island.  QvAe  there  as  long  as  you  list,  at  the  Cen- 
tral and  American  Fail-',  urjd  the  magnificent  vista  of 
river  and  cliff  below,  and  then  cross  the  bridge  to  Pros- 
pect Island,  and  enjoy  a  most  magnificent  view  of  the 
American  Falls, 


I- 1 J 


!,!( 


i 


I; 


I 


■I  ;:! 


til.  I 


!         I 


■ra^ 


J 


DIRECTIONS    TO     VISITERS. 


Returning  to  Iris  Island,  pass  on  round  it,  till  you  reach 
the  great  Fall.  DesceRd  the  bank  to  the  Terrapin 
Bridge,  and  from  the  rocks  ttT  its  extremity,  behold 
majesty,  immensity,  power,  grandeur,  and  beauty!  Next 
ascend  the  Terrapin  Tower,  and  gaze  around,  above, 
below.  Now  retrace  your  steps  to  the  Biddle  Stair^case, 
and  descend  the  shaft  to  the  base  of  the  precipice.  From 
the  foot  of  the  Stair-case,  pass  up  to  the  British  Fall,  and 
bend  your  wondering  gaze  on  the  floods  that  come  tumb- 
ling down  the  cliff,  far,  far  above  you,  and  fall  in  foam 
and  thunder  at  your  feet.  Pass  behind  the  sheet  aa  far 
as  you  can  or  dare  ;  and  returning,  make  your  way  back 
to  the  Stair-case,  pass  it  by,  and  continue  on  to  the  Cen- 
tral Fall,  and  the  Cave  of  the  Winds.  Returning,  ascend 
the  Biddle  steps,  and  then  complete  the  circuit  of  Iris 
Island,  and  re-crossing  the  bridge,  rest  and  refresh  your- 
self for  a  brief  season,  at  your  hotel,  or  elsewhere. 

That  done,  proceed  to  the  Ferry  Stairs,  descend,  take 
a  view  of  the  American  Fall  from  its  foot,  pass  behind 
the  sheet,  if  you  like,  and  then  cross  the  river.  From 
the  centre  of  the  stream,  you  have  a  view  of  the  Falls 
beyond  conception  grand.  On  landing,  pay  your  ferriage, 
eighteen  and  three-fourths  cents,  and  ascend  by  a  smooth 
carriage  road,  to  the  top  of  the  bank,  where  another 
glorious  view  of  the  Falls  is  presented.  Proceed  along 
the  brow  of  the  bank  to  Table  Rock,  and  if  the  subime 
and  beautiful  have  any  charms  for  you,  or  the  awful  and 
terrible  any  power  to  thrill,  you  cannot  there  remain 
unmoved. 

At  the  building  just  below  Table  Rock,  procure  a 
changeof  dress,  and  a  guide,  and  then  descend  the  wind- 
ing stairs,  and  pass  up  to  the  foot  of  the  Horse-shoe  Fall. 


DIRECTIONS   TO    VISITERS. 


Give  to  the  grandeur  of  this  scene  a  few  moments  obser- 
vation, and  then  follow  your  guide  through  the  driving 
spray,  to  Termination  Rock,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
behind  ths  hanging  tapestry  of  floods.  That  scenewill 
never  fade  from  your  memory  —  it  is  grand,  impressive, 
and  even  awful.  Emerging  from  this  home  of  the  mist- 
throned  thunder,  ascend  the  stairs,  change  your  dress 
and  register  your  name,  receive  a  certificate,  pay  the 
charge,  and  return  along  the  bank  to  the  Museum. 

A  short  visit  to  this  fine  collection  of  natural  and 
artificial  curiosities,  will  not  be  regretted.  From  the 
piazza,  you  can  enjoy  a  glorious  view  of  the  whole 
crescent  of  cataracts,  the  rapids  above  and  the  abyss 
below.  Leaving  the  Museum,  return  to  the  ferry,  cross 
the  river,  and  regain  your  hotel.  You  have  seen  enough 
for  once,  now  rest  and  refresh  yourself,  reflect  upon 
what  you  have  beheld,  examine  your  guide  book,  and 
decide  what  points  you  are  next  to  visit. 

In  the  body  of  this  work,  more  particular  directions  are 
given  for  such  a  round  of  observation,  as  that  sketched 
above,  which  is  designed  only  for  a  kind  of  general 
index  or  chart,  to  guide  the  visiter  in  his  first  impatient 
movements.  Take  the  book  with  you,  refer  to  it  as 
occasion  suggests,  or  requires,  and  you  will  not  only  be 
guided  right,  but  will  overlook  nothing. 

If  you  arrive  at  the  Falls  on  the  Canada  side,  the  order 
of  your  examination  will  be  so  farreversed,  that  you  will 
first  visit  the  several  points  and  obtain  the  views  men- 
tioned as  on  the  shore,  and  then,  crossing  the  ferry,  be 
guided  by  the  direction  given  above. 


I  ii 


f        ! 


i 


!f 


\'    ::M 


/Mi 


K 


f. ) 


I  t 


I  I 


tB 


I      r. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


Page. 
Directions  to  Viaiters. 3 

Hotels  at  Euflalo,  the  American,  Mansion,  Western.  •        -        -        8,9,10  1 

Hotels  at  Niagara  Falls,  Places  of  Resort,  &c.  Hi 

Hotels,  and  places  of  Resort  on  the  Canada  side.  -        -        -        -        15 1 

Chapter!.    The  Cataract,  River,   St.  Lawrence,   Supply  of  waters,   Situ-  j 

ution  of  the  Falls,   Origin  and  meaning  of  the  name.   Climate,   Animate  and  ! 

inanimate  life,    Geneml  aspect,    Natural  idigion.    Inducements  to  visiters,  ! 

Routes  of  approach,            - -        -        -        -  17 ! 

Chapter  2.  Euflalo,  its  situation,  harbor,  light-house,  history,  the  City,  I 
its  prospects,  steam  and  other  bouts,  (Joveinment  Works,  Ejicursions,  rail-  j 
roads,  conveyance  to  the  Falls. 25  | 

Chapter  3.   FoitErie,  situation  and  architecture,   surrender,  siege,    ruins,         I 
Waterloo,   Black  Rock,  Rivalry',  General  Porter,    Tonawanda,   village  and         | 
creek,   catfish  and  agues,    Schlosser  Landing,    Chippewa,  Creek,     Battle 
Ground ,   Fort  Schlosser. 30 

Chapter 4.  Villageof  Niagara  Falls,  Mountain  plain,  Lewiston,  Queeiiston, 
Youngstown,  Niagara  Village,  Fort  George,  Fort  Massasauga,  FortNiagaia, 
Traditions,   Indian  incursions,   Surprisal,  Repairs,  Additions  and  Armament.    37 

*  Chapter  5.  Niagara  Strait,  breadth,  depth,  rapids,  general  appearance, 
navigation.  Steam  Boats,  Islands,  Grand  Island,  Boston  Timber  Company, 
Village,  Mills,  Vessels  destroyed.  Buck-horn  Island,  Navy  Island,  Military 
occupation.  -  -        - 47 

Chapter  6  Niagara  River,  course  an  J  velocity,  lovdiiress,  tli\'i8ion:s  <*nftt 
characteristics,  height  of  banks,  depth,  breadth,  descent  of  the  stream, 
Retrocession  of  the  Falls,   Concluding  remarks. 52 

Chapter?.  The  Cataract  and  other  objects  of  curiosity.         -        -        -        -    57 

Chapters.    Preliminary  Remarks,    Directions,   Prospect  Point,   View  on 
the  Canada  side,    Views  on  the  American  side.    Prospect  Place,    American         j 
Fall,  Ware's  Observatory,   Bridge  to  Bath  Island,  Toll  House,   Mr.  Jacobs,         i 
Mastodon  Tooth,     Ship  and  Brig  Islands,    Lover's  Retreat,     Popping  the 
Question. ....(59, 

Chapter  9.   Iris  Island,   Names,  Initials  andDates  on  the  Trees,  the  Hog's         I 
Back,     Central  Fall,     Prospect  Island,    View  of  the  American  Fall,    other         ' 
Islands,  Profiles  on  the  rock.  Rainbow,  Terrapin  Bridge  and  Rocks,   Horse- 
shoe Fall,   Prospect  Tower. 77 

Chapter  10.  Biditle  Stair-case,  Angling,  Sam  Patch,  Fancied  Danger, 
British  Fall,  Lower  Fishing-Rock,  Cave  of  the  Winds,  Foot  of  Prospect 
Island,  Passing  under  the  American  Fall,  Circuit  of  the  Island,  Encroach- 
mentof  the  River,  Moss  Island,  Three  Sisters,  Head  of  Iris  Island,  Mounds 
and  Skeletons. -        -    84 

Chapter  11.  Ferry  Stairs,  Catlin'sCave,  Giant  Cave,  View  from  the  River, 
Road  up  the  Bank  ,  Grand  view  of  the  Falls,  View  from  Table  Rock,  Dis- 
ruptions, Varied  appearance  of  the  Fall,  Barnett's  Rooms,  Staircase,  View 
from  below,  Termination  Rock,  Museum,  Camera  Obscnra,  Iris  Island  at 
night. Di^ 


I 


TABLE    OP    CONTENTS. 


Page 
Chapter  1-2.  Ilemnrks  ami  Advice,  Good  Counsel,  Public  Garden,  Road 
down  the  Uauk,  Indian  Ladder,  Point  View,  Mineral  Spring,  View  of  the 
<at.iract,  Whirlpool  llapids,  Whirlpool  Lodge,  Whiilpool,  Bodies,  De- 
scent, Varied  Aspect,  Raft  in  the  Whirlpool,  UeviPs  Hole,  Hewlett's  Cel- 
lar,   Lewiston  Heights. 

Chapter  i3.  Queenston  Heights,  Block's  Monument,  blown  up,  Cove  or 
Chasm,  Whirlpool,  Bencackie  Point,  view  from.  Muddy  Run,  Cascade, 
Bank  opposite.  Bender's  Cave,  Improvements,  Channel,  Lundy's  Lane, 
:5treet's  Point,  Burning  Spring,  Bridgewater,  Chippewa,  Battleground, 
Concluding  Remarks. 


no 


-  liii 


Chaptei  14.  Early  History  of  the  Falls,  French  Establishments,  Expedi- 
tion of  La  Salle,  Hennepin's  tour  of  Exploration,  other  visiters,  Changes  in 
the  Cataract,  Want  of  Data. 

Chapter  15.  Accidents  at  the  Falls,  Traditionary  Reminiscence,  Loss  of 
the  Boat  Independence,   Other  Casualties,   Death  of  Dr.  Hungerfoid,   Con 


131 


eluding  Remarks. 


140 


Chapter  16.  Vessels  sent  over  the  Falls,  Schooner  Michigan,  Schooner 
Superior,  Ship  Detroit,  Sublime  Spectacle,  Adventuious  Daring,  Danger 
and  rescue  of  Chapin,    of  Allen,  the  Meed  of  Merit. '43 

Chapter  17.  Patriot  occupation  of  Njtvy  Island,  Employ  of  the  Caroline, 
Jlisrepresen'ation  and  Resolve,  Caroline  Attacked ,  Durfee  Murdered,  Ves- 
sel tired  and    ent  over  the  Falls,  Evacuationof  the  Island.     «-        -        -        -  140 

Chapter  18.  Hennit  of  the  Falls,  his  arrival  at  Niagara,  eftect  of  the  sce- 
nery, his  habits,  manners,  and  endowments,  residence  ami  death,  other 
jiiirticulars. 15-2 

Chapter  10.  Massacre  at  the  Devil's  Hole,  British  Convoy,  Indian  Ambus- 
cade, Attack,  Surprise,  Defeat,  Catastrophe,  Escape  of  Steadman  and  one 
other,    Relics,  etc. ....  155 

Cliapter  20.  Noah's  Folly,  Brilliant  Conception,  Unparalleled  Proclama- 
tion, aVIagnificent  Pa!i;eautry,  Memorialsoftliese  Wonderful  Events,  Sub- 
lime Finale.  ■      " 1/59 

Chapter -21,  SARATOGA  SPRINGS,  Direction  to  visiters,  Analyses  of 
the  various  Springs,   Baths,    Places  of  Resort,  Route  to  Montreal.        -        -  162 

Routes  and  Distinces  from  Niagara  Falls  through  Canada.     -        -        -        -  172 

Tour  of  tlie  Western  Lakes.  174 

Route  from  Chicago  to  St.  Louis,  to  New  Orleans. 180 

Tables  of  Distances  from  St.  Louis  to  New  Orleans. 191 

Rail  Road  route  from  Albany  to  Boston. 191 

From  Rochester  to  Niagara  Falls  via.  Lockport.  101 

Routeon  the  Hudson  River  from  New- York  to  Albany  and  Troy.         -        -  19-2 


Rail  Road  Route  from  Albany  to  BuA'alo 192  1 

From  New-York  to  Washington.  1<)3  | 

From  New-York  to  Philadelphia  via.  South  Amboy  and  Bordcntown.    - 
Fiom  New-Yoik  to  Philadelphia  via.  New-Brunswick  and  Trenton. 


Tiililu  of  Distances  from  place  to  place  on  the  Erie  Canal  from  Albany  to 
Butlalo. ■     . 


1<)3 
19:1 
193 

194 


i. 


.\ 


1 


1     i 


I'   s 


;U 


ii  'I 


i     \v. 


■■MMI 


f^- 


^'     I 


:if 


8 


HOTELS  AT  BUFFALO. 


AMERICAN   HOTEL. 


TliG  American  Hotel,  is  situated  on  Main-street, 
nearly  opposite  the  Court  House,  and  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  McArthurs*  Public  Garden,  the  Theatre,  &c. 
•  This  establishment  is  kept  by  Mr.  Lewis  L.  Hodges, 
'  who  has  been  at  its  head  since  its  erection  in  1836.  The 
main  building  has  a  front  of  near  two  hundred  feet 
on  Main-street,  extending  in  the  rear  about  the  same 
distance  ;  and  comprises  in  its  interior,  in  addition 
to  numerous  suites  of  splendid  Parlors,  Saloona,  Ladies 
and  Gentlemen's  Dining  Rooms,  an  extensive  As- 
sembly Room,  Bathing  Rooms,  Offices,  &c.,  all  of 
which  are  kept  in  the  most  perfect  order.  The  reputation 
which  this  establishment  has  obtained  under  its  present 
proprietor,  in  every  part  of  the  Union,  is  well  deserved, 
and  the  unabated  patronage  of  the  travelling  public  shows 
that  it  is  well  merited.  The  charges  are  the  same  at  this 
establishment  as  at  all  first  class  Hotels. 


HOTELS    AT    BUFFALO. 


9 


WESTERN  HOTEL. 


The  Western  Hotel,  an  extensive  and  beautiful 
building,  is  at  the  intersection  of  Pearl-street  with  the 
Terrace.  The  site  of  this  noble  hotel  is  very  fine  ;  and 
its  proximity  to  the  harbor,  the  canal,  and  the  rail-roads, 
commends  it  to  the  patronage  of  business  men  ;  while  its 
extensive  accommodations,  and  the  unsurpassed  views  i 
it  affords  of  the  Lake,  the  Niagara  River,  and  the  Canada 
shore,  make  it  an  attractive  sojourn  for  pleasure-travellers. 
It  numerous  advantages  of  construction  and  position, 
assures  its  continuance  as  one  of  the  most  popular  hotels 
in  the  country. 

The  Western  Hotel,  is  now  kept  by  Mr.  Thomas 
CouLON,  formerly  well  known  as  the  popular  host  of  the 
Troy  House,  at  Troy,  and  more  recently  of  the  Phoenix 
Hotel,  Schenectady. 


\W 


"li 


1 

1 

i 

'     '  8' « 

B 

li. 

1     i    i.' 

i  if!    '  i 

rfi| 

:    ^'i 

_ 

'1 

V 


mi     n 


10 


HOTELS    AT    BUFFALO. 


*^.a  4'^^. 


c^^s^ 


iiiiiiiBi! 

L|j|liiilB 


I  ill!! 
IIUIII 


mill 

IIUI 


*IH| 

nil: 
Hill 


rju 


^ 


MANSION   HOUSE. 


The  Mansion,  is  situated   at  the   corner  of    Main  and 
Exchange  Streets,  about  60  rods  from    the  depot  of  the  j 
Albany  and  Bu(T^iIo  Rail-Road.     This  establishment  has 
!  been  entirely  rebuilt  during  the  past  year,  and  ranks  among 
i  the  best  of  the  first  class  of  Hotels  in  the   Union.     The 
i  building  is  four  stories  high,  with  a  front  of  140  feet  on 
i  Main-street,  and  148  feet  on  Exchange-sf.,  and  is  kept  by  j 
I  Messrs.   G.  W.  MERHiLTi  &  Co.,  the  Co.  being  that  well 
i  known  host  M.*.  P.  Dorsheimer,     The    hou^c  ha?   been 
entirely  refurnished  the    present  season,  and  in  excellent 
I  taste.     The  central  position  of  the  Mansion  together  with 
the   well  known  disposition  of  the  hosts    to   minister    to 
!  the  comfort   of  guests,  must  render  it  always  a  favorite 
I  with  the  travelling  public. 


m 


r  r. 


^11 


11 


HOTELS  AT  THE  FALLS. 


S^^ 


'i.-:^'^-^^. 


CATARACT   ETOTEL. 


The  Cataract  Hotel  is  the  oldest  estaWishmcnt  at 
Niagara  Falls,  having  b(?en  established  by  one  of  the 
present  proprietors,  Gen.  P.  Whitnev.  It  is  now  kept 
by  hirn  in  connoc'ion  with  his  son  and  son-in-law, 
Messrs.  S.  M.  N.  Whitney  and  D.  R.  .Terauld.  This 
establishment  will  now,  for  extent,  accommodations 
and  obliging  attention,  vie  with  any  of  the  best  hotels  in 
the  Union.  It  is  situated  near  the  bank  of  the  river,  a 
part  of  it  almost  overhanging  the  rapids  between  the 
shore  and  Goat  Island,  and  commanding  a  fine  view  of 
the  verge  of  the  American  Fall,  the  Islands,  &c.  The 
principal  front  of  the  house  extends  156  feet  on  the  Main 


\  .;i: 


1. 1  <• 


"'il:i 


■K 


ii 


12 


HOTELS    AT   THE    FALLS. 


Street  of  the  Village,  with  a  wing  attached  running  248 
feet  back  to  the  rnpids.     In  this  part  are  pleasant  suites 
of  rooms  looking  out  upon  the   sublime  scene — also,  the 
Dancing  Hall,  store-rooms,   &.C.     The  principal  story  of 
ihc  main  building  is  occupied  by  the  offices,  reading-room 
and  dining  saloons,  40  by  110  feet  iti    extent,    &c.     The 
second  story    is     agreeably   arranged    with   the  public 
parlors,  suites  of  rooms  for  families,  &c.     The  third  and 
fourth  stories  are  also  conveniently  arranged— and  each 
story  is  supplied  with  a  reservoir  of  pure  vs'ater,  forced  up 
from  the  Niagara,  which  is  dispensed  to  various  parts  of 
the  house   in    bountiful    profusion.     There  are  also  at- 
tachcd  to  the  house  commodious  bathing   rooms,  where 
warm  and  cold  baths  can  be  procured  at  a  moments  no- 
tice.    The  culinary  department  of  the  establishment  is 
conducted    with   most  scruptilous   regard   to    neatness, 
cleanliness   and   order.      The   proprietors   have  drawn 
largely  upon  the  waters  of  the  cataract   in    the  internal 
arrangement  and  domestic  economy  of  the  establishment 
— by  means  of  a  water  wheel   ingeniously  arranged    in 
the  basement  of  the  house,  a  large  part  of  the   drudgery 
is  performed,  which  is  usually  done  by  hand — not  only 
is  the  water  conveyed   in   spouts  directly   over  the   im- 
mense  wash-boilers,    but   the   coffee   is  ground— wood 
sawed,  and  even  the  knives  cleaned   by  the  help  of  the 
same  agent :   no  filth  or  offal  of  any  kind   is   allowed  to 
accumulate  about  the  establishment — everything  of  the 
kind  being  conveyed  away  to  the  great  abyss  by  ample 
sewers — which  in  turn  are  kept  thoroughly   clean  by  the 
application  of  copious  streams  of  the  pure  element  which 
are   incessantly  kept  flowing.     The  same   operation  also 
extends  to  the  private  offices.     The  larder,  wine-cellar. 


■.  .(f  T '  '.^  ■*^^'i*',"'  ™  '^'^"r*'    '!T*^T^'"^T  ■ 


HOTELS    AT    THR    FALLS. 


13 


drc.  are  ulso  arranged  with  admirnbie  regard  to  coolness, 
neatness,  &.c.  The  proprietors  have  also  recently  laid 
out  a  beautiful  terraced  garden,  adjoining  the  house  on 
the  banks  of  the  river,  which  is  stocked  with  choice 
flowers,  shrubs,  &c.  forming  on  a  summer  evening  a  most 
cool  and  delightful  retreat.  Adjoining  the  garden  is  an 
enclosed  fish-pond,  which  is  at  all  times  kept  stocked 
with  the  choicestdenizens  of  ihe  Niagara,  ready  to  be  serv. 
ed  up  for  the  guests.  The  stables,  poultry-yard,  &c.  are 
all  on  the  same  neat  and  excellent  plan,  evincing  on  the 
part  of  the  proprietors,  sound  judgment,  good  taste,  and 
an  ardent  desire  to  minister  to  the  comfort  of  the  travel- 
ling public.  .  m;   .  .'       ,,;     .    ... 

About  one  mile  distant  from  the  village  is  the  farm  at. 
tached  to  the  hotel — from  which  most  of  the  supplies  for 
the  house  are  drawn  ;— here  everything  presents  the  same 
orderly  arrangement — the  dairy,  with  every  pan  and  uten- 
sil of  exemplary  neatness.  The  poultry  yard — Vegetable 
gardens,  &c.  all  betoken  the  greatest  cnreand  systematic 
arrangement.  The  farm  covers  an  area  of  some  five 
hundred  acres,  about  one  half  of  which  is  under  fine  cul- 
tivation, and  well  stocked  with  the  best  breed  of  cattle, 
&c.  &c. 

The  St.  Lawrence  Hotel,  kept  by  Mr.  T.  W.  Fan- 
ning, is  a  quiet,  neat  house,  where  the  traveller  can  be 
well  accommodated,  and  at  very  moderate  charges.  Mr. 
F.  is  now  engaged  in  putting  up  a  new  Hoief,  at  the  junc- 
tion of  Main.street  and  the  Niagara-Falls  Rail-road. 

There  are  several  other  small  establishments,  where 
those  wishing  can  be  accommodated,  at  a  much  less 
price  than  at  the  large  hotels,  with  doubtless  a  corres- 
ponding diminution  in  the  extent  of  accommodations 


i  i 


J    ! 


.1 


!l 


I  i 


)  ,. 


I 


ri 


^;l 


14 


PLACES    OF    RESORT. 


The  old  Eagle  Tavern,  is  at  present  unoccupied,  and 
the  splendid  hotel  projected  by  Mr.  Ratiibun,  still  re- 
mains in  embryo,  the  foundations  remaining  as  left 
by  him  in  1836. 

IIui.ETT*s  Emporium  of  Indian  Curiosities  is  opposite 
the  Cataract  Hotel,  and  is  well  worth  a  visit. 

Point  View  Garden,  near  the  American  Stair  Case,  is 
also  a  most  agreeable  resort.  j 

Guide  TO  the  Falls. — The  veteran   Hooker,  with  his 
sons,  still  continue  to  act  as   guides  to  the  Falls,   and  to  ' 
those  who  wish  to  see  everything  of  note  in  the  shortest 
space  of  time,  their  services  are  valuable,  I 


\ ;::;v,5sv:.  ^vJ'U-.  .■."■;.--.i'^ ■./ti.<  Vii  .'.,v«:'.. 


'""'"^"'"r"'*'""-^*"/'" 


•^-^ 


>.y7;''-- 


*^ 


-e- 


'Sk  -..^ 


S"#-  • 


V 


'  '1  iii, 


I     I; 


:>.  rW~^. 


\-i-^.^v 


;-„m  ,,-;■:**'• 


;H 


."HAr 


.  -A' 


jpt- 


J'".- 


lis 


?" 


'\    ■     V. 


"l 

.  >s$ 

',  ^' 

^ 

i'     ' 

.    \ 

t" 


» 

^  1n 

H 

!    ■% 

'1 

'f 

.    ; 

'  i 

\ 

1,y 

1 

I:: 


r-ll 


1      .     ..       ,,.?'-', 


I^AUK  Ovryyr/Mf* 


I. .  I  />■  /■!  /:  II I  n     'yM«"n.jn.>..  f^ 


'■o;»v  rti'.rnT   i^fflcMrni 


KngravoA   frr  I"pr>l<B   rniiH9l.'!l.'')m).iiiu<m 


"r  „■,..,„  .\ij,.,„v 


•  ,■.-■>■■ 


CANADA    SIDE. 


15 


SE^  iSi^-r  : 


iff  #ir  ill  di:  ill  ill 
^^""'''''^^■Wi  nil  ill  1 1  ill 


■In.  'rnm . 


I    ■■    ■■    ■■ 


■^ 


i;i-1T,;^iri(:>mi!'... 


CLIFTON    HOUSE. 


I  Oil  the  Canada  side,  the  Cufton  House,  a  large,  ele- 
gant, commodious,  vvell-fiiiishcd,  and  well-furnished  ho- 
tel,  stands  on  the  brow  of  the  bank,  near  the  ferry,  and 
comniiinda  a  splendid  view  of  the   Falls,  in    which  all 

\  their  majesty  and  f|:lory  are  revealed.  It  is  a  noble  struc- 
ture, with  triple  colonnades  of  ample  length  and  area,  and 

|an  interior  that  leaves  nothing  to  be  regretted.  Mr.  Cor- 
nelius Grtffin,  a  veteran  host,  is  landlord  of  this  estab- 
lishment, which  is  conducted,  under  his  personal  superin- 
tendance,  in  a  manner  that  speaks  for  itself,  and  needs 
no  eulogy.     Since  the  accompanying  view  was  ninde,  an 

I  addition  of  u  wing  nearly  100  feet  in  extent,  and  corres- 
ponding in  height  with  the  main  building,  has   been   ad. 

ided,  making  an  establishment  equal  in  extent  to  the  larg. 

'  est  class  of  Hotels. 


f 


i 


::l 


r  ■/»' 


I  i 


■iUl 


'il  !l 


_^__  I 


;tS^     "^- 


III 


i 


¥ 


'.    I 


16 


CANADA   SIDE  —  CHICAGO. 


The  Pavillion  Hotel  occupies   a  very  elevated  and 
conspicuous  portion  on  the  upper  bank,  overlooking  Ta. 
ble  Rock  and  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall.     This  house  is  now 
open,  and  well  kept. 


MR.  BARNETT»S  MUSEUM  AND  GARDEN. 

This  establishment  has  been  alluded  to  in  the  body  of 
this  work,  and  forms  one  of  the  most  attractive  places  of 
resort  on  the  Canada  side.  No  visiter  should  omit  visit- 
ing it.  The  museum  contains  a  large  number  of  interest, 
ing  curiosities,  collected  from  the  vicinity  of  the  Falls, 
and  also  from  different  quarters  of  the  globe. 

The  collection  of  living  Birds  and  Quadrupeds  is  quite 
large,  and  affords  an  interesting  study  to  all. 

The  Garden  attached  is  extensive,  and  well  stocked 
with  choice  native  and  exotic  plants,  and  embellished 
beautiful  summer  houses,  rustic  arbors,  seats,  &c.;  and  a 
sweet  fountain  is  now  in  the  course  of  erection,  forming 
a  beautiful  feature  in  the  garden. 

Mr.  Barnett,  the  proprietor,  is  a  man  of  science  and 
taste,  and  takes  pleasure  in  pointing  out  to  visiters  the 
principal  objects  of  interest.  ^      . 


m 

*?i' 


■i'^'^i;^    %.lIx^: 


LAKE  HOUSE  AT  CHICAGO. This  establish- 
ment is  conducted  by  Mr.  William  Rickords,  and  is  one 
of  the  best  establishments  in  the  Western  country.  To 
those  who  recollect  the  faithful  and  efficient  *»  William" 
who  for  so  many  yeard,  officiated  as  superintendent  of 
the  American  at  Buffalo,  no  farther  eulogism  is  neces- 
(sary. 


i 


Milll 


PECKS'  TOURIST'S  GOHPANION. 


NIAGARA   FALLS. 


CHAPTER    I. 

THE  CATARACT — HOW  PORMEO  —  RIVER — ST.  LAWRENCE  —  SUPPLY 
OF  WATERS  —  KITUATION  OF  THE  FALLS  —  ORIGIN  AND  MEANING  OF 
THE  NAME^-CLIMATE  —  ANIMATE  AND  INANIMATE  LIFE — GENERAL 
ASPECT — NATURAL  RELIGION — INDUCEMENTS  TO  VISITERS — ROUTES 
OF  APPROACH. 

NIAGARA. 

Shrine  of  Omnipotence!    How  vast,  how  grand, 

How  awful,  yet  how  beautiful  art  thou! 

PillarM  aiound  by  everlasting  hills, 

Bobed  in  the  drapery  of  descending  floods,  > 

Crowned  by  the  rainbow,  canopied  by  clouds 

That  roll  in  incense  up  from  thy  dread  base, 

Hid  by  their  mantling  o'er  the  vast  abyss, 

Upon  whose  verge  thou  standest,  whence  ascends 

The  mighty  anthem  of  thy  Maker's  praise, 

Hymn'd  in  eternal  thunders !  :.-  ' 

A  T  U  R  E  has  many  waterfalls,  a  few  cata- 
racts—one  Niagara  !  That  stands  alone, 
vast,  grand,  indescribaWe  !  —  the  mighty 
alembic  in  which  the  world  of  waters  is  re. 
fined  and  etherealized!  —  the  august  throne 
upon  which  Nature  sits,  clothed  in  the  glorious  attributes 
of  power  and  beauty! — -the  everlasting  altar,  at  whose 
cloud-wrapt  base  the  elements  pay  homage  to  Omnipo- 
tence  ! — The  floods  that  pour  down  its  tremendous 
heights,  seem  gushing  from  the  opened  heavens,  and 
plunging  into  the  depths  of  the  unfathomable  abyss !  — 
Air  groans,  earth  trembles,  deep  calleth  unto  deep,  and 


'  1 


m  n 


( '  ■)' 


I  \ 


'<i  ' 


A 


l\\ 


i 


18 


tourist's  companion. 


Volume  of  Water —  Lakes  and  iributaries. 


answering  thunders  roll  up  the  vast  empyrean !  Like  a 
seething  hell  the  gulf  below  sends  up  the  smoke  of  its 
torment,  and  the  foam  of  agony  thickens  upon  the  face 
of  the  dread  profound,  while  far  above  upon  the  verge  of 
the  precipice,  sits  the  sweet  Iris  —  like  faith  upon  a  dying 
martyr's  brow  —  arching  the  fearful  chasm  with  its  out- 
spread  arms,  and  smiling  through  all  the  terrors  of  the 


scene. 


..'<      V 


tl 


Bright  bow  of  Promise ! 
Sit  ever  thus  upon  the  beetling  brow 
Of  the  dread  cataract,  which  but  for  thee  '     ,,« 

Were  all  too  terrible :  —  Smile  ever  thus ,  > ,     .  ■•  ■  •  i  - 

Making  that  beautiful  which  else  were  hideous. 

This  cataract,  the  most  wonderful  and  amazing  curi. 
osiiy  in  the  natural  world,  is  formed  by  the  precipitous 
descent  of  the  river  Niagara  down  a  ledge  of  rocks  of 
more  than  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  perpendicular 
height,  into  an  abyss  or  basin  below,  of  unknown,  but 
probably  much  greater  depth.  The  river  Niagara  is  that 
portion  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  by  which  the  lakes  Erie  and 
Ontario*  are  united.  It  is  the  outlet  by  which  the  vast 
volume  of  eurplus  waters  of  those  great  inland  seas,  Erie, 
Huron,  Michigan,  Superior,  and  of  the  St.  Clair  and  other 
smaller  lakes  and  streams,  is  poured  into  lake  Ontario, 
from  whence,  by  the  river  and  gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  it 
finds  its  way  to  the  Atlantic  ocean.  The  St.  Lawrence 
is  one  of  the  largest  and  longest  rivers  on  the  globe,  hav- 
ing its  source  in  the  rocky  mountains,  many  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  distant  from  the  ocean  into 
which  it  flows,  more  than  two  thousand  miles. 


*  This  lake  was  formerly  called  Lake  Frontenac,  after  a  French  Count  of  that 
name,  who  was  first  Governor  of  Canada. 


a( 
bi 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


19 


Volume  of  Water  —  River  Niagara. 


Some  idea  of  the  immense  quantity  of  water  forced 
over  the  falls  of  Niagara,  may  be  formed  from  the  fact, 
that  the  lakes  and  tributaries  which  supply  the  river  Nia- 
gara, cover  a  surface  of  not  less  than  one  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand  square  miles ;  and  contain,  as  nearly  as 
can  be  estimated,  about  one  half  of  all  the  fresh  water 
on  the  globe.  The  land  surface  drained  by  this  vast  ex- 
tent of  lakes  and  rivers,  measures  scarcely  less  than  half 
a  million  of  square  miles.  While  the  earth  and  the  ope- 
tions  of  nature  continue  without  material  change,  Niaga. 
ra  must  ever  exhibit  a  scene  of  undiminished  grandeur 
and  sublimity. 

This  stupendous  cataract  is  situate  in  latitude  43  deg. 
6  min.  north,  and  longitude  2  deg.  6  min.  west  from 
Washington.  It  is  twenty-two  miles  north  from  the  ef- 
flux of  the  river,  at  Lake  Erie;  and  fourteen  miles  south, 
from  the  introgression  of  the  stream  into  Lake  Ontario. 
The  whole  length  of  the  river  is,  therefore,  thirty-six  miles 
—  its  general  course  is  a  few  points  to  the  west  of  north. 
Though  commonly  called  a  river,  this  portion  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  is,  more  properly  speaking,  a  strait,  connect- 
ing as  above  mentioned,  the  lakes  Erie  and  Ontario,  and 
conducting  the  superfluous  waters  of  the  great  seas  and 
streams  above,  through  a  broad  and  divided,  and  after- 
wards  compressed,  devious  and  irregular  channel,  to  the 
latter  lake,  into  which  it  empties  —  the  point  of  union  be- 
ing about  forty  miles  from  the  western  extremity  of  the 
lake.  ,,     ,i  .  --     ,  - 

Niagara  is  a  word  of  Indian  origin  —  the  orthography, 
accentuation,  and  meaning  of  which  are  variously  given 
by  diflferent  authors.     It  is  highly  probable  that  this  di- 


'T 


11 


If  '^ 


V  i 


lu 


•1^ 


W.  % 


V 


%A. 


20 


tourist's  companion 


Origin  of  Name — Climate. 


versity  might  be  accounted  for  and  explained,  by  tracing 
the  appellation  through  the  dialects  of  the  several  tribes 
of  aborigines,  who  formerly  inhabited  the  neighboring 
country.  Such  an  investigation,  however  interesting  to 
the  philologist,  would  present  but  little  attraction  to  the 
general  reader,  and  is  therefore  quite  foreign  to  our  pre- 
sent purpose.  There  is  reason  to  believe  that  the  ety. 
mon  belongs  to  the  lanofuage  of  the  Iroquois,  and  signi- 
fies  the  Thunder  of  Waters,  The  word  Niagara  has  also 
been  defined  "  a  large  neck  (or  strait)  of  water,"  — 
''^across  the  neck  (or  strait)  of  water, ^^'^'•^ a  fall  of 
water," — **  broken  water," — "  running  water," — "  the 
voice  of  water,**  etc.  That  this  name  was  applied  by  the 
natives  to  the  river  (or  strait)  as  well  as  to  the  cataract 
itself,  is  certain :  —  adjectively,  it  has  been  retained  by 
both  — substantively,  it  should  belong  to  the  latter. 

The  climate  of  the  Niagara  is  in  highest  degree  health, 
ful  and  invigorating.  The  atmosphere,  constantly  acted 
upon  by  the  rushing  water,  the  noise  and  the  spray,  is 
kept  pure,  refreshing,  and  salutary.  There  are  no  stag, 
nant  pools  or  marches  near,  to  send  abroad  their  foetid 
exhalations,  and  noxious  miasmas,  poisoning  the  air  and 
producing  disease.  The  face  of  the  country  for  miles 
around,  though  nearly  level,  or  but  slightly  undulating,  is 
yet  so  elevated,  as  to  be  neither  damp,  disagreeable,  nor 
unwholesome.  No  pestilential  or  epidemic  complaints 
ever  inlest this  spot;— it  is  sacred  from  their  approach. 
Even  the  cholera  kept  aloof  frcm  its  raging  waters. 

Sweet-breathing  herbs,  and  beautiful  wild  flowers, 
spring  up  spontaneously  even  on  the  sides,  and  in  the 
crevices  of  the  giant  rocks ;  and  luxuriant  clusters  of  firs 


ri 
of 


% 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


21 


Flowers  —  Herbs  —  Insects. 


and  other  fine  forest  trees,  cover  the  islands,  crown  the 
clifTs,  and  overhang  the  banks  of  Niagara,  where  their 
emerald  foliage  wantons  with  the  feather-footed  spray  to 
the  music  of  its  roar,  and  they  grow  and  gladden  in  the 
bounty  of  its  breath  aud  the  joy  of  its  presence. 

Here  are  no  moschetoes  to  annoy,  no  reptiles  to  alarm, 
and  no  wild  animals  to  intimidate ;  —  yet  there  is  life  and 
vivacity.  The  many.hued  butterfly  sips  ambrosia  from 
the  fresh-opened  honey.cup  —  birds  carol  their  lays  of 
love  among  the  spray-starred  branches  —  and  the  lively 
squirrel  skips  chattering  from  tree  to  tree.  Varieties  of 
water.fowl  sport  among  the  rapids,  the  sea.gull  plays 
around  the  precipice,  and  the  Eagle  —  the  banner.bird  of 
freedom  —  hovers  above  the  cataract,  plumes  his  grey 
pinions  in  its  curling  mists,  and  makes  his  home  among 
the  giant  firs  of  its  inaccessible  islands. 

Around  the  Falls  all  is  soft,  yet  exciting  —  the  cataract 
itself,  terrible  yet  attractive.  It  has  a  fearful  yet  fascina. 
ting  beauty,  a  dreadful  but  alluring  greatness.  Apt  em- 
blem of  Divinity !  it  awes  while  it  invites  —  and  while  it 
commands  reverence,  it  secures  aflection.  Nature,  as  if 
by  a  revelation  of  her  beauty  and  majesty,  to  teach  us  a 
religion  in  which  justice  is  softened  by  mercy,  and  autho- 
rity sweetened  by  love,  has  here  concentrated  her  powers 
of  thrilling  and  exciting,  and  gathered  round  one  holy 
spot  of  earth  all  that  can  awe  and  terrify,  with  all  that 
inspires  and  delights. 

The  great  features  of  Niagara  are  ever  the  same,  but 
their  individual  expression  is  constantly  changing.  With 
every  season,  with  every  sunbeam,  with  every  shade  they 


>  i 


i 


i-( 


m 


ik 


1 1 


22 


TOURIST'S    COMPANION 


Features  of  Niagara. 


assume  a  different  appearance,  inspire  a  fresh  interest, 
and  exact  a  new  admiration. 

Serener  skies  and  a  more  salubrious  atmosphere  are 
nowhere  to  be  found.  Add  to  this  the  ocean-formed, 
rock-pillared,  cloud-mantled  cataract,  and  the  marvels 
and  glories  by  which  this  most  sublime  and  stupendous 
of  all  natural  wonders  is  surrounded,  and  what  man  or 
woman  possessing  leisure  and  means,  would  not  desire  to 
visit  Niagara,  if  but  to  pay  the  homage  of  a  day*s  admi. 
ration  at  this  altar  and  type  of  the  Eternal.  An  hour  at 
the  foot  of  Niagara  would  amply  reward  a  pilgrimage 
from  Timbuctoo  or  Pekin  ;  and  yet  one  can  scarcely  be- 
gin to  realize  its  grandeur,  immensity,  sublimity,  and 
beauty,  in  less  than  the  lapse  of  days. 

No  place  on  the  civilized  earth  offers  such  attractions 
and  inducements  to  visiters  as  Niagara,  and  they  can 
never  be  fully  known  except  to  those  who  see  them, 
from  the  utter  impossibility  of  describing  such  a  scene  as 
this  wonderful  cataract  presents  :  —  when  motion  can  be 
expressed  by  colour,  there  will  be  some  hope  of  impart- 
ing a  faint  idea  of  it  —  but  until  that  can  be  done,  Niaga. 
ra  must  remain  undescribed. 

The  invalid  may  here  find  rest,  refreshment,  healthful 
exercise,  and  pure  air,  and  that  gentle  exhiliration  of 
mental  and  bodily  spirits,  so  desirable  in  all  cases,  and 
often  so  necessary  to  a  speedy  recovery.  The  convales- 
cent will  here  be  relieved  from  the  languor  of  weakness, 
and  much  of  the  danger  of  relapse,  by  the  pleasurable 
excitement  scenes  of  such  extreme  majesty  must  ever 
produce.    The  business  man,  desirous  of  escaping  for  a 


w^n 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


23 


Inducements  to  Visiters. 


time  the  troublous  round  of  toil  and  care  in  which  he 
commonly  moves,  can  here  enjoy  his  leisure,  and  dignify 
his  relaxation.  The  merchant  or  planter,  flying  for  a 
season  from  the  fev«:r.smitten  cities  and  fields  of  the 
south,  will  here  find  the  safety  he  covets,  and  the  happi. 
ness  he  cannot  but  desire. 

The  man  of  science  can  nowhere  else  find  such  an 
ample  field  for  research,  nor  a  subject  which  would  so 
much  honor  investigation ;  for,  destined  to  be  the  wonder 
of  all  time,  Niagara  is  yet  almost  entirely  unknown, 
though  the  world  is  full  of  its  fame.  What  chronicles  of 
past  ages  may  there  not  be  niched  in  these  eternal  walls  ? 
—  what  monuments  of  mighty  changes  sculptured  on 
these  hoary  rocks?  This  mountain.rent  chasm  is  an  un- 
sealed volume  of  the  past !  Who  has  the  skill  to  divine 
its  mystic  lore  —  to  decipher  its  time-traced  pages  ?  —  Let 
him  come ! 

The  lover  of  nature  can  here  gratify  his  longing,  and 
hold  sweet  communion  with  the  object  of  his  adoration ; 
nay,  more,  he  will  find  here  the  temple  of  his  divinity, 
and  may  stand  beneath  the  very  arches  of  its  altar !  — 
Every  one  who  has  an  eye  to  perceive,  a  heart  to  feel, 
and  a  soul  to  realize  the  grandest  exhibitions  of  creative 
energy,  and  the  mightiest  manifestations  of  Omnipotent 
power,  will  here  find  on  answer  to  his  highest  aspira. 
tions,  a  favorable  response  to  his  desire  for  the  spirit, 
kindling  ccstacy  of  emotion. 

There  are  various  routes  by  which  travellers  from  dis- 
tant parts  of  the  country  approach  the  Falls.  The  prin- 
cipal ones,  however,  terminate  at  Buffalo,  the  com- 
mencement of  steam-navigation  on  lake  Erie ;  or  at  Lew- 


■'  I: 


I 


f 


!^ 


.  i*;; 


i 


■  I    i( 


i    ! 


m 


p      7  * 

frai.lf 


m 


I 


)) 


24 


TOURIST  S    COMPANION 


Routes  to  the  Falls. 


iston,  (or  Queenston,  opposite,)  the  landing  place  of  the 
lake  Ontario,  and  St.  Lawrence  steamers.  From  either 
of  these  places,  it  is  a  short  ride  to  the  Falls,  and  there 
are  different  modes  of  conveyance.  The  traveller  will 
of  course,  suit  his  own  inclination  by  choosing  that  which 
pleases  him  best. 


BUI 
T 

M 

r 


: 


J 


L 

cor 
tioi 
coi 
sin 
ser 
am 
it 

pre 
in^ 

La 
en 
thr- 
by 


^^ 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


25 


CHAPTERII. 

BUFFALO  —  ITi  SITUATION  —  HARBOR  —  CIOHT  HOUSE  —  HISTORY  — 
THE  CITY — ITS  PROSPECTS  —  STEAM  AND  OTHER  BOATS  —  GOVERN- 
MENT  WORKS  —  EXCURSIONS  —  RAIL-ROADS  —  CONVEYANCE  TO  THE 
FALLS. 

"  Queen  or  the  Lakes,  whose  tributary  seas 

Stretch  from  the  froxen  regions  of  the  North 

To  Southern  climates,  where  the  wanton  breexe 

O'er  field  and  forest  goes  rejoicing  forth  : —  '' 

'•  Thou  arttlie  sovereign  City  of  the  Lakes, 
Crowned  and  acknowledged  —  may  thy  fortunes  be 
Vast  as  the  domain  which  thine  empire  takes, 
And  onward,  as  thy  waters  to  the  sea." 

H  E  several  towns,  villagfes,  and  other  im. 
portant  places  bordering  on  the  Niagara 
[Strait,  claim  our  first  attention,  and  will  be 
noticed  in  the  order  of  succession  suggested 
by  their  relative  situation,  beginning  at  the 
commencement  of  the  stream,  and  ending  at  its  termina. 
tion  at  lake  Ontario.  This  arrangement,  following  the 
course  of  the  river,  is  sufficiently  recommended  by  its 
simplicity,  and  natural  harmony  of  parts.  They  form  a 
series  of  links  of  which  the  strait  is  the  connecting  chain; 
and  starting  at  the  lake  from  which  it  depends,  we  trace 
it  down  to  that  which  it  sustains.  Buffalo  is  then  the 
proper  point  of  departure,  and  from  that  city  we  accord, 
ingly  set  forth. 

Buffalo,  the  Queen  of  the  Lakes,  lies  at  the  foot  of 
Lake  Erie,  at  the  mouth  of  Buffalo  Creek,  at  the  efHu. 
ence  of  the  Niagara  River,  or  Strait,  and  at  the  head  of 
the  Erie  Canal.  It  has  an  excellant  harbor,  protected 
by  a  massy  stone  pier,  at  the  extremity  of  which,  there  is 


u 


II 


lit 


f 


i 


I 


i 


/(•Hi' 


!*; 


i 

t ; 


(  : 
\  i 


■!i 


i! 


.1.  Al 


;      1: 


m 


w 


\ 


III 


26 


tourist's  companion 


Buftlilo  City  —  Public  Buildings —  Population. 


a  substantial  stone  light.house,  constructed  of  the  best 
materials,  and  in  the  most  durable  manner  —  a  perfect 
model  of  that  kind  of  architecture. 


BUFFALO  FROM  ABOVE  FORT  ERIE,  U.  C. 

It  was  laid  out  in  1801,  became  a  military  post  in 
1812,was  burnt  by  the  British  in  1813,wa8  incorporated  as 
a  village  in  1823, and  chartered  as  a  city  in  1832,  It  is  di- 
vided into  five  wards,  and  contains  about  three  thousand 
houses,  and  nearly  thirty  thousand  it  habitants.  Most 
of  the  buildings  are  good,  many  of  them  large,  nnd  quite 
a  number  uncommonly  spacious   and  elccant. 

There  are  numerc  s  churches,  two  large  markets,  a 
:'plendid  theatre,  a  fine  court-house,  and  several  other 
public  edifices  of  creditable  size  and  architecture. 

Bufl'alo  is  admirably  situated  for  a  commercial  place 
of  great  importance ;  its  growth  has  been  rapid  beyond 


r 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


27 


Steamboats  on  Lake  Erie  —  Pmnsett  Barracks. 


all  precedent,  and  it  is  destined  to  take  a  high  rank 
among  the  great  cities  of  the  Union.  It  is  principally 
built  upon  an  elevated  sandy  plain;  its  streets  are  broad, 
straight  and  dry,  and  some  of  its  noblest  avenues  radiate 
from  a  central  point  on  Main-street.  An  air  of  bustle 
and  business  prevades  it,  especially  in  the  summer  season , 
by  which  is  likened  to  many  a  city  of  much  older  date, 
and  of  far  greater  pretensions.  The  climate  is  highly 
salubrious,  the  atmosphere  fresh  and  invigorating,  and  it 
has  few  if  any  local  sources  of  disease. 

About  sixty  steamboats  —  some  of  them  literally  float- 
ing places  —  a  large  number  of  propellers,  ships,  brigs, 
schooners,  and  sloops,  and  canal  boats  almost  innumer. 
able,  arrive  at  and  depart  from  Buffalo,  making  regular 
trips,  and  generally  freighted  with  produce,  merchandise 
and  passengers  io  the  utmost  extent  of  their  capacity 
and  accommodations.  Between  this  city,  there  is  a  con- 
tinuous and  unbroken  line  of  Rail  Road  reaching  from 
Boston  to  Buflalo. 

Poinsett  Barracks,  an  extensive  and  commodious 
cantonment  for  troops,  occupy  a  conspicuous  and  com- 
manding position  near  the  upper  or  northern  limit  of  the 
city.  Several  companies  of  infantry  are  stationed  there, 
who  are  paraded  weekly  for  manoeuvre  and  review  ;  on 
field  days,  citizens  and  strangers  in  considerable  num- 
bers attend,  and  seemingly  take  great  interest  in 
these  materials  display.  Government  is  now  erecting  a 
strong  fortification  on  the  high  lands,  at  the  northwest 
corner  of  the  city,  for  the  protection  of  Buffalo  and 
Black  Rock,  and  the  harbors  of  both,  and  also  to  secure 
the  command  of  the  river. 


1 1 


'\ 


w 


M 


\l 


Hf 


:,<M^ 


m, 


m 


■ii 

f 

I  f 


I. 


M    i 


yi: 


lii 


IIP 


fc  ^'-^t 


^■,;ii 


mt; 


<    ;'  ■ 


28 


tourist's  companion 


Seneca  Indians — Rail  Roads. 


Excursions  from  Buffalo  to  the  Seneca  Indian  village 
and  to  the  ruins  of  old  fort  Erie,  are  not  uncommon 
with  both  citizens  and  strangers.  They  are  the  only  ; 
places  of  much  resort  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
place.  To  the  former,  it  is  a  pleasant  ride  of  three  miles, 
to  the  latter,  a  delightful  sail  of  about  the  same  distance. 

Buffalo  is  connected  with  the  Falls,  distant  twenty-two 
miles,  by  a  rail-road,  on  which  \he  cars,  propelled  by 
steam,  make  two  trips  a  day ;  leaving  the  former  place 


at  nine  in  the  morning,  and  at  five  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon. With  the  ferry  at  Black  Rock,  two  miles  distant,, 
there  is  also  rail-road  communication,  and  the  cars  leave 
every  half  hour.  The  depot  for  both  is  on  the  Terrace, 
at  its  junction  with  Pearl-street,  and  fronting  both  the 
Western  Hotel  and  the  United  States  Hotel. 

Steamboats  leave  the  dock  every  morning  for  the  Falls, 
and  return  the  same  day.  They  land  passengers  both  at 
Chippewa  and  Schlosser,  where  carriages  are  in  waiting 
to  take  them  over  the  two  or  three  remaining  miles.— 
Travellers  can  therefore  choose  between  this  mode  of 


n 


B.>li!^m;l 


^H 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


29 


River  Route  to  the  Falls. 


conveyance  and  the  cars.  Both  routes  are  pleasant,  and 
it  may  be  advisable  to  go  by  one,  and  return  by  the  other. 
By  adopting  this  plan,  every  part  of  the  beautiful  river 
and  forest  scenery  above  the  Falls  will  be  seen  ;  nor  will 
Chippewa,  Navy -Island,  or  Schlosser — now  memorable 
places  —  be  overlooked;  or  a  splendid  view  from  the 
river,  of  the  rapids,  and  islands,  be  lost. 


^  'J:%J-: 


.1'! 


a 


¥'l 


it 


I 


( 


/. 


I' 


il' 


i   > 


':'.  31 


* 


r 


\ 


4 

•i  ■' 

i 

: 

t 
■i 

'     i 

1 
.' 

1 

I 

• 

i) 


30 


TOURIST  S   COMPANION 


CHAPTERIM. 

FORT  ERIE  —  SITUATION  AND  ARCHITECTURE  —  SURRENDER  —  SIEGE — 
RUINS  —  WATERLOO  —  BLACK  ROCK  —  RIVALRY  —  GENERAL  PORTER 
—  TONAWANDA  —  VILLAGE  AND  CREEK  —  CATFISH  AND  AGUES  — 
SCHLOSSEU  LANDING  —  CHIPPEWA  —  CREEK  —  BATTLE-GROUND  — 
FORT  SCHLOSSER. 

"  In  crumbling  ruins  on  the  lake-laved  shore, 

Its  shatterred  walls  and  bastions  ivied  o'er, 

Stands  a  stern  iurtress  that  has  oft  withstood 

The  fiery  brunt  of  battle,  blushing  blood  ; 

Its  curtains,  parapets,  and  ramparts  gray, 

War-wasted  and  corroded  bj'  decay. 

On  frowning  battlement  and  salient  stone. 

Has  time  the  unfinished  work  of  foemen  done ; 

And  creeping  plants,  and  blooming  wild-flowers  wave, 

Where  floated  proudly  once  the  banner  brave." 

PPOSITE  to  Buffalo,  at  the  efflux  of 
the  river,  and  on  the  Canada  side,  stand 
the  ruins  of  Fort  Erie.  This  fortification, 
originally  built  by  the  French  about  a  cen- 
tury ago,  was  a  small  but  extremely  well 
planned  and  constructed  post,  and  must  have  been  con. 
sidered  of  no  little  importance  by  those  who  were  at  the 
trouble  of  its  erection.  All  its  defences  were  laid  out 
and  arranged  in  the  exactest  style  of  art;  and  the  ma- 
sonry bears  witness,  even  at  this  distant  date,  to  the  soli- 
dity with  which  it  was  put  together.  The  curtains  and 
other  walls  were  grouted  with  a  cement  of  water-lime, 
evincing  the  greatest  care  for  durability,  and  none  for 
expense.  The  bastions  were  all  flanked  with  this  admi- 
rable  stone  work,  and  the  whole  surrounded  by  a  deep 
ditch,  further  strengthened  by  pointed  stakes,  firmly  and 
thickly  planted  in  the  fosse,  incHning  outward,  and  rising 


>> 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


31 


Fort  Erie —  Historical  Account. 


just  above  the  water,  with  which  it  was  nearly  filled. 
The  fort  was  evidently  designed  by  an  able  engineer,  and 
might  have  been  regarded  as  a  miniature  model  of  mili- 
tary architecture.  Every  avenue  of  approach,  was  enfil. 
aded  or  exposed  to  a  cross  fire,  and  nothing  seems  to 
have  been  omitted  that  could  contribute  to  the  annoyance 
of  a  besieging  foe,  or  the  protection  of  its  little  garrison. 
By  the  Indians,  it  must  have  been  deemed  impregnable. 


RUINS  OF  FORT  ERIE  U.  C. 

P'ort  Erie  was,  during  the  late  war.  the  scene  of  some 
of  the  most  memorable  exploits  of  the  Republican  army. 
It  was  surrendered  on  the  third  of  July,  at  the  first  sum- 
mons, to  General  Brown,  who,  with  a  force  of  five  thou, 
sand  men,  invaded  Canada  in  1814,  by  Major  Buck,  the 
officer  in  command ;  and  the  British  garrison,  consisting 
of  one  hundred  and  thirty-seven  men  of  the  Eighth,  or 
King's  Regiment,  became  prisoners  of  war.  The  troops 
under  General  Brown,  after  advancing  upon  Fort  George, 
and  fighting  the  celebrated  battles  of  Chippewa  and 
Niagara,  fell  back  upon  this  point,  and  sustained  a  siege, 
remarkable  for  the  gallantry  with  which  it  was  pressed 
and  repelled.     Subsequently,   the  British  forces  having 


,i  f\- 


L  r. 


1.1 


1' 


fi. 


I. 


^   11 


1. 


t    '!( 


'I 


I) 


32 


TOURIST  S  COMPANION 


Waterloo— Black  Rock. 


retired  to  winter  quarters,  the  fort  was  abandoned  and 
demolished,  the  campaign  ended,  and  the  American  army 
having  gained  nothing  but  glory  by  the  invasion,  returned 
to  their  own  country. 

The  fortification  is  now  entirely  in  ruins,  deserted  and 
desolate ;  but  its  ancient  defences  may  still  be  traced  out, 
^and  the  little  hillocks  that  dot  the  plain  below,  each  mark- 
ing a  soldier's  grave,  attest  the  obstinacy  with  which  the 
attack  was  urged,  and  the  assault  repulsed. 

Waterloo  is  a  pleasant  little  village  on  the  bank  of  the 
river  a  mile  and  a  half  below  Fort  Erie,  and  opposite  to 
Black  Rock,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  the  ferry.  It 
has  probably  sixty  or  seventy  houses,  and  four  or  five 
hundred  inhabitants.  From  this  place  to  the  Falls,  the 
road  runs  along  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  the  scenery  is 
extremely  picturesque.  Horses  and  carriages  may  be 
had  for  excursions  to  Fort  Erie  or  the  Falls,  on  livery,  at 
reasonable  rates. 

The  village  of  Black  Rock  on  the  American  side  of 
the  strait,  and  two  miles  below  Buffalo,  comprises  some 
two  hundred  houses,  and  contains  about  two  thousand 
inhabitants,  it  is  composed  of  two  divisions  or  hamlets, 
separated  by  the  distance  of  one  mile.  The  lower  vil- 
lage is  therefore  three  miles  from  Buflalo,  and  is  com. 
monly  called  **  The  Dam,"  from  its  vicinity  to  a  structure 
of  that  kind,  erected  to  raise  the  water  for  the  benefit  of 
the  harbor  and  canal.  The  pier  is  two  miles  long,  and 
commencing  at  Squaw  Island,  terminates  at  a  small  island 
or  reef  called  Bird  Island,  opposite  Buffalo.  By  means 
of  the  pier  and  dam,  the  water  in  the  harbor  is  raised 
several  feet  above  the  river,  thus  creating  water-power  to 


1 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


33 


Harbor  at  Black  Rock. 


an  extent  almost  unlimited.    There  are  a  number  of  fine 
mills  in  constant  operation. 

Black  Rock  was  formerly  the  rival  of  Buffalo,  and 
maintained  for  several  years  a  sort  of  doubtful  ascendan- 
cy. In  those  days,  the  harbor  at  Black  Rock  was  thought 
by  many  people  to  be  far  superior  to  that  of  its  competitor; 
and  large  appropriations  were  obtained  for  it,  almost 
before  any  attempts  were  made  at  improving  the  port  of 
Buffalo.  But  the  current  of  the  river,  and  the  dangers 
of  the  channel  from  large  sunken  rocks,  difficulties  that 
could  not  be  entirely  overcome,  gave  its  rival  a  decided 
advantage,  and  prevented  its  becoming  a  place  of  much 
business.     It  is,  however,  destined  to   no  inconsiderable 


I     ? 


importance  as  a  manufacturing  town.  It  was  founded 
about  the  same  time  with  Buffalo,  and  was  burnt  by  the 
enemy  in  1813.  The  principal  ferry  over  the  river  is  at 
the  upper  village,  and  is  connected  with  Buffalo  by  rail- 
road. The  Niagara  Falls  Rail-Road  runs  through  both 
divisions  of  the  place. 

The  village  of  Tonawanda  is  nine  miles  below  Black 
Rock,  and  lies   on  both  sides  of  the  creek  of  the  same 

name,  at  its  confluence  with  the   strait.     At  this  place, 
B 


«     ' 


4 


)\ 


t 


1:  t 


H  ■■'! 


iSl 


fl 


34 


TOURIST'S  COMPANION 


Village  of  Tonawanda —  White-Haven  —  Schlosser. 


the  Erie  Canal,  leaving  the  river,  enters  the  creek,  which 
it  follows  to  Pendleton,  twelve  miles  distant.  Tonawan- 
da is  a  pleasant  thriving  village,  and  contains  about 
twelve  hundred  inhabitants.  White-Haven,  mills  and 
hamlet,  occupying  the  site  of  the  proposed  Jewish  city  of 
Arrarat,  founded  by  the  soi  disant  Grand  High  Priest, 
M.  M.  Noah,  then  a  Judge  of  Israel,  but  now  a  judge  of 
the  Court  of  Sessions,  New- York,  is  on  Grand-Island, 
directly  opposite. 

Tonawanda,  the  aboriginal  name  of  the  creek,  is  an 
Indian  word,  signifying  "  stoift  running  water."  There 
was  doubtless  a  touch  of  native  irony  in  this  appellation, 
for  the  creek  is  a  deep  sluggish  stream.  It  has  been 
dammed  over  for  the  benefit  of  the  canal,  by  which  a 
beautiful  cascade  is  formed.  It  is  about  eighty  yards  in 
width,  is  crossed  by  a  long  wooden  bridge,  on  which  the 
rail-road  passes,  and  is  the  boundary  between  the  coun. 
ties  of  Erie  and  Niagara.  The  place  is  somewhat  cele. 
brated  for  its  cat-fish  and  agues,  both  of  which  are  said 
to  be  caught  here  in  great  abundance.  We  are  by  no 
means  satisfied  that  this  dignity  is  quite  deserved  ;  if  true, 
however,  it  enjoys  a  monopoly  of  the  honor  and  profit. 

ScHLOSSER  Landing  is  nine  miles  below  Tonawanda, 
and  two  miles  above  the  Falls.  An  old  store-house  and 
a  tavern  are  the  only  buildings  at  this  point.  It  is  the 
landing  place  for  steam-boats  from  Buflfalo,  and  visiters  to 
the  Falls  are  conveyed  thence  in  carriages.  This  place 
is  celebrated  as  being  the  spot  where  the  Caroline  lay  at 
the  time  of  her  destri^ction.  Navy-Island  is  opposite, 
and    Grand-Island,  the  Canada   Shore,  Chippewa,   the 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


35 


Chippewa  —  termination  of  river  navigation. 


head  of  the  rapids,  and  Iris-Island  are  all  within  view. — 
The  rail.road  runs  along  the  river  but  a  few  rods  from 
the  shore. 


SCHLOSSER    LANDINC. 

Chippewa  lies  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  at  the  mouth 
of  Chippewa  Creek,  two  and  a  half  miles  above  the 
Falls.  With  the  single  exception  of  Waterloo,  it  is  the 
only  village  on  the  Canada  side  above  the  cataract.  It 
is  a  flourishing  place  —  a  port  of  entry  —  and  has  a  very 
tolerable  harbor.  The  stream  is  spanned  by  a  wooden 
draw-bridge  one  hundred  yards  long,  and  is  navigable 
about  twenty  miles  up,  for  vessels  of  two  or  three  hun- 
dred  tons  burthen.  Steamboats  from  Buffalo  land  here, 
and  the  journey  to  the  Falls  is  continued  in  carriages,  or 
by  rail-road.  The  population  of  the  village  is  estimated 
at  two  thousand  persons.  The  view  of  the  rapids,  and 
scenery  above  the  Falls,  is  very  fine.  The  battle-ground 
is  two  miles  above,  on  the  Buffalo  road. 

Chippewa  is  the  lowest  point  to  which  the  upper  por- 
tion of  the  Niagara  strait  is  navigable.  From  Queenston 
to  this  place,  goods  are  carried  by  land,  and  the  road  has 


i 


V 


I  '   I 


ii 


i'  » 


II 


<i 


J 

i 

I* 

■  i 

J, 

^  t 

t 

i 

Si 

.  t 

■;    11  : 

36 


TOURIST  S    COMPANION 


Streams  —  Fort  Schlosser. 


from  the  old  French  times,  been  called  the  Portage.  The 
two  villages  are  now  connected  by  a  rail-road,  but  recent- 
ly completed.  It  was  at  Chippewa  that  the  troops  and 
munitions  of  war  collected  to  oppose  the  Navy-Island 
patriots  ;  and  here  the  expedition  against  the  Caroline 
was  fitted  out  and  despatched,  which  resulted  in  the  death 
of  Durfee,  and  the  destruction  of  that  vessel. 

The  only  streams  of  any  considerable  size  that  flow  in- 
to the  Niagara  river,  are  the  Tonawanda  and  Chippewa 
creeks.  Of  the  former  we  have  before  spoken,  and  to 
the  latter,  no  particular  interest  attaches.  It  is  about 
twenty  rods  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  forty  or  fifty  miles  in 
length.  About  ten  miles  of  the  Welland  Canal,  which 
affords  a  water  communication,  navigable  for  vessels  of 
one  hundred  and  fifty  tons  burthen,  between  the  Lakes 
Erie  and  Ontario,  and  formed  by  this  stream.  No  small 
portion  of  the  rich  western  trade,  finds  its  way  to  the 
North  and  East,  through  this  canal,  in  the  construction 
of  which,  the  people  of  Canada  have  shown  a  spirit  of 
enterprise,  that  is  like  to  be  well  rewarded,  and  may 
eventually  lead  to  other  important  works  of  internal  im- 
provement. 

Fort  Schlosser,  or  lathcr  its  remain!?,  now  scarcely  to 
be  distinguished,  is  a  mile  below  the  Landing,  on  the 
American  side.  It  was  a  mere  stockade,  built  in  the  old 
French  war,  upon  lines  slightly  raised  above  the  river 
bunks.  The  site  of  the  fort  is  on  a  gentle  elevation,  be- 
twecn  the  road  and  the  river,  in  a  cultivated  field,  where 
the  plough  and  the  harrow  have  done  their  work  so  well, 
that  hardly  a  trace  of  this  once  military  post  is  now  to  be 
discovered.         -    . 


it 


^'.> 


•;*    i^i.  ai" 


f:'i- 


; . .  *%   ;% 


•■,0 


!%y:VJ'*.  :i, foi 


■:■%'- ''^'■^■^ 


I    '       f 


;      i 


,■  i" 


]\ 


^\ 


ti  M 


■1 1  \ 


:  I,! 


;-*»'■ 


*   ; 


r* 


-fl. 


I 


1.    -I 

IJ 

I  'ti  i^ 


II 


f  ■  O  !■  T     n  I  n 


HBH^HBMH! 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


37 


CHAPTER    IV. 

VILLAGE  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS — MOUNTAIN  PLAIN — LEWISTON— QUEENS- 
TON  —  YOUNOSTOWN  —  NIAGARA  VILLAGE  —  FORT  GEORGE  —  FORT 
MAS8ASAUGA  —  FORT  NIAGARA  —  TRADITIONS  —  INDIAN  INCURSIONS 
—  SURPRISAL  —  REPAIRS — ADDITIONS  AND  ARMAMENT. 

"  High -seated  on  the  crests  of  clifts  sublime. 

Like  eaglets  on  the  mountain  tops  of  time, 

In  unawakened  energy  repose 

Cities  in  embryo  —  between  which  flows, 

Bown  the  dread  cataract,  and  through  the  chasm. 

With  ever-angry  rush  and  many  a  spasm, 

A  mighty  torrent  —  ocean  like  in  size, 

Bounded  by  frowning  walls  that  shake  with  dread 

At  each  vibration  of  its  earthquake  tread  1*^ 

H  E  village  of  Niagara  Falls  lies  just  above, 

and  adjacent  to,  the  Cataract,  on  the  Ame- 

rican  side.     It  was  laid  out  in  1805  by  Judge 

Porter,  who  is   principal  proprietor  of  the 

place,  and  of  the  Islands  at  and   near  the 
precipice. 

The  village  of  the  Niagara  Falls  has  several  hotels, 
also  two  saw.millSf  a  grist-mill,  a  woolen.factory,  two 
machine  shops,  araii-road.car  manufactory,  and  shops  for 
almost  every  variety  of  the  mechanic  arts.  There  is  also 
a  Bowling  Alley,  where  visitors  can  mingle  exercise  with 
amusement;  and  a  Public  Garden  laid  out  in  good  taste, 
containing  a  variety  of  flowers  and  shrubbery,  and  a 
place  for  the  exhibition  of  fire-works,  which  are  frequent- 
ly displayed  on  proper  and  public  occasions.  The  streets 
are  broad  and  regular,  but  unpaved,  and  therefore  damp 
and  disagreeable  after  heavy  rains;  but  as  the  soil  is  of 
a  sandy  kind,  a  abort  interval  generally  suffices  to  render 
them  dry  and  pleasant.  •  i       ('.•>)'! 


(    ; 


I     : 


M 


'!    ^  \ 


^MT 


I 


I  il  -ti 


11     • 


1    1. 


I 


1) 


38 


tourist's  companion 


Canada  side  —  Barnett's  Museum — Troops. 


No  place  on  the  broad  platform  of  God's  footstool  can 
be  more  healthy  and  inviting  than  this,  and  it  is  a  most 
desirable  location  for  a  permanent  or  summer  residence. 
Fine  groves  of  the  native  forest  trees  are  scattered  about ; 
and  the  Islands,  on  which  not  a  stick  is  allowed  to  be  cut, 
affords  the  most  delightful  retreats  that  can  be  imagined 
or  wished.  Nature  seems  to  have  bestowed  every  advan- 
tage and  every  attraction  upon  the  vicinity  of  her  master- 
work,  as  if  to  allure  mankind  to  a  contemplation  of  her 
beauty  and   power. 

On  the  Canada  side  are  the  City  of  the  Falls,  and  vil- 
lage of  the  Clifton. 

The  Museum  of  Mr.  Barnett,  is  a  short  distance 
above.  This  gentleman  has  prepared  and  collected  a 
very  great  variety  of  valuable  and  rare  specimens  in  na- 
tural history,  and  has,  after  devoting  years  to  this  object, 
succeded  in  bringing  his  museum  to  a  high  degree  of  per- 
fection.  It  is  admiriably  arranged,  contains  almost 
innumerable  unique  and  curious  articles,  both  native  and 
foreign,  and  would  do  credit  to  any  place. 

A  large  white  building,  with  colonnades  in  front,  about 
one  fourth  of  a  mile  uhove  the  Falls,  formerly  kept  as  a 
hotel,  when  it  was  called  the  Ontario  House,  is  now  oc- 
cupied as  barracks  by  the  Sixty.Seventh  Regiment  of  In- 
fantry, which  is  stationed  here,  under  the  immediate  com. 
mandof  Major  Brooke.  The  troops  are  paraded  for  re- 
view once  a  week,  on  which  occasions  the  showy  uniform 
and  high  military  discipline  of  this  veteran  corps,  manou. 
vering  to  the  excellent  music  of  its  fine  regimental  band, 
present  a  scene  of  combined  attractions  that  few  care  to 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


39 


City  of  the  Falls— Clifton. 


neglect.  The  band  is  often  allowed,  and  especially  on 
clear  moonlight  evenings,  to  assemble  on  the  bank  of  the 
river  near  the  cataract,  and  blend  the  stirring  tones  of 
martial  harmonies  with  the  grand  diapason  of  Niagara's 
thunder-breathed  hymn.  The  effect  is  indescribable, and 
visiters  gather  round  and  listen  with  an  interest  seldom  if 
ever  so  deeply  awakened  in  their  bosoms, —  but  when  be- 
fore did  they  hear  a  human  accompaniment  to  the  sublime 
anthems  of  Nature  !  " 

The  City  of  the  Falls,  and  Clifton  are  both  as  yet  small 
places,  and  have  probably  an  aggregate  population  of 
three  hundred  souls.  Our  remarks  upon  the  salubrity  of 
Niagara  Falls  village,  and  its  desirability  for  permanent 
and  summer  residences,  apply,  with  equal  force  to  these 
places.  In  fact  the  whole  vicinity  of  the  cataract  on  both 
sides  of  the  river  is  pleasant  and  healthful  in  the  highest 
degree,  and  must  in  a  few  years  attract  men  of  wealth 
and  standing  to  become  its  constant  or  occasional  inhabi. 


tants. 

••  •  '.)"• 
'« (  , " . 

.  ".  Ml" 


I!! 


\\f  '     V'i 


"  Here  ends  the  plain  —  opposing  heights  look  down 
On  river,  valley,  forest,  lake  and  town :  — 
Bright  river  glancing  on  in  silver  sheen, 
Through  valley  mantled  o'er  with  emerald  green ; 
Forest,  in  whose  embowered  and  sylvan  shade. 
The  Indian  huntei  wooed  the  dark-haired  maid, 
Neai  the  fair  lake  on  which  his  light  canoe. 
O'er  foam-crowned  waves  in  arrow  swiftness  flew, 
Ere  from  afar  the  invading  pale-face  came, 
And  hardly  left  the  red-man  grave  or  name." 


:</- 


'^■! 


About  seven  miles  below  the  Falls,  the  elevated  plain, 
through  which  the  cataract  has  been  for  sources  of  ages 
cutting  and  tearing  its  hard.won  way,  and  having  as 
yet  accomplished  but  one  fourth  of  its  appointed  task, 


1 


,.  I'ri 


■"ij 


■it 


1 

■  i 

i  1  •  : 

;  t 


{ <M 


'.■-  li 


I    I ' 


y 

it  11 

I 


t  ..li^ 


i! 


uii 


N: '     ; 


40 


tourist's  companion. 


Villages  of  Lewiston  and  Queenston. 


suddenly  terminates,  and  looks  down  from  a  height 
of  nearly  four  hundred  feet  upon  the  villages  below,  the 
winding  stream,  the  smiling  vale,  the  rival  forts,  the  dark- 
est forests,  and  the  lovely  lake.  Then,  leaving  the  river, 
it  stretches  away  to  the  right  lo  Lockport,  where,  through 
a  deep  artificial  chasm,  and  a  magnificent  pile  of  mason, 
ry,  forming  a  double  range  of  locks,  the  Erie  Canal  de- 
scends the  mountain  ridge  by  slow  and  measured,  though 
Titanic  steps ;  and  onward  still  to  the  Genesee  river, 
whose  shrunken  waters,  as  if  afraid  to  take  the  fearful 
le.r_  .  t  «  hich  Niagara  thrills  and  maddens,  plunge  down 
succeir.:ji  cdgcs  and  hide  in  the  lake  below  ;  and  thence 
still  on  and  on  till  the  rock-piled  plain  is  lost  in  the  sub- 
lime '.. nrc'^8  iTjf  the  Alleghany  mountains.  The  same 
great  plain  oi  ridge  i>assing  off  to  the  left,  loses  itself  at 
last  in  the  distant  hills  and  valleys  of  the  west. 

Under  the  quiet  shelter  of  these  great  heights  —  the 
mountains  of  Father  Hennepin  —  and  on  opposite  sides 
of  the  river,  which  seems  now  to  smile  and  gladden  at 
its  escape  from  the  dark  rock-bound  channel,  through 
which  it  writhed  and  struggled  like  a  wounded  snake,  re- 
pose the  peaceful  villages  of  Lewiston  and  Queenston, 
shaking  hands  across  the  deep  water  like  twin  brothers, 
by  the  ferry  that  connects  them.  These  are  the  landing 
places  of  the  Ontario  and  St.  Lawrence  steamers  ;  and 
this  the  highest  point  of  river  navigation  below  the  cata- 
ract of  Niagara.  Both  villages  are  connected  with  the 
Falls  by  rail-road. 

Lewiston  presents  the  pleasing  and  lovely  appearance 
which  characterises  so  many  American  villages,  and  is 
the  subject  of  such  common  remark  by  native  and  foreign 


I 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


41 


Lewiston  Landing — Queenston. 


tourists.  An  air  of  subdued  softness  and  religious-like 
repose  seems  to  hover  upon  and  hallow  them  all.  The 
village  was  named  in  honor  of  Governor  Lewis,  in  1805, 
and  was  destroyed  by  the  British  forces  in  1813.     At  the 


LEWISTON  LANDING. 


close  of  the  war  it  was  rebuilt,  and  has  since  gradually 
increased  to  its  present  size;  but  its  growth  has  been 
extremely  languid,  and  it  numbers  only  about  eighty 
dwellings,  and  six  or  seven  hundred  inhabitants.  It  is, 
however,  a  pretty  and  flourishing  place,  and  has  a  fine 
academy,  one  or  two  churches,  and  a  very  excellent  ho. 
tel,  called  the  Frontier  House.  The  site  of  Fort  Green, 
and  the  Five-mile  Meadows,  interesting  from  their  con- 
nection with  reminiscences  of  border  strife,  are  both  near 
the  village,  and  within  the  township  of  Lewiston. 

QuEENSTON,  opposite,  is  a  small  quaint-looking  and  ir- 
regular village.  It  contains  forty  or  fifty  dwellings,  two 
taverns,  and  about  four  hundred  inhabitants.     The  moun- 


•( 


i 


n 


Tiff  TB! 


yi 


r 


Ur 


r      r  I 


ii 

\m    ^ 

i:| 

m 

»'  ■ 

111 

1' 

i^-' 


42 


tourist's  companion 


Youngstown  —  Niagara. 


tain  ridge  portage  commenced  here,  and  terminated  at 
Chippewa.  The  two  places  are  now  connected,  as  be- 
fore observed,  by  a  rail-road,  via  the  Falls. 

Thirteen  miles  from  the  Falls,  and  six  from  Lewiston, 
on  the  American  shore,  stands  the  village  of  Youngs, 
town,  a  pleasantly  situated,  quiet  little  place,  remarkable 
for  nothing  but  its  vicinity  to  the  forts  George  and  Nia- 
gara ;  and  for  having  been  the  first  village  burnt  by  the 
enemy,  in  retahation  for  the  destruction  of  Newark.  It 
has  about  forty  houses,  and  perhaps  three  hundred  inhab. 
itants. 

On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  stream,  the  town  of  Nia- 
gara,—  formerly  Newark,  and  erst  Ontario  —  and  Fort 
George  are  situate.  Niagara  is  the  oldest,  and,  if  we 
except  Buffalo,  the  largest  place  on  the  river.  It  con- 
tains many  fine  dwellings,  and  has  a  population  of  about 
three  thousand  persons.  Ship  building  is  carried  on  here 
to  some  extent,  and  there  is  a  chartered  Dry  Dock  Com- 
pany,  with  banking  privileges,  whose  works  are  both  im- 
portant and  valuable.  Formerly,  a  good  deal  of  the 
commerce  of  the  interior,  centred  in  this  place,  but  the 
principal  trade  has  since  been  diverted  to  Hamilton  and 
other  more  enterprising,  or  better  situated  villages.  New*. 
ark,  as  it  was  then  called,  was  burnt  by  the  retreating 
American  forces  under  General  McClure,  in  1813,  and 
was  revenged  immediately  after,  by  the  destruction  oi 
every  settlement  on  the  United  States*  Niagara  frontier. 
Fort  George,  an  earth-built  fortress,  lies  just  above  the 
village.  It  was  considered  of  consequence  as  a  military 
poet  during  the  war,  and  following  the  fluctuation  of  the 


I: 


.1  I. 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


43 


Forts  at  mouth  of  the  river. 


contest,  was  alternately  in  the  possesion  of  both  belliger- 
ent armies.  It  is  now  deserted  and  dismantled,  and  is 
fast  crumbling  to  ruins.         •;  •      r    n?  . 

Fort  Massasauga  stands  on  the  extreme  point  of  the 
peninsula,  at  the  junction  of  the  river  Niagara  with 
Lake  Ontario;  and  is  one  and  a  half  miles  below  Fort 
George,  on  the  same  side  of  the  Strait.  It  is  construct- 
ed of  earth,  with  a  large  stone  block  house  of  a  septagon- 
al  form,  in  the  centre,  which  at  present  mounts  a  single 
cannon  of  twenty.four  lbs.  calibre.  This  fort  is  manned 
and  garisoned ,  is  kept  in  good  repair,  and  is  said  to  be  a 
very  strung  post. 


"2*^si-55g^-,^fe_l~; -> 


FORT   MASSASAUQA. 


Fort  Niagara  on  the  American  shore,  occupies  a  sim- 
ilar  position,  and  its  defences  are  washed  by  the  river  on 
one  side,  and  by  the  lake  on  the  other.  The  French, 
English,  and  American  flags  have  successively  floated 
over  its  ramparts,  and  has  probably  experienced  a  greater 
variety  of  fortunes,  and  been  a  silent  witness  of  more 
striking  and  diversified  events,  than  any  other  place  in 
North  America,  unless  perhaps,  Quebec.    It  was  original. 


-W^-^WPW  j(H,  I  .  ifwi 


J      ! 


'i  1 

;  1 

.  {' 


« 


j:  r 


!     ji| 


'.    i 


111 


■k' 


it'' I' 


.  i 


44 


tourist's  companion 


Fort  Niagara  —  Ancient  Buildings. 


\y  settled  in  1678  by  a  French  officer,  M.  de  La  Salle, 
who  obtained  permission  of  the  Indians  to  build  a  store, 
house,  seduced  them  to  join  in  a  hunt,  and  in  their  ab- 
sense,  erected  a  fortress.  On  their  return,  they  were  en- 
raged  at  the  deception,  but  he  found  means  to  soften  their 
anger  while  he  stengthened  his  position,  and  ultimately 
to  pacify  their  resentment.  From  this  point  the  savages 
were  thence  accustomed  to  sally  forth  upon  the   English 


'-jiW'-f-'iflt-r,  '/-;•■: 


rORT  NIAGARA. 


settlements,  and  hither  they  returned  after  completing 
the  work  of  slaughter  and  spoliation,  to  receive  the  wa- 
ges of  murder  and  robbery. 

In  1725  the  most  ancient  of  the  present  buildings  were 
erected,  and  massive  piles  of  masonry  attest  the  impor- 
tance which  the  French  attached  to  the  place.  There  are 
many  traditions  concerning  the  history  of  the  fort,  some 
of  which  point  to  crimes  of  the  blackest  character,  and 
acts  of  the  most  brutal  ferocity.  If  true,  they  should  be 
suffered  to  sleep  in  oblivion  —  if  false,  it  were  idle  to  re- 
peat them.    At  this  distance  of  time,  the  true  could  not 


ik 


I 


"T^ 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


45 


Sir  William  Johnson  —  Historical  Sketch. 


K>  stinguished  from  the  false,  nor  the  false  be  divested 
•I  psi  obability.  It  was  an  age  of  excess  and  venality,  of 
cfvf  y.ission  and  endurance.  The  despotism  in  which 
♦«wi&  revolting  outrages  were  bom,  —  if  indeed  they  had 
Wf*?.j,  has  passed  away ;  let  the  memory  of  the  errors 
ill:     )ffences  it  produced,  share  its  tomb. 

Sis!  William  Johnson  obtained  possession  of  the  fort 
,a  .rf59,  it  is  said,  by  fraud ;  but  the  treachery  has  never 
ht'^vii  proved.  In  that  year,  the  magazine  was  built,  and 
(.>!iif!*  defences  erected.     During  the  revolutionary  war,  it 


1. 


me  again  the  scene  of  savage  preparation  and  of  sav- 

a^     oy.     Here  the  murdering  band  of  Brandt,  Butler.and 

I',     son,  equipped   and  painted  themselves  for  the  work 

./  *  itchery  and  blood,  and  set  out  in  their  inhuman  ex. 

v«      ions  against  the  American  settlements.     The  mas- 

A'&i;   js,  of  Cherry- Valley  and  Wyoming  tell   the  story  ol 

•':<f  i','  success   and  barbarity ;  the   archives  of  England 

.  •'  '  1  perhaps  relate  their  reward.     Fort  Niagara  was  the 

v.    ess  of   their  pow -wows  and  scalp.dances ;  probably 

f'(     icir  tortures  and  sacrifices.    Here  there  were  incit- 

<>f.  :  t  make   incursions  against  the   defenceless,  to  kill, 

^xjfvt,  and  destroy ;  and   here  they  found  sheher  and  pro- 

<(?'    on   from   the  ^nger  of  the   indignant,  and  the  ven- 

[!yf'uif.ce  of  the  injured.    When  there  were  none  to  oppose, 

\\h      setoff  to  assassinate  ;  and  when  they  were   pressed 

I  h;     le  foe,   they  sneaked   back  to  be  defended.     Malig- 

ftuf.^,  but  not  manly  —  vindictive,  but  not  open  —  cruel, 

?>r     lot  bold,  their  alliance  added  nothing  to  the  glory  ol 

!i'    sh  arms,  while  their  acknowledged  employments  fas- 

i<ji    d  an  eternal  stigma  upon   the  British  name.    But  in 


tr 


\ 


i :. .  V 


I) 

m 


i    1 


if 

Ml 


',  I 


■w 


p'il 


.'  • 


I*    i! 


;i  t 


46 


tourist's  companion 


Surrender  of  Fort  Niagara. 


spite  of  all  the  arts,  arms,  and  alliances  of  England,  A. 
merica  achieved  her  independence,  and  in  1797  fort 
Niagara  was  given  up  to  the  United  States,  never  again 
to  be  the  scene  of  such  unhallowed  festivities,  and  de- 
moniac triumphs,  as  disgraced  it  under  the  lily  and  lion 
banners  of  its  former  occupants.     During  the  1^+fl  war  it 


was  surprised   by  the  British,  through  the  trea 


y,  as 


supposed,  of  the  American  commander,  Capt.  Leonard, 
and  a  part  of  the  garrison  put  to  the  sword.  It  remained 
in  their  possession  until  the  peace  of  1815,  when  it  was 
again  surrendered  to  the  United  States. 

Recent  events  on  the  frontier,  and  the  critical  state  of 
our  foreign  relations,  have  called  the  attention  of  Govern- 
ment  to  the  importance  of  Fort  Niagara  as  a  military 
post,  and  large  appropriations  have  been  expended  under 
the  direction  of  able  engineers,  in  strengtheninsf  its  de- 
fences, and  adding  to  their  number.  These  are  v  near, 
ly  completed  ;  its  garrison  and  part  of  its  armm.  it  have 
already  arrived,  and  in  the  event  of  another  war,  it  will 
be  found  no  easy  matter  to  reduce  it  either  by  seige  or  as- 
sault. 


,r.i'. 


5'<  >l> 


.(    «!.• 


At 


if 


•  \  \  tt 


M-i 


1/ 


.(i   >l' 


tii 


H (f  .^. 


[«'*[ 


•>u 


►i!i« 


i; 


'  I    ;; " 


i)4 


iOll 


'OlM 


.'t 


."ii 


NIA 
A 
B 


he 

me 

this 

cat 

pec 

i          wh 

'          mit 

uni 

a  d 

rig 

\ 

1          its 

i 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


47 


C  H  A  PT  E  R    V. 

NIAGARA  STRAIT— BREADTH — DEPTH  —  RAPIDS — GENERAL  APPEAR- 
ANCE —  NAVIGATION  —  STEAMBOATS  —  ISLANDS  —  GRAND  ISLAND- 
BOSTON  TIMBER-COMPANY — VILLAGE— MILLS — VESSELS  DESTROYED 
— BUCK-HOKN  ISLAND— NAVY  ISLAND— MILITARY   OCCUPATION. 

"  The  sails  of  commerce  whiten  o'er  the  seas, 
"  '   And  wing  their  way  when  favored  b}'  the  breeze  ; 
But  when  opposing  tides  and  tempests  rise, 

The  yielding  barque  the  unequal  contest  flies,  j 

And  fate-ward  driven,  is  wrecked  upon  the  shore. 
Or  forced  to  shun  the  track  she  sought  before. 
Not  ao  with  thy  creations,  Lord  of  steam  I 
They  breast  the  raging  storm,  ascend  the  stream  — 
•      Contending  currents  and  advancing  gales,  '  " 

- '      '    But  show  thy  triumph  over  seas  and  sails." 

A  V 1  N  G  briefly  noticed  the  principal 
places  on  th  Niagara  frontier,  a  short  ac- 
30unt  of  the  river  itself,  its  islands,  cur- 
ents,  etc.,  is  further  necessary  to  our  pur- 
pose of  giving  the  reader  the  information 
he  must  necessarily  desire  to  obtain,  of  every  thing  im- 
mediately connected  with  the  Falls.  Every  portion  of 
this  strait,  from  its  intimate  relation  to  the  wonderful 
cataract,  which  yearly  attracts  such  vast  numbers  of 
people  from  even  the  remote  parts  of  the  earth,  and 
which  is  in  itself  so  immeasurably  superior  in  its  subli- 
mity and  grandeur  to  every  natural  work  of  the  material 
universe,  of  which  we  have  any  knowledge,  must  possess 
a  degree  of  interest  to  the  traveller  which  we  have  no 
right,  if  even  we  had  the  inclination,  to  overlook.  '  '^ 

The  Niagara  river  or  strait,  is  about  two  miles  wide  at 
its  efflux,  opposite  Buffalo.     At  Black  Rock,  it  is  nearly 


U  '-t  ■ 


1'^ 

'i' 

if  '< 

1 

1*  '  ^' 

11  'r 


48 


tourist's  companion 


Width  of  Niagara  river  —  Distinctive  features. 


a  mile  in  breadth,  and  is  here  deep  and  rapid,  having  a 
current  of  six  or  eight  miles  an  hour.  Below  this  point, 
its  breadth  is  variable,  and  it  expands  and  contracts  seve. 
ral  times  before  reaching  Grand  Island,  at  the  head  of 
which  it  is  again  two  miles  wide.  It  here  divides  —  a 
branch  of  from  one  fourth  of  a  mile  to  a  mile  broad, 
passing  round  either  side  of  the  island.  The  whole 
width  of  the  river,  measuring  across  the  centre  of  Grand 
Island,  is  more  than  eight  miles.        . . 

Below  Grand  Island,  and  opposite  to  Schtosser,  it  is 
nearly  three  miles  across,  and  has  the  appearance  of  a 
beautiful  glassy  lake,  such  as  one  might  fancy  in  an  Ital- 
ian landscape.  Lower  down,  it  narrows  to  less  than  a 
mile,  and  soon  after  spreads  again  to  a  mile  and  a  half. 
At  the  Falls,  it  is  about  three  fourths  of  a  mile  wide  ;  a 
short  distance  below,  it  is  contracted  to  fifty-six  rods,  and 
at  the  Whirlpool,  is  but  a  stone's  throw,  or  one  hundred 
and  fifty  yards  across  This  is  the  aarro west  port  of 
the  strait.  ■  '^ 

Its  depth  is  also  very  unequal,  measuring  in  some 
places  not  over  fifteen  or  twenty,  and  in  others  nearly 
three  hundred  feet.  For  this  great  unequality,  it  is  ex. 
tremely  difficult,  if  not  altogether  impossible,  satisfacto- 
rily to  account.  As  may  be  supposed,  from  these  strik. 
ing  irregularities  in  the  breadth  and  depth  of  the  stream, 
the  velocity  of  the  current  is  also  very  variable,  averog. 
ing  from  four  to  five  miles  an  hour  to  the  commence, 
rnent  of  the  rapids,  where  it  is  greatly  increased.      .^ ,, 

At  this  point,  the  bed  of  the  river  declines,  the  chan- 
nel  contracts,  numerous  large  rocks  heave  up  the  rolling 
surges,  and  dispute  the  passage  of  the  now  i aging  and 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


49 


Islands  in  the  Niagara  River. 


foaming  floods.  The  mighty  torrent  leaping  down  suc- 
cessive ledges,  dashing  over  opposing  elevations,  hurled 
back  by  ridges,  and  repelled  from  shores  and  islands, 
plunging,  boiling,  roaring,  seems  a  mad  wilderness  of 
waters,  striving  against  its  better  fate,  and  hurried  on  to 
destruction  by  its  own  blind  and  reckles  impetuosity. 
Were  there  no  cataract,  these  rapids  would  yet  make 
Niagara  the  wonder  of  the  world. 

Most  rivers  proper,  are  subject  to  great  changes  in  the 
quantity  of  water  which  is  carried  down  at  different  sea- 
sons, sometimes  overflowing  their  banks,  and  inundating 
the  flat  country  through  which  they  pass ;  and  at  other 
periods  being  comparatively  low  and  diminutive.  Such 
is  not  the  case  with  the  Niagara  strait.  It  constantly 
presents  the  same  uniform  appearance,  and  is  at  all  times 
a  deep,  powerful,  rapid,  majestic  stream,  pouring  its 
ceaseless  floods  forever  on  to  the  mighty  cataract,  over 
which  they  dash  ;  and  scarcely  affected  by  the  snows  of 
winter,  the  heat  of  summer,  the  rain,  the  drought,  the 
calm,  or  the  storm.  This  peculiarity,  is  of  course  owing 
to  the  great  superficial  extent  of  the  lake  in  which  it  has 
its  origin,  and  of  the  vast  seas  and  rivers  above,  from 
which  its  supplies  are  drawn.  The  close  observer  would 
however,  perceive,  that,  operated  upon  by  local  causes, 
it  rises  and  falls  occasionally,  though  not  to  an  extent 
sufficient  to  alter  its  general  aspect. 

There  are  about  forty  islands  in  the  Niagara  strait, 
above  the  cataract.  Most  of  them  are  small,  insignifi. 
cant,  and  scarcely  worthy  of  enumeration.  Of  those 
immediately  at  the  Falls,  wc  shall  have  occasion  to  speak 


Hi  M 


■WWW^^'^.W***." 


, ) 


k> 


'  =< 


!ii 


50 


TOURIST'S  COMPANION 


Grand  Island  —  Boston  Timber  Company. 


in  another  place.  Saving  these,  Grand  and  Navy  Islands 
are  the  only  two  to  which  any  peculiar  interest  is  at- 
tached. 

Grand  Island  is  about  twelve  miles  long  and  six  broad  ; 
its  upper  extremity  is  about  seven  miles  from  the  lake, 
its  lowest  point  three  milea  above  the  Falls.  It  contains 
over  seventeen  thousand  acres  of  excellent  land,  heavily 
timbered,  and  plentifully  stocked  with  game.  It  is  a  fa 
vorite  resort  for  Indian  hunters,  and  sportsmen  from  Buf- 
falo and  other  places.  This  Island,  with  most  others  in 
the  strait,  belongs  to  the  United  States,  the  main  channel 
of  the  river  being  on  the  west  or  Canada  side.  The 
vanity  and  folly  of  an  ambitious  Israelite,  first  gave  it  no- 
tority,  —  it  has  since  attained  a  celebrity  of  a  different 
kind. 

In  1833,  the  Boston  Timber  Company  purchased  the 
major  part  of  Grand  Island  of  the  State  of  New-York, 
and  commenced  the  erection  of  large  mills  for  the  pur- 
pose of  supplying  the  eastern  market  with  shipping  tim- 
ber ready  fitted  for  use,  the  fine  forest  of  towering  oaks 
and  firs  on  the  Island  furnishing  abundant  material  of 
the  best  kind,  and  of  easy  access.  These  mills  cover  an 
area  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  square.  They  are  (or 
rather  were,  for  their  operations  are  now  suspended) 
driven  by  steam,  and  contained  fifteen  separate  gangs  or 
sets  of  saws,  and  cut  logs  from  ten  to  seventy  feet  in 
length.  Connected  with  these  mills,  there  was  a  large 
steam  flouhng.mill,  and  a  pmall,  but  pleasant  little  village, 
called  White. Haven,  from  the  name  of  the  principal  pro. 
prietor.  The  village  is  directly  opposite  Tonawanda,  on 
the  side  of  the   never.built   city  of  Ararat,  and  the  mills 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


51 


Burnt-Ship  Bay  —  Navy  Island. 


are  a  short  distance  below.  The  Island  is  well  worth  a 
visit,  which  is  easily  made,  as  the  steamboats  that  ply  be- 
tween Buffalo  and  the  Falls,  usually  land  there  to  pro- 
cure the  necessary  article  for  fuel. 

In  1759,  upon  the  conquest  of  the  Canadas  by  the  Eng- 
lish, two  large  French  vessels  were  burnt  at  the  lower 
end  of  Grand  Island,  to  prevent  them  falling  into  the 
hands  of  the  enemy.  Part  of  their  charred  remains  are 
said  to  be  still  visible,  and  not  long  since,  several  tons  of 
iron  were  recovered  from  the  rivr  r,  by  raking  its  bed  at 
the  point  where  they  were  destroyed,  which  portion  of 
the  stream,  is,  from  that  circumstance,  called  Burnt-Ship 
Bay,  and  is  included  between  Grand  and  the  north  west 
extremity  of  Buck-horn  Islands.  This  latter,  is  long, 
low,  and  marshy,  and  contains  one  hundred  and  forty.six 
acres.    It  is  unimportant  in  any  respect. 

NAvy  Island,  belonging  to  the  British  dominions,  lies 
near  the  foot  of  Grand  Island,  between  that  and  the  Can- 
ada shore  : — the  principal  channel  of  the  strait  is  between 
these  two  Islands.  It  is  a  mile  long,  half  a  mile  wide, 
and  contains  three  hundred  and  four  acres  of  land.  The 
soil  is  rich,  and  covered  with  a  heavy  growth  of  timber. 
It  derives  its  name  from  having  been  a  French  naval  de- 
pot, where  the  two  vessels  mentioned  above,  and  other 
smaller  ones  were  constructed. 

This  island  has  become  celebrated  in  connequence  of 
having  been  occupied  by  McKenzie,  Van  Rensselaer, 
Sutherland,  and  others,  refugees  and  *  sublime*  patriots, 
as  a  military  station,  during  the  border  excitement  of  1837 
and  '38,  an  account  of  which,  and  of  the  destruction  of 
the  Caroline  is  reserved  for  a  subsequent  page. 


':'.  V 


■>      !  ■' 


..  ♦'; 


ill 


<    i 


J  '  m 


1   I 


}y\-  i 


•  >: 


I 


■BPWBi! 


■BUM 


IfM 


m 


Ml 


''  i 


52 


TOURIST'S    COMPANION 


CHAPTER    VI. 

NIAGARA  RIVER  —  COURSE  AND  VELOCITY — LOVELINESS — DIVISIONS 
AND  CHARACTERISTICS  —  HEIGHT  OF  BANKS — DEPTH  —  BREADTH 
—  DESCENT  OF  THE  STREAM  —  RETROCESSION  OF  THE  FALLS  — 
CONCLUDING  REMARKS. 

"  Majestic  stream  !  what  river  rivals  thee, 
Thou  child  of  many  lakes  and  sire  of  one- 
Lakes  that  claim  kindred  with  the  all-circling  sea  — 
Large  at  thy  l)irth  as  when  thy  race  is  nin  I 
Against  what  jjreat  obstructions  hast  thou  won 
Thine  august  way  —  the  rock-lbrmed  mountain-plain 
Has  opened  at  thy  bid(hng,  and  the  steep 
Bars  not  thy  passage,  for  the  ledge  in  vain 
Stretches  across  the  channel,  —  thou  dost  leap 
Sublimely  down  the  height,  and  urge  again 
Thy  rock-embattlod  courseon  to  the  distant  main." 

I  A  G  A  H  A  river  is,  in  its  whole  course, 
quite  in  keeping  with  the  stupendous  cata- 
ract  from  which  its  principal  interest  is  deriv- 
ed. There  is  nothing  insignificant,  nothing 
paltry,  nothing  eommon,place  about  it,  from 
the  lake  in  which  its  vast  floods  have  birth,  to  that  which 
they  supply.  It  is  every  wheio  grand,  mighty,  and 
majestic.  "When  spread  to  the  dimensions  of  a  little  sea, 
it  has  no  resemblance  to  a  shoal ;  and  when  contracted 
to  the  breadth  of  a  creek,  it  seems  to  possess  the  power 
of  an  ocean.  The  very  interruptions  it  meets  within  its 
way,  seem  placed  there  only  to  exhibit  the  immensity  of 
its  force.  The  basin  which  receives  its  prodigious  far. 
falling  volume,  resembles  an  abyss  without  bounds  to  its 
capacity  ;  and  the  compressed  channel  through  which  it 
then  flows,  seems  to  have  opened   its  rook.bound  banks 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


53 


Course  of  the  Niagara. 


to.an  imprisoned  sea,  that  would  have  burst  a  passage, 
had  escape  been  denied. 

Making  a  sharp  angle  at  the  Falls,  it  rolls  on  through 
beautiful  curves,  in  an  almost  straight  direction  for  about 
two  miles;  then  winds  gracefully  off  to  the  left,  and  pass- 
ing through  a  succession  of  noble  bends,  rushes,  wild, 
impetuous  and  uncontrollable,  into  the  Whirlpool,  where 
like  a  baffled  Titan  struggling  with  his  bonds,  it  rages  and 
plunges  round  the  impenetrable  barriers  that  hem  it  in  ; 
and  at  last,  having  gathered  anew  its  mighty  energies, 
rushes  headlong  on  in  a  fresh  direction,  and  bounds  away, 
free,  fearless,  and  triumphant. 

Continuing  in  its  new  course —  having  turned  less  than 
a  right.angle  —  but  a  short  distance,  it  rolls  away  gradu- 
ally to  the  west,  and  having  gained  its  former  direction, 
hurries  on,  inclining  now  to  the  right,  and  again  bending 
to  the  left,  here  maddened  by  restraint,  and  there  sooth- 
ed by  expansion,  to  the  end  of  the  mountain-plain,  from 
the  gasping  jaws  of  which  it  rushes  angrily  forth,  but 
soon  recovering  the  serenity  of  its  native  seas,  and  no 
longer  chafed  or  enranged,  it  flows  quietly  and  smoothly 
on,  through  gentle  curves  and  wooing  banks,  to  the 
sweet  lake  whose  soft  embrace  it  has  come  so  far,  and 
encountered  so  much,  to  meet,  and  in  whose  peaceful 
bosom  it  finally  sinks  to  repose. 

From  the  foot  of  the  mountain  ridge  to  lake  Ontario, 
nothing  can  be  more  lovely  than  this  river.  It  is  a  rap- 
ture to  look  upon  its  bright  and  tranquil  course.  It  glides 
along  so  silently  and  almost  imperceptibly,  its  surface  is 
so  calm  and  glassy,  its  breadth  so  uniform  and  expansive, 
its  waters  so  clear  and  deep,  its  banks  so  smooth  and  re- 


^'t\'' 


i*: 


,?   1 


1^1 


I 


1 

•   II 

{   Jl 

h 

■ 

\A  III 

k  : 

54 


tourist's  companion 


Height  or  the  Banks  or  the  liver. 


gular,  its  curvatures  SO  gradual  and  alternate,  its  whole  as- 
pect so  pleasing  and  harmonious,  that  a  delicious  languor 
steals  over  the  mind,  the  spirit  yields  itself  unconciously 
to  a  sweet  oblivion  of  turbulence  and  strife,  and  its  con- 
templations  are  of  sunny  skies,  shining  streams,  and  shady 
groves.  The  eye  lingers  with  delight  upon  the  blended 
hues,  the  graceful  turnp,  and  emerald  shores  of  the  no 
longer  agitated,  but  now  beautiful  Niagara  ;  and  the  soul, 
at  peace  with  itself,  with  nature,  and  with  all  things,  in- 
dulges in  a  dreamy  delirium  of  joy,  unshadowed  by  care, 
untinged  with  gloom,  and  unbroken  by  tumult. 

Each  of  the  four  great  divisions  of  the  strait  has  its  pe- 
culiar  and  distinguishing  characteristics.  Those  are  from 
Lake  Erie  to  the  rapids,  majesty,  extent,  variety  ;  from 
the  rapids  to  the  ferry,  immensity,  energy,  sublimity  ; 
from  the  ferry  to  Lewiaton,  restraint,  activity,  vigour ; 
from  Lewiston,  to  Lake  Ontario,  placidity,  beauty,  repose. 
The  banks  of  the  river  partake  of  the  different  feautures 
of  the  stream.  Above  the  Falls  they  are  of  variable 
height,  shape,  and  consistency,  now  low,  grassy,  and  lawn- 
like, and  now  high,  dark,  and  frowning ;  at  the  Falls  they 
are  bold,  grand,  impending ;  from  the  ferry  to  Lewiston, 
they  are  lofty,  rugged,  uneven  ;  and  from  thence  to  the 
lake,  they  are  smooth,  sloping  and  regular.  From  the 
efflux  oi  the  river,  to  the  cataract,  they  are  from  five  to 
one  hundred  feet  high  ;  from  the  Falls  to  the  end  of  the 
mountain  ridge,  they  are  from  one  hundred  and  seventy, 
to  three  hundred  and  seventy  feet  prependicular  height; 
at  Lewiston  they  are  one  hundred  feet  high,  and  from 
thence  to  the  lake,  they  have  a  gradual  and  unbroken  de- 
scent.   At  Schlosser  the  banks  ore  thirteen  feet   higher 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


55 


River  below  tbe  Falls. 


than  the  level  of  Lake  Erie  ;  at  the  Falls  they  are  one 
hundred  and  nine  feet,  and  at  the  heights  near  Lewiston, 
thirty-eight  feet  above  the  same  level. 

The  river  below  the  Falls  and  near  the  ferry,  is  two 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  deep,  as  ascertained  by  actual 
measurement, — in  other  places,  no  bottom  has  ever  been 
found.  Its  width  at  the  ferry,  is  about  seventy -six  rods  ; 
a  short  distance  below,  it  is  contracted  to  fifty-six  rods  ; 
from  thence  to  Lewiston,  it  varies  from  twenty.five  to  one 
hundred  rods,  and  from  Lewiston  to  the  lake,  from  one 
half  to  three  fourths  of  a  mile  in  breadth.  The  narrow- 
est point  is  at  the  Whirpool, where  it  is  but  twenty.five 
rods  across. 

The  descent  of  the  river  from  ils  efflux,  to  Black  Rock 
is  six  feet;  from  thence  to  the  rapids,  ten  feet;  from  the 
head  of  the  rapids  to  the  cataract,  fifty-eight  feet ;  the 
cataract  itself,  one  hundred  and  fifty -four  feet ;  from  the 
Falls  to  Lewiston,  one  hundred  and  four  feet ;  and  from 
Lewiston  to  Lake  Ontario,  about  two  feet.  The  whole 
declivity  of  the  strait  from  Lake  Erie  to  Lake  Ontario,  is 
therefore  three  hundred  and  thirty.four  feet  I 

It  has  been  a  subject  of  much  dispute,  whether  or  not 
the  Falls  has  receded  from  the  heights  at  Lewiston  to 
their  present  place,  and  the  question  yet  remains  unde- 
cided.  The  author's  opinion  may  be  of  small  importance, 
but  it  is  proper  that  it  should  be  expressed.  From  a  care- 
ful observation  of  all  their  phenomena,  and  of  the  whole 
extent  of  the  chasm,  he  is  satisfied  that  they  have,  but 
that  their  retrocession  has  been  extrernely  slow.  The 
nature  of  the  rocks,  the   appearance  of  the  channel,  the 


1 


I!    ', 


>  I 


nwi' 


I?      ^'r: 


56 


tourist's  companion. 


Recession  of  the  Falls. 


known   history  of  the  cataract,  all  seems  to  confirm  the 
supposition. 

If  it  be  true  that  they  have  so  far  receded,  to  what 
august  speculation  does  it  not  give  rise  ?  What  a  time 
must  have  elapsed,  what  a  prodigious  power  must  have 
been  exerted,  ere  the  floods  of  this  mighty  river  could 
have  rent  a  passage  three  hundred  feet  deep,  through  the 
living  rocks,  for  a  distance  of  seven  miles  !  When  did 
this  great  work  commence  ?  What  progress,  and  what 
pauses  were  made  ?  How  long  was  its  course  delayed 
in  hollowing  out  that  vast  basin  the  Whirlpool  ?  When 
was  the  first  crag  torn  from  the  rugged  brow  of  Iris 
Island?  How  long  has  the  cataract  been  digging  at  the 
dread  abyss  upon  whose  verge  it  labours  ?  Imagination 
recoils  in  terror  from  the  task  of  tracing  this  stupendous 
movement.  Untold  ages  must  have  watched  with  awe 
the  **  sublime  march  of  Niagara  to  the  music  of  its  own 
deep  thunders ! " 

Having  thus  sketched  with  a  rapid  but  timorous  hand, 
the  main  features  of  the  strait  in  which  the  Falls  resound, 
and  given  a  brief,  but  accurate  account  of  the  several 
towns,  villages,  and  other  places  on  its  borders,  we  come 
now  to  the  great  cataract  itself,  and  the  many  remarkable 
scenes  in  its  vicinity;  and  if  we  fail  to  describe  that  which 
is  far  too  grand  for  description,  we  shall  at  least  endeavor 
to  direct  the  attention  of  the  reader  to  all  the  different 
points  and  views  which  he  ought  to  visit  and  examine, 
relate  so  much  of  them  as  may  be  t«)ld,  and  thus  guide 
him  to  a  right  obs^^rvation  and  a  proper  judgment  of  this 
most  sublime  anji  magnificent  object  of  wonder  and  curi- 
osity in  the  known  material  universe. 


I  ■ 


i,-;-^(;-t'^^;»^*:n^WO!».i«^.-t. '»>'.' 


^f 


^^;' 


■■?  5 


^    I  ■ 
i     ■           f 

1 

1                    ,        f 

i 

•  l.il 

V 

1     •>; 

H 


s 

,  ( 

,11 

1 

! 

■''I 

p  in  ^  11  .1  ■  1 

;::i|l 

■       i  J       !        -,. 

■.''  ■ 

: ;(     ;, 

r. 

i   : 

'  1 

I 

1  -i 

1      -i 

( 

■■■: 

!l     ! 


i 


I;  U 


II 


I!    '3 


■'.  \ 


57 


THE  CATARACT, 


AMD    OTHSB 


OBJECTS  OF  CURIOSITY. 


CHAPTER   VII. 

♦*  Flow  on  forever  in  thy  glorious  rcbe 
Of  terror  and  of  beauty.     God  hath  aet 
His  rainbow  on  thy  forehead,  and  the  cloud 
Mantles  around  thy  feet!" 

F  T  E  R  having  become  more  familiarized 
vviih  the  general  aspect  of  Niagara,  and 
xamined  it  more  in  delail,  we  find  that  it 
s  in  every  part  entitled  to  unbouded  admi. 
cation.  Every  time  it  is  looked  upon,  some 
new  beauty,  or  some  fresh  sublimity  is  perceived,  and  we 
begin  gradually  to  realize  what  a  grand  combination  of 
separate  and  distinct  objects  ot  interest  are  blended  into 
one  overpowering  and  perfect  whole,  the  tout  ensemble  of 
which  leaves  nothing  to  be  desired,  and  can  by  nothing 
be  paralleled.  It  may  tire  the  eye  by  its  vastness,  and 
fatigue  the  ear  by  its  rush,  but  can  never  pall  upon  the 
mind,  and  when  the  senses  are  refreshed  by  rest,  they 
return  to  it  with  delight.  The  soul  clings  to  it  with  a 
likeness  of  religious  faith,  for  awe  becomes  softened  into 
love,  and  affection  is  elevated  to  reverence.  All  things 
really  great  or  beautiful  grow  upon  our  esteem  at  each 


■ihh 


iU 


I.  'i  i 


^1 


ii    1 


;  J 


'('.    1 


■m 


:..^.i^.JlALi.'^A.i 


1  i 


r\     \ 

V  'i.'i 

i 

■  j'ttj 

■  ( WJ 

{I 

1 

\ 

ll 

i 

i:-; 

1 

t 

ii .; 


KJ§  |8 


58 


tourist's  companion 


General  Uemarks. 


succeeding  interview  or  communion ;  as  on  the  other 
hand,  all  things  insignificant  or  ugly  lessen  in  our  respect 
every  time  they  are  encountered. 

A  mighty  river  pours  down  a  tremendous  height,  and 
falls  into  a  vast  ahyss  : —  this  is  a  grand  cataract  —  Nia- 
gara  is  something  more.  Irs  sea  of  rapids,  its  clouds  of 
spray,  its  lake  of  foam,  its  projecting  cliffs,  its  piled-up 
rocks,  its  gorgeous  colours,  its  fine  cascades,  its  lovely 
islands,  its  giant  caves,  its  deafening  roar, —  these,  and  a 
host  of  other  marvels  and  beauties,  combine  to  make  up 
that  wonderful  thing,  Niagara  !  and  each  of  these  claims 
especial  attention,  and  is  worthy  of  particular  praise. 

The  river  Niagara,  after  a  course  of  twenty-one  miles, 
has  a  rapid  declination,  and  rushing  down  with  inconcei- 
vable fury,  is  impeded  by  rocks  and  ledges,  dashing  around 
and  over  wiiich  it  is  thrown  into  terrible  confusion,  and, 
leaping  here,  plunging  there,  raging,  tumbling,  whirling, 
foaming  on,  boiling  in  one  place,  billowing  in  another, 
and  maddening  every  where,  is  so  convulsed  and  tossed 
about  that  it  resembles  literally  a  *'  hell  of  waters."  Such 
are  the  rapids  —  more  particularly  that  part  of  them 
nearest  the  American  shore.  On  the  opposite  side,  the 
bed  of  the  river  has  a  greater  declivity,  the  water  is  much 
deeper,  and  the  intumescence  less  apparent.  There, 
however,  they  are  immensely  grand,  and  the  prodigious 
volume  of  water  rushing  down  from  ledg*^  *'>  '"H"  with 
an  impetuosity  beyond  conception  vi«»|e'  scene 

less  turbulent,  but  if  possible,  ev(         ,ji  ,'ni       nt. 

At  the  head  of  the  rapids  the  i  er  is  oifurcated  by 
Goat  or  Iris  Island,  which  separates  it '  Uo  two  unequal 
parts —  that  on  the  Canada  side  being  much  the  broadest 


.  t 


■^ 


t 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


59 


Islands  near  the  Falls  —  Form  of  the  Cataract. 


—  which  are  not  again  united  until  it  has  passed  the  cata. 
ract,  the  Island  extending  to,  and  forming  part  of  the 
precipice,  and  thus  dividing  the  fall  into  several  and  dis. 
tinct  cascades.  Hence  the  plural  Falls.  An  inconsider. 
able  portion  of  the  lesser  of  these  cascades  is  cut  off  on 
the  side  next  Iris  Island,  by  Luna  or  Prospect  Island,  and 
is  called  the  Central  Fall.  The  water  consequently  de- 
scends in  three  distinct  sheets  ;  and  we  have  the  Ameri- 
can  or  Schlosser  Fall  between  the  American  shore  and 
Prospect  Island ;  the  Central  or  Crescent  Fall  between 
Prospect  and  Iris  Islands,  and  the  British  or  Horse-shoe 
Fall  between  Iris  Island  and  the  Canada  shore  —  these 
form  the  Cataract  of  Niagara. 

The  form  of  the  cataract  is  an  irregular  indented  curve, 
measuring — Iris  and  Prospect  Islands  inclusive  — some. 
thing  more  than  fourteen  hundred  yards,  or  above  three 
fourths  of  a  mile  —  the  periphery  of  the  Horse-shoe  Fall 
being  about  seven  hundred  yards,  of  the  Central  Fall 
about  twenty  yards,  and  of  the  American  Fall  three  hun- 
dred  and  thirty  yards.  The  perpendicular  visible  descent, 
on  the  American  side,  is  one  hundred  and  sixty.four  feet 

—  of  the  Horse-shoe  Fall,  one  hundred  and  fifty. eight 
feet.  By  far  the  largest  portion  of  the  river,  is  carried 
over  the  Horse-shoe  Fall,  where  the  water  is  so  deep  as 
to  flow  almost  smoothly  over,  and  pass  down  in  one  vast 
unbroken  sheet. 

The  spray  from  this  part  of  the  Falls  rises  in  such  dense 
masses,  as  sometimes  to  obscure  nearly  the  whole  view 
from  below,  and  hovers  in  such  vast  clouds  above  the 
cataract  as  to  be  visible  forty  or  fifty  miles.  It  is  often 
seen  by  the  distant  observer,  when  the  sky  is  clear  and 


fl 


';■. 


,  A 


,i 


■  r  -ii 


ml 


I 


60 


TOURIST'S    COMPANION 


Mist  of  the  Falls  —  Appearance. 


there  is  no  wind,  to  float  up  and  undulate  gently  above 
the  Falls,  like  an  immense  milk-white  plume,  fringed  with 
gold,  and  tinted  with  the  most  delicate  and  beautiful 
colours.  When  the  wind  is  strong  down  the  river,  the 
spray  fills  the  whole  chasm  with  a  thick  foggy  mist,  and 
renders  the  ferry-crossing  not  a  little  uncomfortable,  from 
the  drenching  showers  that  fall  around.  At  sunrise  on  a 
clear  morning,  other  circumstances  being  favorable,  the 
rising  mist^,  or  spray,  present  a  variety  of  beautiful  and 
interesting  phenomena  ;  now  rolling  up  in  huge  fantastic 
and  curling  volumes,  glowing  in  richest  purple,  crimson, 
gold,  and  a  thousand  other  bright  and  blended  hues  ;  and 
now  sparkling  in  the  light  like  a  shower  of  precious  stones, 
or  as  if  the  prismatic  rays  were  frolicking  among  the 
falling  drops. 

The  foot  of  the  Falls  is  never  seen  from  these  dense 
clouds  of  mist  and  spray,  that  are  forever  rolling  up  ;  and 
the  great  body  _of  watei  in  the  basin  below  is  violently 
agitated  and  tossed,  panting  and  throbbing  as  if  it  had  an 
imprisoned  earthquake  struggling  to  get  free,  within  its 
heaving  bosom,  or  was  convulsed  by  the  tortme  of  inter- 
nal fires.  The  whole  surface  is  covered  with  a  thick 
white  foam,  and  resembles  a  tempestuous  sea  of  milk, 
surging,  boiling,  whirling,  and  billowing  as  it  rolls  away, 
and  at  last,  rippling,  and  dissolving  in  the  distance,  or 
nestling  in  little  patches  among  the  rocks  and  eddies  of 
the  shore.  Seen  from  above,  the  abyss  appears  like  a  vast 
seething  cauldron,  bubbling,  foaming,  and  steaming  up, 
without  relaxation,  and  without  repose.  Tliis  confused 
turbulence,  is  undoubtedly  occasioned  by  the  action  and 
reaction  of  the  prodigious  body  of  water  falling  from  so 


^fm. 


1 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


61 


Quantity  of  Water —  Winter  aftpect  of  the  Falls. 


great  a  height,  and  forced  to  such  an  immense  depth. 
The  buried  volumes  crowding  each  other  on,  and  pushing 
and  displacing  the  incumbent  mass,  with  an  energy  and 
power  proportioned  to  their  quantity  and  impulsion,  must 
of  necessity  produce  a  tremendous  agitation,  and  keep 
the  whole  accumulating  and  shifting  flood  in  constant 
commotion  and  turmoil. 

The  quantity  of  water  precipitated  over  the  cataract 
has  been  variously  estimated  by  difierent  persons.  Dr. 
Dwight,  supposing  a  current  of  six  miles  per  hour,  com- 
putes it  at  1,225,125,000  tons  per  day  ;  102,093,750  tons 
per  hour  ;  170,156  tons  per  minute  ;  and  28,359  tons  per 
second  ;  and  this,  incredibly  great  as  the  quantity  must 
appear,  is  probably  a  close  approximation  to  the  truth. 
Of  course,  it  is  not  always  the  same.  A  strong  wind  down 
the  lake  has  the  effect  of  raising  the  river  abiove  the  Falls 
one  or  two  feet,  and  inversely  in  a  less  proportion.  A 
rise  of  eighrecn  inches  above  the  cataract,  causes  the 
water  to  rise  in  the  basin  beneath,  above  fifteen  feet. 
This  phenomenon  is  owing  to  the  contraction  of  the 
channel  below. 

The  banks  of  the  river  at  the  Falls,  average  nearly 
two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  heiglit,  and  present  a  most 
imposing  appearance.  In  several  places  they  project 
over  to  a  considerable  distance  ;  —  at  Table  Rock,  in 
particular,  this  feature  is  strikingly  apparent,  and  cna- 
bles  the  visiter  to  pass  some  distance  under  the  great 
sheet  itself,  where  one  of  the  most  grand  and  impressive 
scenes  is  presented  to  the  awe-struck  beholder,  of  which 
it  is   possible  to  conceive.     Along  the  whole  end  of  Iris 


ti 


i'^ 


■\ 


1  p! 


!       X  M 


JM: 


i 


m 


'\    H 


I ) 


f   : 
^1 


Il      >':! 


Ij 


■{ 


h 


m 

III 

62 


tourist's  companion 


Roar  of  the  Cataract  —  it«  efl'ect  neartlie  Falls. 


Island  the  vast  rock  of  which  it  is  composed,  is  also  im- 
pending, and  has  a  dangerous  and  fearful  aspect,  which 
produces  upon  some  nerves,  a  terrific  and  quite  overpow- 
ering effect. 

The  noise,  or  roar  of  the  cataract,  is  not  so  astound, 
ingas  the  lover  of  thunder  might  desire;  but  it  is  in  keep- 
ing with  the  scene,  and  may  be  heard  twenty  or  thirty 
miles.  Ordinarily,  it  falls  upon  the  ear  with  a  ceaseless 
rushing  sound,  like  that  of  a  strong  wind  through  a  forest 
of  trees,  for  which  it  is  sometimes  mistaken  by  persons 
approaching  the  Falb.  But  it  is  deep,  solemn,  and  con- 
tinuous, and  though  it  does  not  burst  upon  the  tympanum 
like  the  startling  crash  of  worlds,  is  yet  inconceivably  im- 
pressive. Soiie  whose  auricular  organs  are  more  deli- 
catcly  attuned  than  those  of  the  many,  find  it  almost  in- 
supportable.  People  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Falls,  from 
constantly  hearing  it,  become  so  familiarized  with  the 
sound,  that  it  is  scarcely  perceived  —  like  the  air  they 
breathe,  it  is  a  part  of  the  world  in  which  they  live  and 
move,  and  hence,  too  common  to  be  remarked.  It  has 
been  said,  that  its  effect  upon  the  inhabitants  near,  is  in 
time,  to  make  them  deaf;  but  this,  if  it  be  so,  is  a  fact 
yet  to  be  established.  In  the  village,  its  sweeter  and  sub. 
limer  sounds  are  hardly  perceptible;  and  even  on  the  Is- 
lands, or  at  Table  Rock,  are,  so  to  speak,  nearly  drowned 
in  the  rush  and  roar  of  the  tumbling  floods  ;  but  stop  and 
listen  —  on  the  Terrapin  Bridge  for  instance — and 
above,  and  as  it  were  breaking  through  the  general  roar, 
you  will  hear  its  sonorous  tones  rolling  up  like  subdued 
thunder,  peal  following  peal,  rising,  falling,  swelling,  and 
diminishing,  in  soft  end  musical  cadences,  and  hymning 


by 


sta 

re  I 

In 

th( 

wii 

mil 

wil 


T 


^ 


1 


TO  NIAGARA    FALLS. 


63 


State  of  the  atmosphere —  Vibration  of  tlie  earth. 


an  eternal  anthem  of  sweet  and  solemn  praise  to  its  Al- 
mighty Maker.  Not  to  hear  this,  is  to  lose  one  of  the 
most  delectable  pleasures  of  Niagara. 

The  state  of  the  atmosphere,  of  course,  affects  the 
roar  of  the  Falls ;  and  the  distance  to  which  it  may  be 
heard  is  consequently  dependent  upon  the  rarity  or  den- 
sity ol  the  air.  Generally,  it  may  be  distinguished  four 
or  five  leagues  off  but  has  frequently  been  observed  at 
Buffalo,  and  once,  it  is  said,  even  at  Toronto,  forty.five 
miles  distant.  In  the  region  of  country  near  the  cata- 
ract,  the  noise  affords  to  the  inhabitants  barometrical  in- 
dications  of  the  most  unfailing  and  accurate  character. 
When  the  sound  is  uncommonly  loud  and  distinct,  how- 
ever clear  the  sky,  or  pleasant  the  season,  it  precurses  a 
change  of  weather,  and  a  coming  storm.  An  opposite 
predication  based  upon  the  reverse  of  this  phenomenon, 
is  also  infallibly  verified  by  the  event.  And  ■  thus  even 
the  hidden  decrees  of  destiny  are  in  part  revealed  to  man, 
by  the  prophet-voiced  roar  of  the  thunder-tongued  cata. 
ract. 

The  solid  earth  vibrates  in  unison  with  the  concussions 
of  the  cataract,  and  is  affected  sensibly  by  the  shock  of 
the  contending  floods.  You  do  not  indeed  feel  the 
ground  shaking  beneaih  your  feet,  but  in  the  most  sub- 
stantial buildings,  a  tremulous  motion  is  at  times  appa- 
rent, which  can  arise  from  nothing  but  the  jar  of  the  Falls. 
In  the  stillness  of  night,  this  sympathy  of  the  shores  with 
the  cataract,  is  most  apparent;  the  shutters  creak,  the 
windows  ratlle,  and  strangers  sometimes  awoke  in  the 
midst  of  a  fancied  tempest,  to  find  the  sky  serene,  the 
winds  hushed,  and  the   bright  moon  and   stars  shedding 


!■■' 


V 


}\ 


M 


'I 


1\ 


T  I^H' 


J  if 


''(i 


n 


m 


i  ^■>l 


i 


64 


TOURIST  S    COMPANION 


General  app«ar.ince  of  the  sheet. 


their  silver  r  ys  upon  the  beautiful  earth  and  the  shining 
stream. 

Almost  every   imaginable   tint  in  nature   may  be  seen 
at  the  Falls,  in  the  gorfjcous  and   shifting  rainbows  that 
meet  you  at  almost  every  turn  —  now  sleeping  quietly 
below,  now  arching  the  chasm,  anon  resting  on  the  brink, 
and  then  stretching  up  from  the  frothing  abyss  to  the  diz- 
zy  verge  of  the  cataract,  here  shooting  up  from  the  edge 
of  the  precipice,  there  floating self-poised  in  the  mid-mist 
of  the  vapoury  exhalations,    now  belting  the   sheet   as 
with  a  zone  of  beauty,  and   often  circling  the  spray  with 
a  ccstus  more  bewitching  than  that  of  the  fabled  Venus 
—  in  the  rich  and  diversified  colouring  of  the  rapids,  cas- 
cades, and  basin  ;  and  in   that  of  the  rocks,    trees,  and 
foliage,  the  mists  and  spray,  that  surround,  cover,   and 
beautify  the  most  grand,  lovely,  and  august  of  all  earthly 
manifestations  of  creative  energy. 

The  sheet  as  it  pours  down  the  precipice  is  variegated 
with  many  exquisite  tints,  the  majority  of  which  are  so 
delicate  as  to  be  indescribable  —  here  wreathed  in  spark, 
ling  diiunonds,  there  robed  in  purest  white,  and  elsewhere 
shining  in  blue,  amber,  chrystal,  brown,  yellow,  grey,  and 
emerald  lines,  melting  and  blending  together,  as  if  in 
emulation  of  the  Iris  which  hovers  ever  around  them. 
The  foam  in  the  broad  basin  below  is  generally  of  a  milky 
white,  but  is  said  by  Irgrahani  to  present  sometimes  the 
appearaiu'c  of  a  '  bed  of  roses  in  a  field  of  snow,"  The 
usual  colour  of  the  stream  is  a  deep  green,  but  it  is  also 
tinted  with  various  shades  of  beauty.  The  grass,  flowers, 
and  foliage  on  the  banks  and  islands,  gemmed  and  starred 


A"|lW 


^ 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


65 


Scenery  about  the  Falls  —  Shrubs  — Floweis.  t'> 


with  spray  and  glistening  and  flashing  in  the  sunlight,  may 
neither  be  imagined  nor  described. 

The  scenery  about  the  Falls  in  summer,  may  be  imaged 
by  the  lovely  reaching  to  the  sublime ;  and  in  winter  by 
the  sublime  stooping  to  the  lovely.  At  the  latter  season 
it  is  magnificent,  in  the  former,  beautiful.  In  autumn 
too — how  glorious,  how  varied,  how  exquisite  it  is  in 
autumn ! 

In  summer,  the  earth,  the  trees,  the  shores,  the  islands, 

and  parts  of  the  very  rocks,  are  clothed  with  a  living 

emerald  of  luxurious  growth.     Watered  by  the  spray,  the 

rich  earth  teems  with  vegetation,  and  sends  up  a  thousand 

forms  of  life  and  loveliness.     Shrubs,  flowers,  and  foJivnge 

cover  and  almost  encumber  the   ground,  which  clad  in 

verdure,  and  breathed  upon  by  the  wind,  seems  a  rippling 

sea  of  greenness.      Vines  and  ivy  climb  thv'?  tall   tree?, 

twine  their  tendril-fingers  around  the  twigs  and  branv^hes, 

and  meet  and  mingle  their  leaves  together :  —  beauty  em- 

bracing  strength,  —  weakness  cherished  by  vigour.     The 

humble  moss  freshens  and  fattens  on  the  logs,  roots,  and 

even  rocks ;  interlaces  and  extends   its  tiny  fibres;  and 

derives  health  and  nourishment  from  the  pure  air,  and  the 

sweet  spray  of  Niagara.      Bushes,  and  even   large  trees, 

stoop  to  look  over  the  banks  and  down  upon  the  stream ; 

and   the    more   lowly  plants  creep   between  them  to  the 

verge,  and  hang  over  the   abyss,  seemingly  to  enjoy  the 

same  splendid   prospect.     The  trees,  and  the  air  too,  are 

populous  with  animal   and  insect   life.     Birds,  squirrels, 

butterflies,  bees,  grasshoppers,  —  these,  and  many  other 

beautiful  but  harmless  creatures,  fill    the  air  with  their 

glad  rejoicings,  and  wanton  among  the  leaves  and  flow. 
D 


I 


in  ■' 


[ 


:P 


i     1 

h  it 

1 

ft 

1     : 

1 

I 


i^    r 


66 


TOURIST  8    COMPANION 


.  n^. 


Forest —  Scenery  —  Appearance  in  winter. 


ers.  There  is  everything  to  interest,  amuse,  and  delight ; 
but  nothing  to  vex,  annoy,  or  alarm ;  and  such  is  summer 
at  Niagara. 

In  autumn,  the  scene  is  changed  indeed,  and  addresses 
itself  to  the  eye  and  understanding,  rather  than  to  the 
heart  and  the  afTeciions.  The  scenery  is  indescribably 
beautiful,  variegated,  v/ith  every  imaginable  shade  of 
colouring;  and,  like  the  death-bed  of  a  christian,  seems 
designed  to  banish  the  fear  of  dissolution,  by  showing 
that  the  end  of  life  may  be  even  better  than  the  begin, 
ning  or  the  fullness,  invested  as  it  is  with  such  a  surpass, 
ing  glory.  The  exceeding  richness  of  forest  scenery  in  a 
North  American  autumn,  has  been  often  said  and  sung  ; 
and  the  effect  of  that  season  upon  Niagara  bids  defiance 
to  the  tongue  or  pen.  Suffice  then  to  say,  that  new  and 
grand  combinations  of  beauty  are  there  displayed,  which 
charm  the  eye,  chain  the  attention,  and  fasten  upon  the 
mind;  and  which  will  remain  fixed  in  the  memory  long 
after  the  lapse  of  years  has  erased  many  and  later  impres- 
sions  of  other  and  different  objects.  Niagara  in  autumn, 
is  a  grand  subject  for  a  great  painter  ;  but  unfortunately, 
—  hf:yond  hid  art  ! 

In  winter,  how  different  still,  and,  O,  how  magnificent ! 
The  grass  is  turned  to  pearl,  the  forest  to  coral,  and  the 
foliage  to  chrystal,  by  tlie  falling  and  freezing  spray. 
Rocks  of  glass,  columns  of  alabaster,  trees  of  coral,  and 
the  rainbows  resting  upon  the  chrystal  branches,  and 
nestling  among  the  diamond  twigs  and  tendrils  !  A 
writer  upon  the  Falls,  long  a  resident  there,  and  familiar 
with  the  scenery  at  all  seasons,  well  observes,  that  it  is 
'»  worth   a  journey  of  thousands  of  miles"  to  obtain   a 


t 
s| 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


67 


Winter  aspect  of  the  Falls. 


sight  of  Nias^ara  in  winter.  Groves  of  spar  bending 
beneath  a  weight  of  brilliants,  in  all  the  blazonry  of  splen- 
dor, allure  and  dazzle  the  eye  ;  and,  stirred  by  the  wind, 
rain  down  upon  the  alabaster  earth  showers  of  emerald, 
amethyst,  topaz,  and  other  precious  stones,  glistening  in 
the  sunlight,  and  still  shining  where  they  fall. 

The  stream,  a  sporting  sea  of  silver,  springs  in  bright, 
sparkling  fleecy  masses,  d^  vvn  a  porcelain  precipice,  and 
falling  upon  rocks  of  translucent  chalcedony,  carved  into 
strange  and  curious  shapes,  covered  with  ingenious  and 
quaint  devices,  and  fringed  around  with  pointed  pendants 
of  chrystal,  dashes  glittering  up,  filling  the  air  with  starry, 
lustrous,  rainbow-wreaths  of  beauty.  Chrystalline  sta- 
lactites of  ono''*  30U3  size  and  immeasurable  length,  over, 
laying  and  clustering  round  each  other  in  many  a  fanciful 
and  fantastic  shape,  forming  colonnades,  pilasters,  capi. 
tals,  and  cornices,  ornamented  and  enriched  by  a  beauti- 
ful fretwork  of  glassy  texture  and  delicate  tracery  — 
hang  down  the  banks  and  mock  the  sun  with  their  lustre, 
making  of  the  chasm  and  cataract,  a  glorious  and  gor- 
geous  temple  and  altar  of  the  Eternal,  from  which  a 
snowy  incense  rolls  up  in  graceful  convolutions,  cloud, 
like,  to  Heaven  !  Ir  is  indeed,  a  fairy  scene  :  —  but  like 
the  heartless  splendor  of  courts  —  chilling  !  A  fairy 
scene  indeed,  for  it  is  not  real :  —  a  cloud  passing  over 
the  sun  will  destroy  all  its  blazonry,  and  leave  only —  ice  ! 
Still  it  is  initnitfibly  beautiful,  and  worth  a  pilgrimage  to 
witness,  if  only  for  a  moment. 

Below  the  cataract,  the  spray  congealing  as  it  falls, 
and  constantly  aecrcting,  forms  mountains  of  ice  that 
nearly  overtop  the  precipice,  and   seem  like  vast  colmuns 


•:*' 


I'    f  I 


Ml 

n 

i 


'.'t 


I  i' 


Ml 


'W' 

\  1' 

ill 

68 


TOUKIST  S    COMPANION 


Winter  aspect  of  the  FrIIs. 


of  transparent  sun.bright  chrystal,  supporting  the  silvery 
sheet,  and  lending  it  a  thousand  hues.  The  nver  never 
freezes  over,  but  large  masses  of  ice  are  sometimes  col- 
lected and  blocked  in,  so  as  to  form  a  natural  bridge, 
extendingly  nearly  up  to  the  foot  of  the  Falls,  and  for 
two  miles  down  the  stream,*  Magnificent  views  of  the 
cataract  are  then  obtained  from  this  frozen  platform,  and 
splendors  surpassing  those  of  the  Polar  Seas  are  beheld. 
Such  is  Niagara  in  winter,  only  the  half  is  not,  and  could 
not  be  told. 

Having  thus  briefly  glanced  over  the  principal  fea- 
tures of  the  cataract,  and  of  the  scenery  that  surrounds 
if,  we  come  next  to  perform  our  office  of  "  guide,"  and 
point  out  the  diflTerent  localities  and  object/?  that  could  be 
visited  and  observed,  and  in  their  proper  order  of  succes- 
sion. 

*  A  bridge  of  this  kind  was  formed  below  the  Falls  during  the  past  winter,  of 
uncommon  dimensions.  The  ice  was  not  less  than  one  hundred  feet  thick,  and 
rose  above  the  water  from  thirty  to  forty  feet.  People  ciossetl  on  it  for  some 
days,  from  the  foot  of  the  Biddle  Stiiir-case  to  the  Canada  side.  At  the  ferry 
the  river  was  thus  passable  for  several  months ;  and  a  small  house  was  built  near 
the  centre  for  the  sale  of  liquors  and  otlier  refreshments. 


a*«ff»¥^^%  ,*^£.r?5i£_-^l^ 


RH 


■^W 


1  I 


TO  NIAGARA   FALLS. 


69 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

PRELIMINARY  REMARKS  —  DIRECTIONS  —  PROSPECT  POINT  —  VIEW 
ON  CANADA  SIDE — VIEWS  ON  THE  AMERICAN  SIDE — PROSPECT 
PLACE  —  AMERICAN  FALL —  WARE'S  OBSERVATORY  —  BRIDGE  TO 
BATH  ISLAND — TOLL  HOUSE — MR.  JACOBS  —  MASTODON  TOOTH  — 


SHIP     AND     BRIO     ISLANDS 
QUESTION. 


lovers'      RETREAT  —  POPPING     THE 


"  I  saw  its  waters  plunge  to  yawning  caves, 
Where  danced  the  floating  Iris  on  their  waves; 
Then,  further  off,  on  the  green  moss  divide 
In  streamlets  foaming  still,  the  sheeted  tide, 
Shrowding  the  flowery  sod  with  network  frail, 
Spread  and  contract  by  turns  its  waving  veil, 
And  filling  all  the  glade  with  voice  and  »pray, 
Sweep  in  its  tides  of  quivering  light  away  I 
I  saw  them  mount,  and  roll,  and  downward  glide. 
And  loved  to  dream  bewildered  by  their  side!" 

E  WILL  suppose  that  the  traveller  has 
reached  the  village  of  Niagara  Falls,  se- 
lected his  temporary  home,  secured  his 
room,  attended  to  the  safe  deposite  of  his 
luggage ;  and  is  now  anxious  and  impatient 
to  visit  the  grand  cataract,  and  see  the  wonderful  scenes, 
about  which  so  much  has  been  said  and  written,  but  which 
he  is  now,  for  the  first  time,  about  to  behold.  Is  it  so, 
reader?  —  Well,  we  are  ready  to  conduct  you.  On 
leaving  your  hotel,  turn  to  the  left,  and  continue  down 
Main.8treet,  till,  passing  the  massive  foundation  of  the 
Niagara  Falls  Hotel,  and  turning  around  it  to  the  left, 
the  depot  of  the  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls  Railroad  is  be. 
fore  you.  Proceed  directly  on  by  the  depot,  and  diagon. 
ally  through  the  grove  of  trees  beyond  it,  inclining  to  the 
right,  and  keeping  along  the   brow  of  the  upper  bank  or 


■I  J ) 


vl 


ii 


i'< 


i  ■;! 


k 


I 


'ji? 


il 


70 


tourist's  companion 


Front  view  of  the  Falla —  Best  point  of  view 


ridge,  to  the  river.  Having  reached  this  spot,  you  are 
now  at  Prospect  Point,  and  the  object  of  your  eager 
curiosity  is  at  hand. 

You  stand  upon  the  brow  of  the  precipice,  and  the 
cataract  is  before  you.  Heavens,  what  a  scene!  The 
river  rolls  by  in  the  sunlight  like  a  ruffled  sea  of  silver, 
two  hundred  feet  beneath  the  cliff  from  which  you  look 
down,  bounded  on  either  side  by  huge  frowning  walls  of 
limestone,  crested  by  smiling  villages,  fair-fields,  and 
clustering  forest  trees,  stretching  away  in  the  distance. 
The  agitated  and  heavy  abyss,  the  clouds  of  rising  spray, 
the  flashing  snowy  sheets  hanging  between  sea  and  sky, 
the  dark  clifl's  and  islands  that  bound  and  divide  them, 
the  ocean  of  tumbling  waters  that  seem  sporting  above 
and  beyond  the  precipice,  and  come  dancing  over  the 
cataract  to  the  music  of  its  everlasting  roar,  together 
form  a  scene,  compared  to  which  the  ruins  of  Balbec  or 
Palmyra,  the  Pyramids  of  Egypt,  or  the  temples  of  Greece 
and  Rome,  are  but  the  toys  and  foot-ball  of  time.     - 

The  best  view  of  the  Falls,  on  the  American  side,  is 
from  this  point.  Table  Rock,  the  Horse-shoe  Fall, 
Iris  Island,  the  Central  Fall,  the  American  Fall,  the  rapids 
and  Islands  above,  and  the  abyss  and  river  below,  are 
all  within  sight ;  but  of  the  Horse-shoe  Fall  the  view  is 
distant  and  partial.  In  fact,  there  is  no  complete  view  of 
the  cataract  on  the  American  .  sideFrom  the  opposite 
shore  only,  can  Niagara  be  seen,  in  all  its  parts,  and  in 
all  its  sublime  majesty,  at  a  single  glance.  But  that  one 
view,  grand  and  overwhelming  as  it  confessedly  is,  is 
almost  the  only  one  on  the  Canada  shore.  There  are, 
it  is  true,  many  modifications  of  it,  dependant  upon  the 


mm 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


71 


Prospect  Point  —  American  Fall. 


points  from  which  it  is  observed;  but  it  is  still  the  same 
in  all  its  leading  features,  and  has  a  strange  oneness  about 
it,  that  awes  even  more  than  its  interests.  The  eye  and 
the  mind,  pained  by  its  trancendant  vastness  and  sublimi. 
ity,  can  scarcely  dwell  long  upon  it,  without  some  interval 
of  repose. 

On  the  American  side,  on  the  contrary,  while  there  is 
no  one  view  of  the  cataract  so  grand  and  perfect,  there 
are  many  of  different  parts,  each  exceedingly  beautiful 
and  impressive;  and  such  a  variety  of  river  and  forest 
scenery,  that  the  attention  is  diverted  from  one  object  to 
another,  —  something  new  and  fresh  is  presented  at  every 
turn,  the  eye  is  delighted,  and  the  mind  excited  by  a 
constant  succession  of  pleasing  and  august  appearances, 
—  and  thus  a  delicious  interest  is  kept  up,  which  seems 
to  wile  away  the  hours;  and  while  lovely  and  striking 
images  are  fast  crowding  upon  the  eye  and  mind,  they 
are  both,  as  it  were,  refreshed  and  renovated  by  novelty 
and  change. 

From  Prospect  point,  having  looked  at  the  glorious 
scene  as  long  as  you  choose,  advance  to  the  very  brink  of 
the  cataract,  at  Prospect  Place.  Here,  standing  on  a 
projecting  crag,  and  holding  by  the  dwarf  cedars  that 
fringe  it,  you  can  look  directly  down  at  the  awful  depth, 
the  huge  blocks  of  stone,  the  rock-dashed  spray  and 
foam,  the  shivering  sheet,  and  the  heavy  abyss,  and  up 
at  the  Falls,  and  particularly  the  American  cascade,  of 
which  you  have  a  capital  view,  though  not  the  best. 

The  American  Fall  is  characterized  by  an  irregularity 
that  gives  it  a  wild  and  singular  beauty.     The  outline  is 


H 


' 


«. 


1 
I 

i 

I 


r 


;■'( 


hii 


It    Xli^!     ,: 


72 


tourist's  companion. 


American  Fall. 


far  projecting  and  deeply  indented,  yet  with  no  very 
abrupt  transitions,  and  certainly  no  monotonous  parallels. 
The  water  flows  over  it  in  a  broad  billowy  stream,  and  is 
thrown  out  by  craggy  points  in  a  hundred  places,  so  that 
it  passes  down  in  a  glorious  snow-white  drapery,  wreath, 
ing  into  gracef  1  fleecy  folds,  and  possessing  so  much 
variety  with  so  complete  a  unity,  that  it  not  only  awes 
but  delights,  and  you  almost  forget  its  immensity  in  the 
contemplation  of  its  beauty.  Near  the  shores,  where  the 
water  is  shallow,  the  stream  ripples  along  pure  and  clear 
as  chrystal,  and  falls  from  the  brink  in  a  shower  of  spark. 
Ung  brilliancy.  Large  rocks  lay  piled  up  at  the  foot  of 
the  precipice,  where  it  is  evident  they  have  fallen  from 
the  dizzy  height,  and  the  descending  torrent  dashing 
against  them,  flashes  up  in  foam  and  spray.  The  river 
below  rolls  awoy  to  the  right,  like  an  emerald  sea  cares, 
sing  the  sunbeams,  till  it  is  lost  to  the  view  in  its  deep  and 
devious  course  ;  and  the  bold  bank  rises  opposite,  black, 
ragged  and  impending,  with  the  Clifton  House  sitting  in 
swan.like  whiteness  on  its  fearful  summit,  like  Hesper  on 
the  gloomy  brow  of  night. 

Mr.  Ware,  a  very  clever  and  intelligent  man,  has  an 
observatory  on  the  ferry  house,  scarce  a  dozen  steps  from 
Prospect  Place,  where  you  have  a  fine  view  of  the  same 
scenes,  from  a  more  elevated  position.  He  has  also  canes, 
refreshments,  and  many  other  articles  for  sale,  and  is 
entitled  to  a  generous  share  of  patronage. 

Having  looked  at  the  Falls  as  long  as  you  desire,  from 
these  places,  pass  up  the  river  along  its  shore,  feasting 
your  eyes  upon  the  wild  waters,  and  the  splendid  scenery 


m 


1      ' 

!  j 

?■ 

■     :■; 

1 

■1 

i-' 

!  ■'■ 

!  ^ 

:s 

I 

■? 

•   iS^ 

1    ; 

^ 

1 

1(1',*  i. 

I 

i^ 

1 

?   '.  1 
1 

,(■ 

»■•  ''fl  '.     ■  I 


]'■'. 


f 


III 


et 
at 


a( 


"'vT^ 


^''^^^ 


1  '^- 

H  ^^ 

Hn    *M 

i  H 

ijii  < 

E  TO   1 

\'\'    'O 

0 

BKI 

\ 


TO  NIAGARA    FALLS. 


73 


Bath  Island  —  Bridges. 


of  banks  and  islands,  till  you  reach  the  bridge  leading 
from  the  American  shore  to  Bath  Island  —  from  which 
you  have  a  magnificent  view  of  the  rapids,  dashing  and 
foaming  beneath  and  around  you.  The  water  drives 
along  with  such  immense  velocity  and  force,  that 
one  can  scarcely  conceive  how  this  bridge  could  have 
been  built.  Only  sixty-four  rods  above  the  cataract,  and 
in  the  very  rush  and  whirl  of  the  mad  torrent,  it  is  no 
wonder  that  strangers  inquire  with  an  eager  curiosity  how 
it  was  possible  to  construct  it  in  so  dangerous  and  difficult 
a  place.     The  modus  operandi  was  this;  — 

An  abutment  of  proper  size  and  solidity  was  first  made; 
then  two  large  and  long  timbers  were  projected  far  over 
it,  the  hinder  ends  of  which  were  firmly  secured  by  piling 
on  tons  of  weight.  Upon  these  timbers  planks  were  then 
laid,  and  a  temporary  bridge  thus  formed,  from  the 
extremity  of  which  large  stones  were  let  down  into  the 
stream,  till  the  pile  rose  above  the  water,  when  a  firm 
pier  was  built  around  it,  by  framing  timber  together, 
sinking  them,  and  filling  up  with  stone.  Tliis  pier  and 
the  abutment  were  then  joined  hy  a  section  of  the  per- 
inanent  bridge,  firmly  and  strongly  built.  The  lon^^ 
timbers  were  then  again  thrust  forward,  and  a  second 
pier  made,  and  united  to  the  first,  by  another  section  of 
the  bridjifc.  Proceeding  in  this  manner  from  pier  to  pier, 
(he  whole  bridge  was  finally  constructed,  and  a  safe  and 
easy  comniuniciition  established  to  Bath  Island.  By  the 
same  process,  Bath  Island  was  connected  with  Iris  Island, 
by  a  similar  bridge,  and  the  object  accomplisht'd  —  Iris 
Island  being  now  united  to  the  main  land,  and  rendered 
accessible  to  all. 


4 


11 


«'l! 


liij 


n 

1 

B 

5t4 

M    1 

8| 

m  , 

1'  i 

■.  ► 

$ 

1 

\                f 

1      ^'     ' 

1 

!      1 

i    ! 

1 

!l 

74 


TOURIST  8    COMPANION 


Jacobs'  MusRum  —  Curiosities. 


The  first  bridge  to  Iris  Island  was  built  by  General 
Whitney,  in  1817.  It  was  some  distance  farther  up  the 
stream,  and  was  carried  away  by  the  ice,  in  the  spring  of 
the  following  year.  The  present  one  was  erected  the 
ensuing  summer,  by  the  brothers  Porter,  who  are  entitled 
to  great  credit  for  their  enterprise  and  ingenuity  in  design, 
ing  and  executing  a  work  of  such  magnitude  and  utility. 
The  whole  exfent  of  bridge  is  forty.four  rods, — twenty- 
eight  rods  to  Bath  Island,  and  thence  sixteen  rods  to  Iris 
Island, — the  cost  about  sixteen  hundred  dollars.  In  1839 
the  whole  bridge  was  thoroughly  examined  and  rr^paired, 
and  is  now  in  a  most  secure,  substantial,  and  perfect 
condition. 

At  Bnfh  Island  register  your  name,  and  pay  the  toll, 
tvventy.five  cents,  which  will  give  you  a  right  to  pass  and 
repass  as  often  as  you  choose  during  the  year,  with'  ur  | 
further  charge.  The  toll. house  is  kept  by  the  worthy  and 
accommodating  Mr.  Jacobs,  who  has  collected  quite  a 
little  museum  of  curiosities  of  different  kinds,  and  disposes 
of  canes,  specimens,  bead-work,  etc.,  of  which,  with 
refreshments,  he  keeps  a  large  assortment  for  sale. 

Among  the  curiosities  to  be  seen  here,  is  a  molar  tooth 
of  the  mastodon,  which  was  found  near  the  rail. road, 
thirteen  and  a  half  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  earth. 
It  is  in  good  preservation  —  the  enamel  nearly  perfect  — 
and  but  little  worn.  How  it  came  in  the  place  where  it 
was  discovered,  is  a  mystery.  It  must  have  been  there 
many  ages,  as  evinced  by  the  depth  from  which  it  was 
exhumed,  and  the  firm  texture  of  the  strata  in  which  it 
was   embedded.      The  huge    animal    to  whom    it    once 


'^m 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


75 


Ifllands  at.  the  FaHs. 


belonged,  was  doubtless  young,  and  probably  died  while 
on  a  visit  to  the  cataract ; — but  this  is  a  mere  speculation. 
We  do  not  know  that  any  similar  fossil  remains,  have 
ever  before  been  found  in  this  vicinity. 

Ship  and  Brig  Islands, — so  called,  because  their  shape, 
and  the  inclination  of  several  trees,  gave  them  a  fancied 
resemblance  to  such  vessels,  —  lie  just  above  Bath  Island, 
with  which  the  former  is  connected  by  a  foot-bridge,  which 
though  slight,  and  seemingly  frail,  is  perfectly  safe.  A 
gate  adjoining  the  toll-house,  opens  upon  the  path  leadi  g 
directly  to  it. 

These  beautiful  islands  are  among  the  most  lovely 
retreats  of  earth.  Sleeping  quietly  in  the  midst  of  the 
wild  mad  rapids,  of  which  they  command  most  excellent 
views  ;  covered  with  a  luxuriant  forest  growth  of  vines 
and  trees,  forming  dehghtful  arbours,  carpeted  with  grass, 
moss,  and  flowers,  canopied  by  the  thickly  clustering 
foliage,  and  provided  with  comfortable,  thougii  rustic 
seats,  they  seem  sacred  to  innocence,  nfTcction,  and 
friendship;  —  like  ti»e  love-spots  of  life,  looking  raptu- 
rously  through  a  sea  of  care  and  trouble.  Pity  that  the 
bridge  uniting  these  two  sweet  little  islands,  was  des. 
froyed,  —  it  should  be  rebuilt  without  delay. 

Ship  Island  has  sometimes  been  called  the*'Lorer's 
Retreat,"  and  certainly  a  more  appropriate  name  could  not 
be  found,  as  any  one  will  confess  v/ho  pays  a  visit  to  its 
endearing  seclusions.  Of  all  pinrrs  in  the  world,  it  seems 
the  best  for  that  delicate  and  difiicult  task  —  "  rorriNo 
THE  QUESTION," — for  a  lady  could  hardly  say  •*  no  "  with 
the  rapids  rolling  and  roaring  around  her,  and  the  very 


it' 


\ 


I 


I 


if'  il 


I' 


li; 

I.' 

i  I 


■    i  ■ 

i        Jj 


':    7 


I' I 


76 


TOURIST'S  COMPANION 


Islands  at  the  Falls. 


genius  of  the  place  seeming  to  whisper  **  it  is  not  good 
to  be  alone."  But  the  reader  is  perchance  no  lover,  and 
as  he  is  impatient,  we  hasten  on  to  Iris  Island. 


J  If!. 
I  V: 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


77 


CHAPTER    IX. 

IRIS  ISLAND  —  NAMES,  INITIALS  AND  DATES  ON  THE  TREES  —  THE 
HOO'S  BACK — CENTRAL  FALL —  PROSPECT  ISLAND  —  VIEW  OF  THE 
AMERICAN  FALL  —  OTHER  ISLANDS  —  PROFILES  ON  THE  ROCK  — 
RAINBOW  —  TERRAPIN  BRIDGE  AND  ROCKS  —  IIORSE-SHOE  FALL  — 
PROSPECT  TOWER. 

"  Bright  Isle!  to  the  waves  that  are  danhing  around, 
To  the  mad -leaping  torrents  tliat  wildly  resound, 
Thy  fame  and  tiiy  beauty,  thy  costume  and  crown, 
Thy  gem  npangled  robe,  and  thy  name  of  renown. 
Thou  dost  owe  — and  the  glory  tliat  hallows  thy  foim, 
Thus  born  of  the  rock,  wave, and  air  buttie-storm, 
Exalts  thee  above  all  the  isles  of  the  sea, 
By  the  terrible  splendors  reflected  on  thee; 
Yet  the  grandeur  it  gives  is  allied  to  decay, 
Agd  'tis  gnawing  tliy  life  with  its  foam-teeth  away." 

RIS  ISLAND,  commencing  at  the 
lead  of  the  rapids,  extends  to  the  precipice, 
of  which,  as  before  slated,  it  forms  a  part, 
[t  is  about  half  a  mile  in  length,  eighty  rods: 
wide,  and  contains  over  sixty  acres  of  arable 
land.  It  is  sometimes  called  "Goat  Island,"  and  obtained 
that  appellation  from  the  following  circumstance.  A  Mr. 
Sfedman,  then  resident  at  Schlosser,  in  1770  placed  a 
variety  of  animals  upon  if,  and  among  others  a  number 
of  goats.  Of  these,  a  bearded  patriarch  was  the  only  one 
who  survived  the  severity  of  winter,  and  he  remained  for 
a  long  time  its  sole  occupant.  Its  more  appropriate  name 
of  "  iris  Island  "  is  derived  from  the  beautiful  rainbows 
always  to  be  seen  from  it  in  sunny  weather.  A  portion 
of  the  Island  has  been  cleared  off,  and  a  garden  enclosed, 
in  which  they  are  some  excellent  fruit  trees,  a  variety  ot 


».^ 


I 


A    .' 


n 

i 


n 


I 


i  i 


'i^ 


>^l 


ll 


78 


tourist's  companion 


Iris  Island — Early  Dates— Hog's  Back. 


I 


plants  and  flowers,  and  a  fish  pond.  The  major  part  is 
still,  however,  covered  with  a  fine  forest  growth,  which 
is  held  sacred  from  the  stroke  of  the  spoiler — and  through 
the  dense  foliage  of  which,  the  rays  of  the  sun  find  it  in 
many  places,  almost  impossible  to  penetrate.  It  is  cool, 
shady,  and  pleasant;  and  is  the  object  of  unceasing  admi- 
ration.  Comfortable  scats  are  placed  at  the  most  import- 
ant points,  where  ihe  visiter  can  sit  at  ease,  and  luxuriate 
in  the  beautitul  and  sublime  scenes  presented  to  his  view. 

The  trunks,  and  even  high  branches  of  the  trees,  are 
covered  with  names,  initials,  and  dates;  some  fresh  to 
appearance,  and  others  almost  obliterated  by  time,  decay, 
and  the  growing  bark.  Most  people  desire  to  leave  some 
memorial  of  their  visit,  as  a  souvenance  to  others,  in 
return  perhaps,  for  the  pleasure  they  have  derived  from 
a  like  reincmbrancc. 

Tiie  earliest  date  to  any  name  yet  found  upon  the  trees, 
which  may  be  considered  authentic,  is  said  to  be  17G9. 
There  are  some  professedly  earlier,  l)ut  they  are  supposed 
to  have  been  dated  back  from  an  impulse  of  puerile  vanity. 
Xear  the  cataract,  on  the  American  side,  there  are  names 
chiselled  upon  the  rocks,  blearing  date  1711,  17;2G,  1715, 
and  later,  which  are  believed  to  be  genuine. 

Upon  leaving  the  bridge  from  Batli  Island,  turn  to  the 
right,  aiid  pass  along  the  bank  of  Iris  Island  to  the  Hog's 
Hack,  —  a  narrow  ridge  so  named  from  its  shape  —  at  its 
lowest  cxiremity.  From  this  point,  you  have  a  fine  view 
of  the  Ci  ntral  Fall,  the  American  Fall,  the  river  below, 
and  tbe  i)ic!uref^(iue  scen(>ry  through  which  it  Hows.  At 
the  farthest  poi/)l  of  the  stream  you  see  a  small  white  spot 


f! 


"^ 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


79 


Hog's  Back  — Central  Fall. 


like  a  speck  of  foam :  it  is  the  commencemeni  of  the 
Whirlpool  rapids,  and  is  nearly  two  miles  distant. 

The.  Central  Fall  is  formed  by  a  small  portion  of  the 
river — cut  off  by  Prospect  Island  from  the  American 
branch, —  which  rolls  in  a  clear,  beautiful  and  sparkling 
volume  to  the  precipice,  where  it  bounds  away,  like  a 
gladsome  atid  fearless  thing,  in  a  smooth  and  almost 
unbroken  sheet.  You  gaze  upon  it  with  delight,  and  des- 
cending  to  the  verge  of  the  abyss,  if  your  limbs  be  steady 
and  your  nerves  firm,  you  maysee  itschrystal  and  snowy 


vii:w  FROM  no(i's  back. 


column  full  far  down,  till  it  loses  itself  in  the  misis  that 
curl  up  from  its  base.  It  is  bcJiind  this  cascade,  nnd  under 
the  rock  upon  which  you  stand,  liiat  the  Cave  of  the 
Winds,  of  which  an  account  will  be  presently  given,  is 
situated.     The  Central  Fall  — called  also  from  its  shape, 


I 


'  !!( 


.  <' 


h 


-H.  ^1 


I 


I:  ' 


I 


r     > 


I  i 


m 


'i  I 


80 


tourist's  companion 


Luna  Islanii  —  Singular  Phenomenon. 


the  Crescent  Fall, — is  about  twenty  yards  in  width,  and 
the  descent  is  greater  than  at  any  other  part  of  the 
cataract. 

Prospect  —  or  Luna  ^Island,  is  a  lovely  sequestered 
spot,  embowered  with  trees,  where  the  eagles  were  wont 
to  build  their  nests,  ere  the  foot  of  man  had  profaned  its 
holiness.  A  commodious  bridge  conducts  you  to  this 
pretty  little  island,  where  the  American  Fall  is  seen  to 
better  advantage  than  from  any  other  elevated  point. 
The  view  is  indeed  magnificent.  The  broad  stream 
plunges  down  the  precipice  at  your  very  feet,  and  the 
mighty  cascade  in  all  its  majesty  and  glory  stretches  out 
before  you.  See  its  varied  outline,  its  leaping  voluted 
columns,  in  colour  white  as  an  angel's  robe ;  its  whole 
snowy  front  flashing  down,  and  hiding,  as  if  too  bright 
and  pure  for  earth,  in  the  foam  and  spray  of  the  abyss 
beneath.  You  will  not  soon  forget  the  grandeur  and 
beauty  of  that  scene. 

There  are  several  other  islands  near,  which  might  easily 
be  renden  d  accessible,  and  which  the  pilgrim  of  curiosity 
would  be  delighted  to  visit.  But  now  he  can  only  admire 
them  at  a  distance,  and  retrace  his  steps  to  Iris  Island. 

From  the  Hog's  Back,  a  singular  phenomenon  was  for- 
merly presented.  It  was  that  of  three  profile  figures  of  the 
human  face,  upon  the  rock  under  the  edge  of  the  Ameri. 
can  Fall,  so  fully  and  clearly  defined,  that  one  could  hardly 
believe  them  to  be  the  work  of  chance,  and  not  of  the 
sculptor's  art.  They  were  of  gigantic  size,  but  well-pro- 
portioned, and  were   situated  as   shown  in  the  engrav- 


ing. 


The  first,  or  upper  one  represented  a  negro ;  the 


THF.  THUFF,  rPOFTT.KS. 


Pa/:^  W 


hi 


HS^M 


H    A 


fi 


1^ 


i 


f   t 
I' 


ti 


M 


% 

1          i'. 

■    y. 

1         '■ 

1   H 

li^ 

1   )[ 

*  ,■ 


^m 


nT 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


81 


View  from  Tenapin  Bridge. 


next,  a  young  and  well-favored  man,  of  the  European 
race,  and  the  lowest,  an  elderly  and  spectacled  personage 
of  the  same  descent.  They  appeared  to  be  of  the  male 
sex,  and  the  features  of  each  were  singularly  well  defined. 
These  singular  appearances  were  first  noted  about  three 
years  since,  and  have  been  seen  by  numbers.  Within  the 
past  two  years,  however,  the  action  of  the  water  and 
frost,  has  gradually  destroyed  all  vestiges  of  the  profiles. 

Having  concluded  your  observation  of  the  views  and 
curiosities  seen  from  this  point,  pass  up  along  the  bank  to 
the  British  Fall.  If  it  is  yet  early  in  the  day,  and  the 
wind  should  happen  to  be  up  the  river,  the  beautiful 
rainbow  that  smiled  upon  your  gaze  from  the  American 
Fall,  now  walks  by  your  side,  measuring  its  march  by 
your  own  pace. 

Pursuing  your  way  along  the  bank  with  the  rainbow 
for  a  companion,  you  have  a  noble  view  of  the  basin, 
the  Horse-shoe  Fall,  and  the  rapids  above.  The  vast- 
ness,  the  majesty  of  the  cascade  almost  fatigue  the  mind, 
in  its  efiort  to  grasp  that  which  seems  to  defy  calculation. 
You  hasten  to  Terrapin  Bridge,  *  to  its  rocks  at  its 
extremity,  and  stand,  with  the  fall,  the  thunder,  the  spray, 
and  the  abyss  at  your  feet.  And  what  are  you  ?  —  an 
atom  in  the  midst  of  immensity ;  a  breath  of  time  on  the 
brow  of  Eternity.  How  awful  is  the  scene  !  You  look 
up,  and  tempest. tortured  flood  seems  gushing  from  the 
far-off  skies,   rolling  *  horizon,  and  coming  with  a 

lightning-like  speed,  and  ;   whirlwind-hko  roar  down  the 
steep   declivity,  and  then  leaping  atone   fearful  plunge 


*  This  bridge  was  built  by  Gen.  "Whitney  In  1897.    It  needs  repairing  sadly. 

La 


? 


i      II 


H 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0     ^^  tii 


1.25 


■12 


1^    L£    12.0 


75 


>* 


'/ 


Photograpiiic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 
WnSTU.N.Y.  MSM 

(71«)«72-4»03 


^P^     ^\  WrS 


mm 


fl 


82 


tourist's  companion 


Curve  of  the  main  Fall. 


from  the  bright  world  of  the  upper  air,  to  the  unimagined 
depths  of  the  cloud-concealed  profundity.  There  is  no 
relaxation  of  the  force,  no  depletion  of  the  volume. 
Billow  urges  billow,  torrent  presses  torrent,  column 
crowds  on  column,  and  the  vast  mass  that  has  fallen 
leaves  not  the  less  to  descend,  nor  seems  the  more  to  fill 
up  the  chasm.  The  rapids,  the  cascade,  the  abyss,  the 
foam,  the  spray,  and  the  thunder ;  and  also  the  velocity, 
the  intumescence,  and  the  agitation,  are  all  objects  of 
separate  and  combined  wonder  and  admiration. 

The  curve  of  the  British  Fall  has  now  little  resem- 
blance  to  a  horse.shoe,  but  something  the  shape  of  a 
figure  5,  — with  the  horizontal  dash  at  the  top,  —  the 
point  or  lower  extremity,  resting  on  the  Table  Rock. 
Near  the  Canada  shore,  the  water  falls  in  fleecy,  snow- 
like masses,  white,  feathery,  and  shifting.  But  from 
thence  to  the  Terrapin  Rocks,  —  over  three-fourths  of 
the  whole  disto»^ce  —  itiolls  down  in  one  deep  unbroken 
volume,  grand,  solemn,  and  appalling.  The  immense 
breadth  of  this  Fall,  the  vast  quantity  of  water  poured 
down  the  precipice,  the  ocean  of  rapids  above,  the  foam- 
ing  sea  below,  the  eternal-curling  clouds  of  spray,  and 
the  deep  hoarse  thunder  pealling  ever  up,  produce  by 
their  conjoined  effect,  such  an  impression  of  power, 
energy,  and  majesty,  that  the  mind  recoils  from  its  con- 
templation, and  the  soul,  filled  with  awe,  bows  itself  in 
reverent  hu  i.ility,  feeling  the  Omnipotent  presence.  God 
is  here  made  so  manifest,  by  the  wonderful  display  of 
His  Almighty  power,  that  disbelief  vanishes,  pride  sinks 
abashed,  and  the  conviction  of  the  heart  and  soul  is  — 
How  great    is  God !  how  insignificant  am  I !  ~-  Ho   is 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


83 


Prospect  Towei  —  Remarks 


omnipotent ;  I  am  nothing !  The  cataract  seems  a  con- 
secrated place,  surrounded  and  filled  with  the  majesty, 
and  glory,  and  power  of  the  Eternal ;  and  the  spot  on 
which  you  stand  sacred  to  his  service.  Fear,  awe,  and 
reverence  are  emotions  which  this  sublime  scene  never 
fails  to  inspire.  The  God  of  the  Universe  is  felt  to  be 
almost  visible  present;  and  the  haughties  of  Earth's 
haughty  ones,  here  tremble  and  adore. 

From  the  Prospect  Tower,  —  a  round  stone  building, 
forty.five  feet  high,  ascending  by  winding  stairs,  which 
was  erected  in  1833  by  Judge  Porter,  — you  have  a  mag- 
nificient  view  of  the  great  Fall,  the  chasm,  the  rapids, 
Table  Rock,  and  the  surrounding  scenery,  You  can 
look  down  into  the  very  hollow  and  midst  of  the  vast 
cascade,  and  almost  see  the  elemental  chaos,  where  the 
mist,  the  spray,  the  foam  and  thunder  of  the  cataract, 
have  birth.  Majesty,  grandeur,  sablimity,  and  beauty, — 
the  glorious  garnitare  of  God, — are  here  spread  out 
before  you. 

When  you  have  wandered  and  admired  as  long  as  you 
choose  from  these  places,  ascend  the  bank,  rest  a  while, 
and  return  back  to  the  Biddle  Stair-case,  which  you 
passed  on  your  way  hither  from  the  Hog's  Back. 


jt« 


5  \ 


1  'i 


|M 


84 


TOURIST  S    COMPANION 


CHAPTER    X. 

BIDDLE  STAIR-CASE — ANGLING  —  SAM  PATCH— HIS  DEATH — FAN- 
CIED DANGER — BRITISH  FALL  —  LOWER  FISHING  ROCK  —  CAVE 
OF  THE  WINDS — FOOT  OF  PROSPECT  ISLAND  —  PASSING  UNDER 
THE  AMERICAN  FALL  —  CIRCUIT  OF  THE  ISLAND  —  ENCROACH- 
MENT OF  THE  RIVER — MOSS  ISLAND  —  THREE  SISTERS  —  HEAD 
OF  IRIS   ISLAND  —  MOUNDS   AND  SKELTONS. 

"What  august  scenes  salute  the  womiering  ej'e! 
Floods  that  seem  gushing  through  the  unriven  sky. 
Plunge  mf!  aly  down  from  glory  into  gloom  — 
Flash  up  in  spray,  and  thunder  from  the  tomb  — 
And  with  a  fail  decendmg  wall  of  waves, 
Bar  the  broad  stream,  and  viel  its  misty  caves  ; 
While  radiant  splendors  beautify  the  fall, 
And  Echo,  answering  to  the  cataract's  call, 
Leaps  like  a  hving  thought  from  rock  to  rock  — 
Shadow  of  sound,  and  daughter  of  the  shock !" 

T  W  A  S  long  a  desirable  but  difRcult  mat- 
ter  to  reach  the  sloping  bank,  below  the 
precipice,  at  the  lower  end  of  Iris  Island, 
which  prior  to  the  year  1829,  could  only 
be  attained  by  coming  up  in  boats  from  the 
lerry.  In  the  summer  of  that  year,  a  convenient  stair- 
case was  erected,  at  an  expense  of  three  hundred  dollars, 
by  the  munificence  of  Nicholas  Biddle,  Esq.,  the  cele- 
brated financier ;  by  which  a  safe  and  speedy,  though 
somewhat  tiresome  passage  is  nflforded  to  the  various 
scenes  of  interest  at  the  foot  of  the  Island,  which  are 
among  the  most  grand  and  curious  in  this  region  of 
wonder. 

A  steep  declivity  of  about  forty   feet,  rendered  practi. 
cable  by  a  rude,    but  strong   flight   of  common    stops. 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


85 


Btddle  Staircase —  British  Fall. 


leads  down  to  the  head  of  the  Biddle  Stair-case  —  as  it  is 
very  properly  called  —  which  is  in  a  form  of  a  hexagon,! 
enclosing  traingular  steps  that  wind  spirally  around  a  | 
large  and  solid  oak  shaft,  resting  firmly  on  a  durable 
foundation,  and  securely  fastened  to  the  rock  on  top. 
The  steps  are  ninety  in  number,  aud  the  Stair-case  about  j 
eighty  feet  high  — from  its  base  to  the  river,  the  descent 
is  eighty  feet,  or  from  the  top  of  the  bank,  one  hundred 
and  eighty.five  feet.  One  of  the  finest  places  in  the 
country  for  angling,  is  at  this  point  of  the  river,  where 
many  varieties  of  fish  are  often  caught  in  great  abundance. 
It  was  here,  that  the  celebrated  Sam  Patch  made  two 
successful  leaps  from  a  platform  ninety-seven  feet  high,  in 
the  fall  of  1829,  shortly  after  the  Stair-case  was  com- 
pleted.  This  daring,  but  unfortunate  individual,  subse- 
quently made  two  leaps  at  the  Genesee  Falls,  from  a  still 
greater  elevation  ;  the  last  of  which,  from  a  height  of 
one  hundred  and  twenty.five  feet,  proved  fatally  disas- 
trous.    He  was  seen  no  more. 

From  the  foot  of  the  stair-case,  well-worn  paths  lead 
up  to  the  British  Fall,  where  a  most  beautiful  and  awe- 
inspiring  scene  is  witnessed ;  and  down  to  the  Central 
Fall,  and  the  Cave  of  the  Winds,  where  views,  if  possi- 
ble, even  more  grand  are  beheld. 

Properly  equipped,  you  descend  the  stairs,  from  the 
head  of  which  you  have  a  noble  view  of  the  Horse-shoe 
Fall;  and  pass  up  the  stream  to  the  grand  cascade.  This 
course  is  advised,  because,  usually,  a  person  gets  so  thor. 
oughly  drenched  in  the  Cave  of  the  Winds,  that  dry 
clothing  is  an  object  of  immediate  desire,  and  it  is  there, 
fore  best  to  visit  that  place  the  last,  before  a  change  of 


i 

i 


0-f 


II 


III 


!  .    I  '' 


h'  II 


I 


■ 

I 

'^1  ^  ^ 

i 

i 


lilir 


'■■  i, 

■ 


- '       ■  i 

1  & 

ll 

86 


tourist's  companion 


Overhanging  Rocks  —  foot  of  the  Cataract. 


apparel.  As  you  advance  along  the  pathway  at  the  foot 
of  the  cliff,  with  the  vast  mass  of  ragged  rocks  impending 
above  your  head,  and,  apparently,  threatening  instant 
destruction,  it  will  be  strange  if  you  do  not  feel  a  deep 
sense  of  danger.  Innumerable  pieces  of  stone  seem  as 
if  on  the  very  point  of  tumbling  down  ;  and  all  around 
you  lie  the  broken  fragments  that  at  different  times  have 
fallen.  But  there  is 'little  fear:  —  among  the  thousands 
and  tens  of  thousands  of  persons  who  have  sauntered 
along  the  path  you  are  treading,  not  one  has  been  injured. 
Only  a  single  accident  of  the  kind  is  known  ever  to  have 
occurred,  and  that  happened  near  the  Central  Fall. 


1 1 


VIEW   FROM   BIDDLE  STAIRS. 

You  approach  the  fool  of  the  cataract,  and  look  up  at 
the  high  ovcr-hanging  cliff,  the  Terrapin  Rocks,  almost 
poised  upon  the  dizzy  brink,  and  the  fur-falJin^  torrent, 
that  comes  plunging  down,  dashed  to  foam  and  spray  on 
the  huge  masses  of  lime-stone,  that  lie  heaped  around, 
having  evidently  been  torn  from  the  verge  of  the  preci- 
pice, far  above  you.     A  splendid,  though  but  partial  view 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


87 


Reflections  —  Beamy  of  the  scene. 


of  the  British  Fall  may  be  obtained  from  the  rocks  at  the 
river-margin  below.  About  three-fourths  of  that  sublime 
cascade,  is  then  directly  before  you,  stretching  from  Table 
Rock,  across  the  heaving  and  foaming  sea  of  agitation, 
which  it  walls  with  a  flashing  flood,  in  its  huge  and  gigan- 
tic  proportions.  From  the  point  just  above  you,  the  water 
falls  in  white,  fleecy,  incoherent  columns,  like  tumbling 
masses  of  fresh-formed  snow  ;  light,  feathery,  and  fanciful 
in  its  changing  shapes,  and  lovely  in  its  fleeting  descent, 
as  a  fairy  dream  of  delight.  If  the  wind  is  favorable, 
you  can  pass  some  distance  behind  the  sheet,  and  feel  the 
sublimity  of  a  scene,  that  sets  description  at  defiance,  and 
fills  the  soul  with  emotion. 

From  these  displays  of  beauty  and  wonder,  retrace 
your  steps  to  the  Biddle  Stair-case,  and,  leaving  that 
behind  you,  pass  on  to  the  Central  Fall.  If  not  in  too 
much  haste,  descend  the  sloping  bank  to  the  Lower  Fish- 
ing.Rock  —  as  a  limestone  mass,  at  the  lowest  point  of 
the  island-shore,  is  called,  —  from  whence  the  best  view 
of  the  American  Fall  is  presented,  that  can  be  any  where 
obtained,  unless,  perhaps,  from  the  river  directly  in  front 
of  it.  The  whole  beautiful  cascade  hangs  like  a  flashing 
curtain  of  shifting  snow-wreaths  before  you,  waving  in 
fleecy  folds,  and  pillared  by  downy  columns  of  the  softest, 
clearest  white;  around  and  over  all  of  which,  a  genial 
glory  seems  to  float,  bright  and  pure  as  the  hope  and  faith 
of  an  angel-choir.  The  scene  is  lovely  beyond  all  con- 
ception. Nothing  on  earth  can  compare  in  that  respect 
with  the  American  Fall,  as  seen  from  this  spot.  Vast  as 
it  is,  you  do  not  observe  its  size  ;  lofty  as  it  is,  you  take 
no  note  of  its  height ;  august  as  it  is,  you  scarcely  perceive 


• 


!      1 


\v.]' 


Ill 


Ui 


.' 


:!A 


'I      ■ 


■■ 


t 

,'. 

11 

li 

_:] 

■I 

1 

,            F 

88 


tourist's  companion 


Entrance  tu  the  Care  of  the  Winds. 


its  grandeur  ; — its  surpassing  loveliness,  and  transcendant 
beauty,  alone  seem  to  engage  your  attention.  Finally, 
however,  all  these  become  blended  together,  and  you 
begin  to  realize  the  majesty,  as  well  as  the  loveliness ;  the 
sublimity,  as  well  as  the  beauty  of  this  incomparable 
cascade,  and  to  feel  that  the  power  as  well  as  the  good- 
ness of  the  Divine  Architect,  has  here  its  lasting  and  visible 
impress.  Long  will  that  glorious  scene  live  in  your 
memory,  hallowed  by  the  recollection  of  a  holy  rapture, 
and  an  earnest  worship. 

Reascend  the  sloping  bank  to  the  Central  Fall,  and  the 
Cave  of  the  Winds  is  before  you.  At  the  entrance,  you 
pause  to  look  up  at  the  projecting  cliff,  and  the  sparkling 
torrent  that  shoots  off  far  above,  falling  far  over,  and  far 
below  you ;  and  down  at  the  piles  of  rock  heaped  up 
around,  and  the  foam  and  the  spray  springing  to  light  and 
loveliness  from  the  rock-wave  concussion.  The  mighti. 
est  throes  give  birth  to  the  most  beautiful  things ;  and 
thus  the  rainbow  was  born  of  the  deluge. 

You  are  on  the  steps  descending  into  the  cavern.  The 
majesty,  the  sublimity  of  the  scene  cannot  escape  your 
notice,  and  you  will  feel  what  I  find  it  impossible  to 
express.  A  wall  of  rock  rises  frowning  on  one  side  ;  the 
falling  sheet  arches  the  other.  You  see  it  leap  from  the 
chff  far  above,  and  lash  the  rocks  far  below.  You  seem 
between  two  eternities,  with  a  great  mystery  before  you, 
whose  secrets  are  about  to  be  revealed.  What  a  moment 
is  this !  From  the  vast  cavern  in  to  which  you  are  pas. 
sing,  comes  the  sound  of  a  thousand  storm >«.  You  hear 
the  mad  winds  raging  around  the  walls  of  their  imprison, 
ment,  and  mingling  their  fearful  roar  with  the  reverbera- 


ENTRANCE  TO  CAVE  OF  THE  WIND?. 


Vnpe  8R 


:.irr 


:"r  I 


III 


.1    t. 

■i  ■    ■ 

•  1     .  jii;; 

1       1 

,|h| 

'    *     ''UK 

IM 


hi 


l> 


il 


II 


II 


«ir 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


89 


Cave  of  the  Winds  —  Interior. 


ting  thunders  of  the  cataract !  The  spray  falls  thick 
around  you,  and,  almost  overpowered  with  intense  emo- 
tion, you  hasten  on,  descend  the  steps,  reach  the  bottom, 
instinctively  retire  from  the  rushing  waters,  and,  having 
gained  the  centre  and  back  of  the  cave,  pause  to  look 
around.  You  seem  all  eyes,  all  ears,  all  soul  I  You  are 
in  the  sublime  sanctuary  of  Nature ;  her  wonderful  and 
fearful  mysteries  are  above,  beneath,  and  around  you. 
God  is  Infinite,  you  are  nothing !  this  is  His  temple,  you 
are  His  worshipper  I  It  is  impossible  in  such  a  place  to 
be  irreverent.  The  proudest,  here  is  meek;  the  haughti. 
est,  humble ;  and  the  loftiest,  lowly.  The  sights  and 
sounds  that  crowd  upon  your  gaze,  and  fill  your  ears,  will 
be  remembered  to  the  latest  day  of  your  life ;  nor  will 
the  emotions  that  swell  your  bosom,  and  thrill  your  very 
soul,  be  ever  forgotten. 

The  Cave  of  the  Winds  has  long  been  known,  and  by 
that  name,  than  which  none  can  can  be  more  appropri- 
ate. In  1834  it  was  first  entered  by  Messrs.  White  and 
Sims,  residents  of  the  village,  who  landed  from  a  boat  at 
the  foot  of  Prospect  Island,  and  from  thence  eflfected  an 
entrance,  though  with  much  difl[iculty.  Since  that  time, 
it  has  been  occasionally  penetrated  by  the  same  approach. 

This  cave  is  about  one  hundred  feet  wide,  thirty  feet 
deep,  and  over  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  high.  The 
bottom  is  composed  of  loose  stones  or  shale,  which  have 
fallen  from  above,  and  slopes  gradually  down  to  the  front, 
where  it  terminates  in  a  precipice  thirty-four  feet  high, 
from  the  water's  edge.  The  sheet  of  water  on  one  side, 
and  the  projecting  rock  on  the  other,  form  a  natural  and 
noble  arch,  combining  every  element  of  sublimity.     The 


,111 


'i  i\ 


i ..{  ., 


ill-  i 


i  ^ 


1 

Jj 

^^  " 

f 

i' 

•] 

,'    » 

90 


tourist's  companion. 


Foot  of  the  Crescent  Falls. 


thick  spray  rolls  along  the  floor,  curls  up  the  arching  wall, 
and  flies  across  the  ceiling  in  ceaseless  revolutions,  keep- 
ing the  air  in  constant  agitation,  and  adding  the  roar  of 
many  winds  to  the  echoing  thunders  of  the  cataract.  It 
is  a  sublime,  an  awful  place  —  fit  temple  of  Jehovah  ! 
No  language  can  describe,  no  tongue  express,  and  no 
pen  record  the  solemnity,  the  grandeur,  the  sublimity  of 
the  scene,  or  the  emotions  which  it  excites. 

Between  the  Central  and  American  Falls,  and  at  the 
foot  of  Prospect  Island,  there  is  a  narrow  vacant  splice, 
bounded  and  over-arched  by  the  tumbling  torrent,  from 
which  grand  views  are  presented  of  these  two  cas- 
cades —  that  of  the  latter,  is  particularly  fine.  Here  you 
may  rest  yourself,  or  ramble  over  the  huge  rocks, 
in  the  pure  air,  with  the  bright  river  and  blessed 
sky  before  you,  and  the  dark  rock  above  ;  and  then 
pass  under  the  American  sheet  as  far  as  you  desire, 
or  dare.  It  is  a  frightful  place,  overwhelming  in  its 
gloom,  grandeur,  and  sublimity  ;  and  there  be  few  who 
have  ventured  far,  though  it  is  supposed  possible  to  pass 
quite  through  and  under  the  whole  cascade.  Returning 
hence,  ascend  the  Biddle  Stair-case,  to  the  bank  above, 
and  resume  your  ordinary  dress.  Rest  yourself  a  short 
time,  a  id  then,  proceed  up  the  river,  make  the  circuit  of 
the  Island.  Feast  your  eyes  again  as  you  pass  the  Horse- 
shoe Fall,  upon  its  wondrous  majesty,  and  beauty;  take 
another  look,  if  you  desire  it,  from  the  Terrapin  Rocks, 
Tower,  and  Bridge  ;  and,  re-ascending  the  banks,  con- 
tinue  your  walk  along  the  wave-washed  shore. 

A    short    distance  above    the  cataract   you   will   see 
where  the   Island   has   been   much  worn  away  by  the 


"*T^ 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


91 


Encroachments  of  the  River  — Wreck  of  the  Detroit. 

action  and  encroachment  of  the  river.  The  road  once 
passed  some  rods  to  the  right  of  it  where  it  now  is,  and 
has  been  cut  off,  as  you  will  perceive,  by  the  ever-wast- 
ing flood.  Large  trees,  which  grew  not  long  since  upon 
the  firm  earth  of  the  Island,  lie  prostrate,  with  their 
branching  tops  in  the  deep  stream,  and  their  roots  high 
upon  the  sloping  shore.  From  the  bank,  here  you  have 
a  splendid  view  of  the  rapids,  and  will  observe  the  mighty 
torrent  rolling  down  immense  ledges,  leaping  and  surging 
up  high  in  the  air,  and  wildly  rushing  and  testing  about 
—  a  mad  sea  of  commotion  ! 

You  will  also  observe  part  of  the  wreck  of  a  large 
vessel  lying  in  the  stream  nearly  opposite  this  point.  It 
is  all  that  is  now  left  of  the  Detroit,  the  flag  ship  of  Capt. 
Barclay,  which  with  other  vessels,  was  captured  in  the 
naval  victory  achieved  by  Commodore  Perry,  on  the  10th 
of  September,  1813.  It  was  brought  down  from  BuflTalo 
in  the  fall  of  1841,  to  be  sent  over  the  Falls,  but  in  pass- 
ing the  ledge  above,  was  dismasted,  and  broken,  and, 
disappointing  the  vast  crowds  collected  to  see  it  take 
the  final  plunge  down  the  cataract,  rested  not  far  from 
where  it  now  lies.  Piece  after  piece  has  been  torn  off 
and  carried  away  by  the  impetuous  torrent;  and  in  a 
short  time  there  will  not  be  a  fragment  left  of  the  noble 
vessel,  that  once  sent  its  booming  death-laden  thunders 
over  the  trembling  waves  of  lake  Erie,  in  a  glorious  strife 
for  conquest  and  renown. 

A  few  rods  further,  and  you  come  to  a  cluster  of 
islands  situated  in  the  midst  of  the  rapids  which  rage 
above,  between,  and  around  them.  There  are  four  of 
these  Islande,  though   to  appearance,   but  three.     The 


^ » 


i  :i  1 


if  I 
u}  •■■J. 

,('  ■'  % 


i 


':{ 


l\r 


H'i 


V  ii 


92 


tourist's  companion 


leltinds'—  Battling  PIrcm  —  Head  of  Grand  Island. 


nearest  one  is  called  Moss  Island,  from  the  quantities  of 
moss  that  completely  cover  it,  to  a  depth  of  from  ten  to 
fifteen  inches.  Between  this  and  Iris  Island,  there  is  a 
beautiful  cascade  —  a  cataract  in  miniature  —  which 
affords  one  of  the  finest  bathing  places  that  could  be 
wished.  The  outer  islands  are  called  the  **  Three 
Sisters,"  and  are,  as  yet,  inaccessible,  though  they  might 
be,  at  a  small  expense,  connected  with  each  other,  and 
with  Iris  Island,  and  would  be  desirable  places  of  resort, 
from  their  seclusion,  and  the  magnificent  views  they 
would  present  of  the  rapids,  in  which  they  lie. 

At  the  head  of  Iris  Island,  you  see  the  broad  river 
spread  out  before  you,  like  a  shining  sea;  with  Schlosser 
on  the  left,  Chippewa  far  off  to  the  right,  and  Grand, 
Navy,  and  other  Islands  in  the  dim  distance  above.  It 
was  here,  and  near  the  old  log  upon  which  you  are 
probably  now  sitting,  that  visiters  to  Iris  Island  were 
landed  from  boats,  before  the  bridge  was  built.  Such 
was  the  only  mode  of  reaching  it,  apd  the  passage  requir. 
ed  great  care,  skill  and  exertion,  and  was  of  course  ex. 
pensive.  The  Islands  was  therefore,  at  that  time,  a  terra 
incognita  to  most  persons — an  unattainable  object  of 
intense  desire.  They  could  see  that  it  was  beautiful,  that 
it  presented  grand  views  of  the  sublime  cataract  they  had 
come  from  afar  to  behold  ;  but  alas !  they  could  not  set 
foot  upon  its  velvet  surface,  repose  beneath  its  shady 
groves,  nor  witness  from  its  banks  the  marvellous  glories 
that  clustered  around  it,  and  in  the  midst  of  which  it  so 
sweetly  slumbered. 

Continuing  your  walk  around  the  Island,  you  mark 
the  commencement,  progress,  and  wild  violence  of  the 


TO   NIAGARA    FALLS* 


93 


Cottage  of  Francis  Abbott. 


American  rapids,  and  accord  them  the  meed  of  wonder 
and  praise.  At  length  you  reach  an  old  log  house,  with 
a  low  stone  addition  to  the  rear,  now  lone,  dreary,  and 
deserted.  It  was  here  that  Francis  Abbot,  the  Hermit  of 
the  Falls,  for  a  long  time  resided  :—>  of  this  singular 
and  unfortunate  individual,  we  shall  elsewhere  relate  all 
that  is  certainly  known. 


COTTAGE  OF  FRANCIS  ABBOTT. 

On  an  elevated  sandy  part  of  the  bank,  about  midway 
of  the  garden,  there  were  formerly  a  number  of  small 
mounds,  into  which  excavations  were  made,  some  years 
since,  and  human  remains  discovered.  They  had  been 
buried  in  a  sitting  posture,  and  each  individual  had  a 
seperate  grave.  None  of  the  skelions  were  found  per- 
fect, and  most  of  the  bones  crumbled  to  dust,  on  being 
exposed  to  the  air,  or  coming  in  contact  with  the  touch. 
No  rehcs  of  weapons  or  ornaments  were  observed,  and 
probably  none  had  ever  been  deposited.  ^ 

The  memory  of  the  age  in  which  these  people  lived  or 
perished,  has  passed  away,  and  tradition  is  silent  concern, 
ing  their  history  or  fate.  That  Niagara  was  held  in  a 
great  degree  sacred  by  the  Aborigines  is  certain ;  and 


m 


I, 


:fe 


''    I 


I 


^    I   I    III 


r 


!i 


i) 


94 


tourist's  companion 


Iris  Island  —  Aborigines. 


that  some  of  them  believed  the  home  of  the  Great  Spirit 
to  be  here,  is  unquestioned.  Probably,  Iris  Island  was, 
from  these  circumstances,  a  consecrated  spot,  where 
great  and  good  men,  who  were  loved  and  honoured  while 
living,  were  permitted  to  repose  when  dead  ;  and  where 
also,  the  fair  and  innocent,  who  were  cut  down  in  the 
greenness  of  youth,  and  the  bloom  of  beauty,  were 
allowed  to  bear  them  company.  But  this  is  mere  suppo- 
position,  for  nothing  h  or  can  be  known  of  the  persons 
here  buried,  or  the  time  of  their  interment,  except  that  it 
must  have  been  ages  ago.  This  is  proved,  by  the  condi- 
tion of  the  bones,  and  the  ignorance  of  all  the  neighbor, 
ing  Indian  tribes  upon  the  subject. 

Having  made  the  circuit  of  the  Island,  return  to  your 
hotel,  dine,  rest,  and  then  pay  a  visit  to  the  neighbouring 
dominions  of  the  British  Queen. 


J 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


95 


CHAPTER    XI. 

FERRY  STAIRS  —  CATLIN's  CAVE  —  OIANT  CAVE — VIEW  FROM  THE 
RIVER — ROAD  UP  THE  BANK  —  GRAND  VIEW  OF  THE  FALLS  — 
VIEW  FROM  TABLE  ROCK  —  TABLE  ROCK  —  DISMUPTIONS  —  VARIED 
APPEARANCE    OF    THE    FALL -^  BARNETt'S    ROOMS  —  STAIRCASE  — 

VIEW     FROM     BELOW— TERMINATION     ROCK MUSEUM CAM. 

OBSCU.  —  IRIS  ISLAND  AT   NIOHT. 

"  Not  in  the  pomp  of  temples  made  with  hands, 
Nor  where  in  pride  the  sculptured  marble  stands  — 
Where  pillared  aisles  their  laboured  lines  display, 
And  painted  casements  mock  the  imprisoned  day, 
Or  the  broad  column  swells  —  we  worship  Thee, 
Spirit  Almighty!  —  but  in  this  vast  shrine. 
Where  Nature  bids  her  elder  glories  shine. 
Fit  emblems  of  thine  own  eternity. 
Lonely,  and  wild,  and  vast!  O,  is  not  hers 
A  temple  meet  for  worship  ?  " 

HAVING  refreshed  yourself  by  rest  and 
food,  you  set  out  on  a  visit  to  Canada,  to 
see  the  magnificent  and  sublime  views  of 
the  Falls,  which  that  side  alone  presents. 
At  Prospect  Point  again  delight  your  eyes 
with  the  glorious  scene  that  first  met  your  gaze,  and  then 
pass  on  to  the  Ferry  Rail  Road,  or  stair  case,  which  you 
descend.  It  would  seem  to  have  been  almost  impossible 
to  get  down  this  precipice,  previous  to  the  Ferry  Stairs 
being  built,  but  the  feat  has  been  accomplished  in  several 
instances,  by  both  gentlemen  and  ladies.  The  passage, 
was,  however,  extremely  difficult,  and  the  public  is  much 
indebted  to  Judge  Porter  for  the  present  safe  and  commo- 
dious means  of  descent.  The  stairs,  which  were  first 
erected  in  1825,  having  become  unsafe,  from  old  age  and 


I    ■ 


r 


m 


I 


it,,;- 


I 


i  ! 


P 


nil 


f  I 


;  i 

1 

i 

I 


96 


TOURIST'S  COMPANION 


Railroad  to  the  bank  of  the  river. 


incessant  wear,  the  present  season  (1845)  Judge  Porter, 
projected  the  novel  idea  of  constructing  a  rail  road  from 
the  upper  surface  of  the  table  land  down  to  the  very 
water's  edge!      This  work,  now  nearly  finished,  was 
accomplished  by  first  blasting  out  a  deep  chasm  in  the 
primeval  rocks  on  the  bank  of  the  river  about  25  feet 
wide,  extending  back  about  one  hundred  feet  in  the  solid 
rock.     Down  this  chasm  at  an  angle  of  about  35  degress, 
is  constructed  an  incline  plane,  reaching  from  the  upper 
surface  to  the  river's  edge,  a  distance  of  320  feet:  on  the 
superstructure  is  a  double  track  for  rail  cars,  which  are  to 
be  moved  up  and  down  by  the  agency  of  the  mighty  cat- 
aract itself,  it  being  intended  to  divert  a  small  stream  from 
the  American  Fall  upon  an  overshot  wheel,  for  the  pur- 
pose  of  supplying  motive  power  to  this  novel  rail-way ;  — 
it  is  now  worked  by  horse  power.     A  commodious  and 
strong  stair.case  runs   parallel  witli   the  railroad,  so  that 
those  who  do  not  choose  to  make  use  of  the  one  can  use 
the  other.     No  additional  charge  is  intended  to  be  made 
to  those  who  pass  down  the  road  for  the  purpose  of  cros- 
sing  the  ferry.     About  half  way   down  the  railroad,  a 
flight  of  steps  turns  abrublly  to  the  right,  making  a  more 
easy  descent  to  the  river  ;  from  this  point  a  beautiful  view 
of  the  American  Fall  together  with  a  partial  one  of  the 
Horse-Shoe  Fall  and  Table  Rock  is  obtained.    From  the 
bottom  of  the  stairs,  or  rail.road  pass  up  along  the  sloping 
bank,  to  the  American  Fall,  of  which  you  have  an  excel- 
lent view ;  and  where,  if  the  wind  is  up  the  river,  you 
may  creep  down  the  rocks,  and  pass  some  distance  under 
the   sheet,   without   being  much    incommoded    by  the 
spray. 


I 


Ig 


TO   NIAGARA    FALLS. 


97 


Recently  discovered  caves. 


Two  caves  were  discovered  in  1825,  by  a  Mr.  Catlin 
of  Lockport,  one  of  which  bears  his  name,  and  is  unique. 
They  are  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  below  the  ferry, 
at  the  base  of  the  cliff.  The  passage  to  them  is  from  the 
foot  of  the  ferry  stair-case,  and  along  the  top  of  the  sloping 
bank  at  the  bottom  of  the  precipice ;  and,  though  not 
very  dangerous,  is  quite  rough  and  fatiguing.  You  can 
go  by  water  with  less  exertion  but  at  some  expense. 
The  principal  cave,  and  that  which  is  by  far  the  most 
curious,  is  a  round  hollow  in  the  centre  of  a  large  and 
nearly  spherical  rock,  formed  by  a  deposit  of  calcareous 
tufa,  from  the  drippings  of  lime-water  springs,  which  gush 
out  of  the  rocks  in  several  places  at  and  near  the  cave- 
The  cavity  is  about  six  feet  in  diameter,  and  may  be 
entered  by  a  circular  aperture,  scarcely  large  enough  to 
admit  a  medium  sized  man  ;  —  this  opening  is  about  four 
feet  from  the  bottom  of  the  rock.  When  first  discovered, 
the  cave  was  lined  with  stalactites,  many  of  them  very 
beautiful ;  but  they  have  all  been  long  since  removed. 
A  fine  spring  sparkles  along  the  bottom  of  the  cavity. 

The  other  cave,  sometimes  called  the  Giant  Care,  is 
beyond,  though  near  Catlin's,  and  some  distance  above  it 
in  the  rocks  ;  by  the  disruption  of  large  masses  of  which 
it  is  supposed  to  have  been  formed.  It  is  somewhat 
difficult  of  access,  but  will  repay  the  toil  of  climing.  A 
large  niche  in  the  precipice  shelters  the  entrance  to  it,  and 
a  lovely  spring  ripples  over  its  limestone  floor.  Mineral 
specimens,  some  very  fine, may  be  picked  up  in  the  vicinity 
of  these  caves,  and  among  others,  moss  in  every  stage  of 
petrefaction,  which  presents  an  extremely  curious  and 
interesting  appearance,  even  to  the  unlearned  in   the 


I   1^ 
0   ' 


\ 


Hi 


It    H?: 


hy 


m 


J  u 


vl 


98 


tourist's  companion 


Catlin'a  Cave  —  Ferrj'. 


science  of  stones  and  fossils.  A  visit  to  these  caves,  will 
amply  reward  the  trouble  of  getting  to  them  ;  but  they 
should  not  be  examined  to  the  exclusion  of  any  view  of 
the  cataract,  or  of  other  and  more  remarkable  scenes  and 
objects  hereafter  to  be  noted,  as  they  are  of  comparatively 
small  importance.  They  are  mentioned  in  this  connection, 
because  the  route  to  them  commences  from  the  ferry 
stairs ;  and  now,  whenever  you  choose  to  go  and  see 
them,  you  will  know  whence  to  start,  and  what  direction 
to  pursue. 

Returning  from  the  American  Fall  to  the  stairs,  and 
winding  down  the  sloping  bank,  you  are  soon  at  the 
Landing.  The  ferry  on  this  side  is  kept  by  Mr.  S.  L. 
Ware,  who  takes  every  pains  to  oblige  and  accommodate 
visiters,  and  whose  observatory  at  the  head  of  the  stairs, 
we  have  before  had  occasion  to  notice.  The  boats  used 
for  ferriage  are  large,  staunch,  and  commodious,  and  are 
propelled  by  the  sinewy  arms  of  a  single  person.  Not 
the  slightest  danger  is  to  be  apprehended,  and  the  passage 
is  effected  from  four  to  seven  minutes,  —  the  distance 
across  being  seventy-six  rods.  The  charge  is  reasonable: 
only  eighteen  and  three-fourths  cents  from  May  to 
November,  or  twenty.five  cents  from  November  to  May. 

Taking  your  seat  in  the  stern  of  the  boat,  the  ferry-man 
pushes  ofl',  and  you  are  afloat  on  the  bosom  of  the  abyss. 
The  eddies  curl  around  you,  and  the  currents  are  swift ; 
but  the  strong  limbs  o4  the  sturdy  rower  force  the  bark 
along  with  rapidity,  and  almost  before  you  are  aware  ot 
it,  you  find  yourself  in  the  middle  of  the  stream,  and  the 
boat  riding  gracefully  over  the  heavy  swells.  What  a 
scene  now  courts  your  eager  gaze  !     The  mighty  cataract 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


99 


View  from  the  River  below  the  Falls. 


in  all  its  sublimity  and  immensity  is  above  and  before 
you! 

You  are  in  the  nave  of  a  vast  temple,  whose  walls  are 
the  eternal  hills,  corniced  with  crags,  ornamented  with  a 
fret-work  of  trees,  shrubs,  flowers,  and  foliage ;  whose 
dome  is  the  blue  heaven;  and  whose  altar  is  the  mighty 
cataract,  draped  with  hangings  of  green  and  snow  ;  from 
the  unseen  base  of  which  clouds  of  incense  are  ascending 
to  the  skies,  and  bearing  up  the  solemn  peal  of  its  mist, 
hidden  thunder-toned  organ.  The  floor  is  of  emerald  and 
alabaster;  elements  are  the  ministers,  and  you  a  wor- 
shipper. This  temple  was  the  work  of  nature,  and  to 
the  God  of  Nature  erected.  Human  hands  co'ild  not  lift 
even  a  corner  of  its  veil ;  human  art  could  not  equal  the 
smallest  of  its  marvels ;  human  eyes  could  not  penetrate 
the  least  of  its  mysteries  ! 

A  vast  semicircle  of  cataracts  stretches  around  you, 
forming  a  scene  of  surpassing  splendor  and  sublimity. 
Huge  and  massy  walls  of  rock  are  on  either  side,  and  the 
shivering  skiff  in  vvliioh  you  sit,  floats  upon  the  surface  of 
a  sea,  fathomless,  convulsed,  and  immeasurable.  Endless 
torrents,  bursting  as  it  were  from  the  opened  heavens,  leap 
from  the  brow  of  the  tremendous  precipice,  plunge  head- 
long down  the  terrific  height,  and  lash  the  deep  profound, 
in  to  which  they  are  hurled,  to  foam  and  madness.  The 
sonorous  breathings  of  the  tortured  abyss  roll  up  and 
reverberate  in  thunder  pe^ls ;  and  air  and  earth  tremble 
at  the  shock  of  the  contending  floods.  Dense  clouds  of 
spray,  rolling  and  curling  up  in  shapeless  and  ever-varying 
forms,  conceal  the  meeting  of  the  waters,  and  majestically 
soar  aloft,  heaven-borne  on  the  wings  of  the  wind.     The 


]'■ 


hi 


I    i 


■I  I 


\ , 


!i 


s 


100 


tourist's  companion 


Canada  side  —  Carriage-way. 


sun,  shedding  refulgent  splendors  upon  the  glorious  scene, 
seems  girdled  with  a  radiant  halo  by  the  rising  mists ;  and 
rainbows,  broken  into  fragments  by  the  shifting  vapours, 
appear  and  vanish,  dazzle  and  dissolve,  on  every  side,  in 
quick  and  magic  succession. 

Lost  in  the  contemplation  of  such  sublimity  and  mag- 
nificence, the  moments  fly  unnoted,  and  the  Landing  is 
before  you,  where  the  red-vestured  sentinels  of  Queen 
Victoria  are  seen  pacing  back  and  forth  their  accustomed 
promenade.  If  an  American,  you  will  probably  endeavor 
to  convey  by  your  appearance  and  looks,  a  very  definite 
idea  of  your  Nation's  independence,  —  if  a  Briton,  your 
stature  will  no  doubt  increase  a  full  inch.  At  all  events, 
you  Will  pass  on  up  the  bank,  by  a  fine  carriage-road, 
which  was  constructed,  at  a  cost  of  about  five  thousand 
dollars,  by  Messrs.  Street  and  Clarke,  and  completed  in 
the  year  1827.  In  return  for  the  expense  incurred,  by  the 
formation  of  this  road,  the  government  of  Canada  West 
gave  those  gentlemen  the  sole  right  of  ferry  for  twenty- 
one  years.  It  is  a  very  smooth  and  pleasant  way,  and  the 
ascent  is  quite  gradual. 

From  the  top  of  the  bank,  and  along  it  toward  Table 
Rock,  but  at  no  one  particular  point,  the  best  and  grandest 
of  all  upper  views  of  the  Falls  is  presented.  The  eye 
here,  grasps  at  a  glance,  the  whole  mighty  measure  of  the 
cataract;  and  Niagara  in  all  its  beauty  and  glory,  in  all 
its  majesty  and  immensity,  is  spanned  by  a  single  look. 
It  is  before  you,  revealed  in  all  its  grandeur  and  extent,  in 
all  its  splendor  and  sublimity.  You  stand  entranced  and 
spell-bound.  Amazement  and  admiration  are  in  your 
gaze  ;  awe  and  reverence  in  your  soul.    It  is  a  scene  to 


r 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


101 


View  from  Table  Rock. 


linger  on,  and  long  you  linger,  turning  often  away  to  rest 
the  eye,  and  relieve  the  mind,  and  as  often  recurring  to  it 
with  increased  wonder  and  interest.  But  at  length,  you 
pass  on,  with  it  still  in  your  eye  and  mind,  to  Table  Rock; 
which  passing  the  Camera  Obscura,  and  the  Museum,  at 
length  you  reach.  The  view  of  the  Horse-shoe  Fall  from 
this  point,  is  indeed  magnificent. 

No  wonder  that  the  scene  from  Table  Rock  has  been 
lauded  and  extolled.  No  wonder  that  it  has  been  the 
ultima  thule  of  many  a  long  and  weary  pilgrimage.  It 
is  all  that  has  been  said  of  it,  and  infinitely  more: — words 
cannot  convey  an  idea  of  its  unearthly  sublimity  and 
grandeur.  The  sea  of  rapids  leaping  ane  tossing  above  ; 
the  vast  breadth  and  depth  of  the  raging  stream ;  the 
impetuous  rush  of  the  ocean-torrent ;  the  awful  plunge  of 
the  prodigious  volume ;  the  tremendous  concussion,  heard 
and  felt,  but  not  seen  from  the  covering  mists,  that  envel- 
ope  and  hide  the  crushing  appulsion  of  the  meeting  masses; 
the  pointed  spear-shaped  jets  that  shoot  far  up  from  the 
convulsed  bosom  of  the  heaving  and  surging  abyss ;  the 
multitudinous  whirling,  shifting,  convolving  clouds  of 
spray  and  vapour,  that  roll  heavily  up  and  load  the  unres- 
ting  air;  the  dark,  threatening  cliffs,  that  shut  in  the  vexed 
and  foam-covered  accumulation  of  floods,  in  the  angry 
gulf  below ;  the  resplendent  glories  shed  over  all  by  the 
burning  sun,  tinting  with  gorgeous  colours  the  sheet,  the 
stream,  and  the  spray,  wreathing  with  rainbow.hues  the 
fleecy  and  emerald  robes  of  the  grand  cascade,  and  arch, 
ing  the  fearful  chasm  with  a  zone  of  brightness  and  beauty; 
the  wild  hoarse  roar  of  the  mad  rapids,  and  the  deep 
booming  thunders   of  the   cloud-compelling  cataract — 


1  )( 


\      ] 


m 


ff 


1MI 


u 


;  I 


102 


tourist's  companion 


View  from  Table  Rock —  Fall  of  Rocks* 


these,  and  a  thousand  other  collateral  and  subordinate 
features,  combine  to  form  a  scene  which  appals  and  con. 
founds  the  observer,  while  it  attracts  and  rivets  his  wrapt 
and  eager  gaze.  God  of  Omnipotence  !  this  wonder  is 
Thy  work  ;  the  very  ground  is  holy  with  Thy  presence  I 
This  you  feel  —  must  feel  — though,  perhaps,  you  do  not 
speak  it.  Crowding  emotions  swell  the  bosom ;  thoughts 
that  defy  utterance,  fill  the  mind.  The  power  and  pres. 
ence  of  the  Almighty  seem  fearfully  manifest.  You  gaze, 
and  tremble  as  you  gaze  I 

Table  Rock  is  on  the  same  level  with  the  Fall,  and  is  a 
continuation  of  the  ledge  or  strata  from  which  the  torrent, 
flood  is  precipitated.  It  projects  over  the  bank,  and 
beyond  the  curve  of  the  cascade  to  a  considerable  dis- 
tance, and  from  this  circumstance,  derives  its  name  ; 
having,  in  some  respects,  a  tabular  aspect.  Creep  to  the 
edge  and  look  down,  — the  sensation  is  awful.  There  is 
nothing  but  the  invisible  and  imponderable  air  between 
the  thin  leaf>like  crag  which  supports  you,  and  the  massy 
blocks  of  limestone  that  lay  coacervated  more  than  one 
hundred  feet  beneath,  where  they  have  fallen  from  the 
dizzy  elevation  whence  you  look,  and  been  rent  and  scat- 
tered by  the  shock.  There  is  a  strange  and  indefinable 
fascination  in  the  terrible  depth  that  confronts  you, 

"Charming  tlie  eye  with  dread;" 

and  it  requires  an  effort  to  withdraw  from  that  horrible 
verge  of  danger  and  death. 

Table  Rock  was  formerly  of  much  greater  extent  than 
it  is  at  present ;  large  portions  of  the  cliff*  having  at  diff*. 
erent  times  been  broken  oflf,  and  dashed  to  pieces  by  the 
fall.     In   1818,  an  immense  mass, —  one  hundred  and 


■m 


^ 


m 


iMl 


:i 


AP. 


IP 

•        i 

1 K 

If 

1 

\ 

n 

j'W 

*-    id. 

! 

1 

''9 

■ 

*   ■■■'  M 

iiL 

1 

1             ; 

'  It-     I' 

r    1- 

1.1 ' 

■' 

V.  i 


-I 


Ti 


p 


u 


C3 


O 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


103 


British  Fall  —  changeof  form. 


sixty  feet  in  length,  and  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  broad, — 
was  torn  from  the  brow  of  the  bank,  hurled  down  the 
steep,  and  shattered  to  fragments  at  the  foot  of  the  preci- 
pice.  The  disruption  took  place  about  midnight,  and  the 
shock  of  its  fall  startled  and  awoke  the  inhabitants  lor 
miles  around,  by  whom  it  was  mistaken  for  that  of  an 
earthquake.  In  the  years  1828  and  *29,  other  smaljer 
portions  of  the  rock  fell ;  and  a  deep  fissure,  which  cannot 
but  be  observed,  embracing  within  its  circumference  an 
enormous  mass  of  rock,  shows  that  at  no  very  distant 
date  a  similar  catastrophe  may  be  expected. 

The  old  building  and  machinery  upon  Table  Rock,  were 
erected  for  the  purpose  of  forcing  water  up  the  high  bank 
to  the  City  of  the  Falls,  for  domestic  and  other  uses.  The 
project  was  found  to  be  impracticable ,  and  was  therefore 
abandoned. 

The  shape  or  outline  of  the  British  Fall,  is  undergoing 
almost  constant  change,  from  the  disruptions  of  large 
portions  of  the  ledge  or  cliff,  by  which  it  is  produced.* 
In  1678  it  was  nearly  straight  across.  Since  that  time,  it 
has  become  deeply  indented,  and  has  at  different  periods, 
taken  different  forms  of  curvature,  from  one  of  which  it 
derived  the  name  of  Horse-shoe. 

It  is  worthy  of  note  that  the  outline  of  this  cascade 
assumes  a  different  shape  to  the  eye,  at  every  point  from 
which  it  is  seen.t  Consequently,  it  is  presented  in  a  new 
and  striking  aspect  at  every  change  of  place ;  and  as 
many  fine  views  are  obtained  as  there  are  separate  stations 
from  which  to  observe.     From  the  Clifton  House,  the 

*In  1828  several  large  pieces  fell,  one  of  them  nearly  half  an  acre  in  extent. 
f  The  same  is  true,  though  in  a  less  degree,  of  the  American  Fall. 


I        t 


m 


I     '    ! 


ml 


'h    ' 


P'l 

tr' ' 

n ' 


ft 


104 


tourist's  companion 


Passage  behind  the  sheet  of  water. 


Pavilion  Hotel,  and  the  Barracks,  it  appears  under  forms 
having  but  slight  similitude  to  each  other,  —  varying 
from  which  to  observe.  From  the  Clifton  House,  the 
concave  to  square,  and  from  square  to  triangular,  —  but 
all  extremely  interesting  ; — ^the  view  from  the  former  is, 
however,  immeasurably  the  most  grand  and  superb. 

After  having  sufficiently  examined  and  admired  the 
scene  from  Table  Rock,  you  return  along  the  plank  path- 
way to  the  rooms  of  Mr.  Barnett,  where  there  is  a  Stair- 
case down  the  bank,  and  where  you  will  procure  proper 
apparel  and  a  guide  to  Termination  Rock,  which  is  behind 
the  great  sheet.  Provided  with  these  essential  requisites, 
you  descend  a  long  flight  of  spiral  stairs,  erected  some 
years  since  by  Mr.  Forsyth,  from  the  foot  of  which,  taking 
the  path  to  the  right,  you  soon  arrive  at  the  misty,  spray- 
washed  entrance  to  the  cavern,  which  it  is  your  purpose 
to  explore.  Here  you  pause,  to  enjoy  a  most  sublime  view 
of  the  cataract,  and  particularly  of  the  Horse-shoe  Fall, 
which  comes  thundering  down,  above  and  before  you^ 
stretching  far  away  to  the  left  in  its  huge  and  awful  pro- 
portions. Another,  and,  in  some  respects,  a  better  view 
of  the  same  grand  spectacle,  is  seen  from  the  river-margin, 
to  which  you  descend. 

From  this  point,  more  than  any  other,  you  appear  to 
realize  the  vast  height,  of  the  precipice,  and  the  prodigious 
weight  and  impulsion  of  the  torrent.  It  seems  a  god. 
hurled  flood,  and  you  an  insect-atom,  scarce  beyond  its 
rush.  Tremendous  in  its  force,  immense  in  its  extent, 
appalling  in  its  subHmity,  the  vast  cascade  confounds  and 
terrifies  you,  while  it  hugs  your  gaze  with  a  charm  >  ou  can 
neither  comprehend  or  break.    A  dread  indefinable  divinity 


^:ZT 


' 


jW 


TABLE    HOCK    F1U)\1    liELOW. 


I'fi''n  1'>1 


ill 


■** 


W' 


)       <l 


1  •! 


'ft 


til 


'*'  "  "      itiHiwwm     i>'ii*i^ii  Hmt 


wmmmm 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


105 


Emotiona  while  behind  the  ^heet. 


is  in  and  upon  it,  which  compels  your  adoration  of  Him 
who  piled  the  rock,  and  heaved  the  flood  that  made 
Niagara,  and  made  it  speak  of  Him,  through  every  sense 
of  power  and  beauty,  to  mind  and  soul.  There  is  a  god- 
ness  in  the  scene,  that  is  felt  in  every  fibre,  but  cannot  be 
expressed,  —  that  infinitely  expands  the  soul,  which  is  yet 
too  small  to  grasp  its  dim  outline  even, — that  crowds  the 
mind  with  august  thoughts  and  emotions,  which  struggle 
for  utterance,  but  which  the  heart  only  can  tell  to  its 
Creator  in  the  silent  eloquence  of  worship. 

Of  all  views  of  Niagara,  this  is  the  most  impressive  ; 
and,  were  there  no  other,  it  would  seem  inexplicable 
from  whence  these  unintermitted  and  immeasurable  floods 
could  proceed,  which  appear  literally  to  fall  from  the 
he'ivens.  From  this  scene,  tearing  yourself  away,  you 
regain  the  top  of  the  sloping  bank,  and,  impatient  to 
attain  the  penetralia  of  Nature*3  hidden  mysteries,  essay 
the  passage  behind  the  sheet.  The  winds  howl  around 
you  ;  —  the  spray  dashes  in  your  face  with  blinding  and 
almost  suffocating  force.  You  can  scarcely  see,  scarcely 
breathe  ;  but  the  supporting  hand  of  the  guide,  and  his 
encouraging  voice,  sustain  and  re-assure  you.  With 
hasty  but  careful  steps  you  press  on,  and  are  in  a  moment 
more,  at  your  journey's  end,  and  can  see  and  breathe 
more  freely.  The  spray  still  showers  upon  you,  but  with 
diminished  force  and  density;  and  you  look  around,  above, 
below.  What  a  fearful  place  !  what  an  imposing  scene  ! 
Unutterable  awe  is  the  first,  and  for  some  seconds,  the 
only  emotion. 

You  stand  upon  a  narrow  ledge,  scarce  three  feet  wide, 
and  gaze  with  intense  interest  up  ninety  feet  at  the  meet- 


'lii 


I.  <. 


9'       i 


I    %n 


106 


TOURIST  S   COMPANION 


Termination  Rock  —  Cavern. 


ing  arches  of  rock  and  water ;  and  down  twenty  feet  at 
a  steep  precipice,  and  a  flashing  sheet,  which  are  lost  to 
view  in  the  rising  mists.  You  see  the  mighty  torrent 
roll  off  the  cliff  above  your  head,  and  plunge  with  a 
lightning  rapidity,  down  the  dark  profound.  You  can- 
not see  the  strife  between  fall  and  flood  — the  mad  melee 
of  many  waters ; — but  you  hear  the  sound  of  battling 
elements,  and  you  feel  that  the  struggle  is  terrific.  Such 
sights !  such  sounds  I — The  eye  aches;  the  ear  is  pained. 
But  there  is  a  dreadful  fascination  in  the  place : —  the  eye 
looks  eagerly,  though  it  aches ;  and  the  ear  is  pleased 
with  that  which  pains  it. 

An  inviting  extent  of  cavern,  dim,  misty,  and  indefina- 
ble, is  before  you.  You  long  to  explore  it,  and  advance 
a  step,  when  the  guide,  catching  your  arm,  assures  you 
that  you  stand  upon  the  extremity  of  Termination  Rock, 
and  that,  though  it  is  possible  to  make  your  way  a  few 
feet  farther,  the  attempt  would  be  at  the  hazard  of  your 
life.  Reluctantly  you  abandon  the  hope  of  diving  still 
deeper  into  the  shadowy  recesses  of  that  terribly  attrac- 
tive  cavern  ;  and  survey  with  a  closer  scrutiny  the  vaulted 
hall,  in  which  you  stand.  Ragged,  impending,  and 
seamed  with  fissures,  the  arching  rock  above  you  appears 
to  be  on  the  point  of  crumbling  beneath  the  weight  of 
the  superincumbent  flood.  Massy  fragments,  held  by  no 
visible  support,  seem  almost  in  the  act  of  falling ;  and 
you  can  hardly  persuade  yourself,  that  danger  is  not 
imminent,  and  destruction  at  hand,  fiut  the  reflection, 
that  thousands  and  thousands  of  persons  have  passed 
under  them,  back  and  forth,  with  impunity,  inspires  you 
with  courage;  and  you  scan,   but  with  throbbing   pulse 


h 


•smm 


TO  NIAGARA  PALLS. 


107 


Egress  from  behind  the  sheet. 


and  a  heaving  bosom,  the  wonders  and  glories  by  which 
you  are  surrounded. 

The  living  deluge  that  bursts  from  the  trembling  crag 
far  above  you,  and,  flashing  by,  is  scarcely  seen,  ere  it 
thunders  up  from  the  gulf  below,  seems  to  make  an 
eternal  present  of  both  past  and  future,  by  its  lightning 
rush  and  ceaseless  flow.  Omnipotence  mingling  infini- 
ties, dashing  down  the  flood,  lifting  the  spray,  and  swell- 
ing  the  sound,  pervades  the  place  with  His  i>resence,  and 
deepens  the  awe  it  inspires.  But  any  attempt  to  des- 
cribe the  sights,  sounds,  or  sensations,  produced  by  this 
transcendant  scene,  must  be  vain,  and  worse  than  vain  ; 
and  I  leave  you  "  amid  these  vast  and  eternal  workings 
of  gigantic  nature,"  to  commune  with  Him,  "  whom 
Nature's  self  obeys,"  aud  remain  or  emerge  at  will. 

Drenched  or  dripping,  you  at  last  come  forth,  bearing 
upon  your  mind  and  memory,  an  impression  that  no  time 
or  change  can  ever  erase ;  and  with  solemn  step  and 
thoughtful  mien,  ascend  the  stairs,  and  resume  your 
ordinary  dress  Register  your  name,  receive  a  certificate 
that  you  have  been  to  Termination  Rock,  pay  the  custom, 
ary  charge,  and  then  if  you  choose,  rest  yourself,  and 
partake  of  some  refreshments.  Mr.  Barnett,  who  keeps 
this  establishment,  is  attentive  to  the  wishes  of  his  guests, 
and  has  a  fine  cabinet  of  minerals  and  other  curiosities, 
which  is  worthy  of  notice. 

Returning  to  the  ferry,  stop  at  the  Museum  as  you 
pass,  and  examine  Mr.  Barnett*s  admirable  collection  of 
natural  and  artificial  curiosities.  A  splendid  view  of  the 
Falls  may  be  enjoyed  from  the  piazza  of  the  Museum ; 
and  Mr.  Barnett,  who  is   both  intelligent  and   polite,  will 


m 


'] 


i 


1i* 


)t:^ 


ft*: 


}•< 


lit 


l^v::M     Ik 


m  • 


103 


TOURIST'S    COMPANION 


Earnett's  Museum  —  Camera  Obacura. 


do  all  in  his  power  to  render  your  visit  agreeable.  At  the 
Camera  Obscura,  make  a  short  pause,  to  see  the  miniature 
and  moving  Niagara,  animated  and  life-like,  which  that 
instrument  presents] 

From  thence,  return  to  the  ferry,  —  which,  on  the 
Canada  side,  is  kept  by  Mr.  Shulterburgh,  a  civil  and 
obliging  man,  careful  and  attentive  to  his  business,  and 
experienced  in  all  that  relates  to  his  vocation,  —  and, 
while  crossing  the  river,  enjoy  again  the  glorious  view  of 
basin,  cliff,  and  cataract,  in  that  solemn  temple,  which 
seems,  filled  with  the  Eternal  presence,  its  liquid  floor 
quaking  beneath  His  Omnipotent  tread.  From  this 
sublime  sanctuary,  having  offered  up  the  incense  of  an 
awe-awakened  praise  to  Him  whose  habitation  if  ou 
earth,  is  here,  —  return  to  your  hotel,  recruit  your  physi- 
cal  energies  with  rest  and  food,  and  ponder  upon  the 
mighty  and  magnificent  scenes  you  have  beheld. 

In  the  evening,  make  another  visit  to  Iris  Island,  which 
you  will  find  even  more  interesting  and  agreeable  in  the 
sweet  moonlight,  than  in  the  broad  glare  of  day,  —  and 
catch,  if  you  can,  a  glimpse  of  the  lunar  bow.  There  is 
a  witching  loveliness  about  this  island  in  the  soft  obscur- 
ity  of  evening,  that  cannot  fail  to  please ;  and  a  solemn 
grandeur  in  the  cataract  at  night,  that  commands  rever- 
ence. Then,  too,  imagination  holds  her  undisputed 
sway;  —  but  the  half-concealment  that  shrouds  every 
object,  confines  her  to  the  task  of  filling  up  the  shadowy 
outline  of  the  vast  indistinct,  that  is  everywhere  around. 
It  ^eems  a  spirit-land,  and  gigantic  forms  of  inessential 
,'■:  ci)  and  beauty  float  before  the  vision,  upon  the  atmos- 
i ) ',  re  of  fancy.    Hushed  is  the  voice  of  mirth,  silent  the 


1^ 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


109 


Return  to  the  American  side. 


tongue  of  conviviality.  The  Actual  blends  with  the  Ideal; 
contemplation  rules  the  hour,  and  the  place ;  and  a 
subdued,  but  not  dismal,  melancholy  pervades  every  brow 
and  bosom.  No  sound  is  heard,  but  the  choral  chaunt 
of  the  elements ;  no  sentiment  breathed,  but  such  as  be- 
fits  the  spot,  and  the  season.  The  Genius  of  Niagara, 
hovering  near,  spreads  his  misty  pinions  over  all  things ; 
and  the  whole  scene  is  hallowed  by  the  invisible  presence 
of  Deity. 

End  the  day  by  reflecting  upon  what  you  have  seen 
and  felt ;  and  looking  over  your  guide-book,  to  determine 
where  you  will  go  next.  And  so,  good  night;  — 1  know 
your  slumber  will  be  sweet. 


i 


:l!' 

i:l, 


lit 


iMJ' 


J;    !1 

If' 
S 


I 


I    ■    '■■ 


'    -liv 


i      * 


J, ;; 


!|.' 


110 


tourist's  companion. 


CHAPTER    XI  i. 

REMARKS  AND  ADVICE — GOOD  COUNSEL  —  PUBLIC  GARDEN — ROAD 
DOWN  THE  BANK  —  INDIAN  LADDER — POINT  VIEW — MINERAL 
SPRING  —  VIEW  OF  THE  CATARACT — WHIRLPOOL  RAPIDS — WHIRL- 
POOL LODGE  —  WHIRLPOOL  —  BODIES  —  DESCENT — VARIED  ASPECT 
—  RAFT  IN  THE  WHIRLPOOL—  DEVIL'S  HOLE  —  HEWLETT'S  CELLAR 
— LEWISTON  HEIGHTS. 

"  It  seemed  some  mountain,  rentand  riven, 
A  channel  for  the  stream  had  given  ; 
So  high  the  cHffs  of  limestone  gray, 
Hung  beetling  o'er  the  torrent's  waj', 
Yielding,  along  their  rugged  base, 
A  flinty  footpath's  niggard  space, 
Wheiehe  who  winds  'twist  rock  and  wave. 
May  hear  the  headlong  torrent  rave , 
And  chafe,  in  madness  and  in  pride, 
'Gainst  rocks  that  wall  its  prisoned  tide." 

O  U  HAVE  now  seen  the  Falls  from  the 
principal  point  of  observation,  and  the  beau- 
tiful scenery  immediately  around  them.  If 
you  remain  any  time,  and  you  should  for 
several  days  at  least ;  you  will  view  them 
again  and  again,  and  find  them  grow  in  your  estimation 
at  every  succeeding  visit.  People  who  come  to  the  Falls, 
run  hurriedly  around  them  for  a  few  hours,  and  then 
away,  can  form  little  idea  of  their  real  magnitude  and 
subUmity.  Those  who  remain  longest,  invariably  admire 
them  most.  It  requires  time  to  reahze  their  wonderful 
beauty  and  grandeur.  There  is  so  much  to  observe,  that 
the  mind  comes  confused,  and  cannot,  but  upon  repeated 
examination  form  a  correct  judgment. 

Besides  the  cataract   itself,  there  are  various  objects  in 
the  vicinity,  which  you  will  desire  to  see,  and  which  few 


TO    NIAGARA   FALLS. 


Ill 


Lewiaton  —  Public  Garden. 


are  content  to  forego  the  pleasure  of  beholding.  To 
these  I  shall  now  direct  your  attention.  I  should  advise 
you  to  pass  down  on  the  American  side  to  Lewiston,  and 
return  on  the  Canada  shore.  You  can,  in  this  way,  visit 
all  the  points  of  interest,  with  most  economy  of  time  and 
trouble.  Conveyances  are  to  be  had  on  either  side,  upon 
reasonable  terms  j  and  a  line  of  Omnibuses  run  hourly 
from  the  village  of  Niagara  Falls,  to  the  Mineral  Spring, 
Whirlpool,  and  Devil's  Hole.  But  the  walk  along  the 
bank  of  the  river  is  most  delightful,  and  views  of  beauti- 
ful  romantic  scenery  present  themselves  at  almost  every 
step.  For  females  and  invalids,  it  would  perhaps  be  too 
fatiguing ;  but  many  ladies  walk  to  the  Whirlpool,  and 
all  who  can,  are  advised  to  do  so.  The  scenery  along 
the  river  bank  is  every  way  grand  and  picturesque,  and 
no  part  of  it  should  be  lost,  if  it  can  be  avoided. 

A  few  rods  below  the  American  Fall  is  the  Public  Gar- 
den of  which  we  have  before  spoken  ;  where  a  beautiful 
summer-house,  almost  on  the  brow  of  the  precipice,  and 
commanding  a  noble  view  of  the  cataract,  occupies  the 
precise  spot  where  Abbott,  the  Hermit  of  the  Falls,  for  a 
long  time  lived,  in  a  hut  by  himself. 

About  eighty  rods  further,  and  you  come  to  an  excava- 
tion, where  a  good  deal  of  earth  and  stone  has  been  re- 
moved. It  is  the  commencement  of  a  carriage-road 
down  the  bank,  which  was  began  tome  fourteen  or  fifteen 
years  ago,  but  soon  after  discontinued.  In  1836,  it  was 
again  commenced  by  Mr.  Rathbun,  and  would  probably 
have  been  soon  completed,  but  for  the  unfortunate  issue 
of  his  affairs. 


ii  < 


li 


1^ 


■  ! 


»  , 


i     I 


''':U 


112 


toueist's  companion 


Point  View  —  Mineral  Spring. 


Just  below,  there  is  a  notch  in  the  bank,  near  a  fine 
spring,  at  which  the  Indian  Ladder,  as  it  was  called, 
stood.  This  ladder,  which  was  merely  a  large  cedar  tree, 
resting  against  the  rock,  was  the  most  ancient  means  of 
descending  to  the  base  of  the  cliff,  and  thence  attaining 
the  foot  of  the  cascade.  The  limbs,  and  a  few  notches 
cut  into  the  trunk  itself,  were  all  there  was  to  cling  to  ; 
and  the  last  person  known  to  have  descended  it,  —  a  dar. 
ing  hunter,  by  the  name  of  Brooks,  who  ventured  down 
in  pursuit  of  game,  —  fell  before  he  reached  the  bottom, 
and  suffered  severe  contusion. 

Point  View,  so  called  from  the  splendid  view  of  the 
chasm,  river,  and  cataract,  which  it  affords,  is  about  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile  below  the  ferry.  Standing  here,  you 
can  look  directly  down  two  hundred  feet  at  the  broad 
stream,  flowing  smoothly  by,  and  at  the  towering  banks 
by  which  it  is  environed.  The  view  of  the  cataract, 
though  distant  is  most  magnificent,  and  one  that  you  will 
not  be  likely  soon  to  forget. 


MINERAL  SPRINGS. 

The  Mineral  Spring  is  about  one  and  a  fourth  miles 
beyond  Point  View,  a  few  rods  from  the  river,  and  is  shel- 
tered  and  shaded  by  a  pretty  and  graceful  open  building 


TO   NIAOAEA    FALLS. 


113 


Mineral  Spring  —  the  Whirlpool. 


of  Grecian  Architecture,  erected  by  Mr.  Rathbun.  The 
water  wells  up  between  the  rocks,  and  is  collected  in  a 
stone  basin;  —  it  is  strongly  impregnated  wich  sulphur, 
contains  also  lime  and  magnesia,  and  is  said  to  be  quite 
similar  to  that  of  Harrowgate,  England.  From  the  road, 
a  short  distance  beyond  this  spring,  the  first  view  of  the 
Falls  is  obtained  by  persons  coming  from  the  direction  of 
Lockport  or  Lewiston.  It  is  extremely  beautiful,  and  is 
that  with  which  Capt.  Hall  was  so  much  pleased. 

Some  eighty  or  one  hundred  rods  below  the  Mineral 
Spring,  commence  the  Whirlpool  rapids  ;  and  from  this 
point,  to  that  singular  phenemenon,  every  foot  of  the  way 
possesses  a  strong  and  exciting  interest.  Walled  in  by 
those  giant  banks,  from  which  it  makes  one  dizzy  to 
look  down,  the  river,  as  if  angered  to  fury  by  the  restraint 
they  impose  upon  it,  rushes  along  wild,  impetuous,  and 
uncontrollable  ;  and  pours  its  raging  floods  into  the  mad 
sea  of  agitation,  the  Maelstroom  of  Niagara. 

The  Whirlpool  is  three  miles  from  the  Falls,  and  about 
one  hundred  rods  from  the  main  road,  where  a  house  of 
entertainment,  called  the  Whirlpool  Lodge,  has  been 
erected  by  Mr.  Wheeler,  who  is  also  proprietor  of  the 
grounds  in  rear,  through  which  the  visiter  must  pass.  A 
small  fee  is  paid  here,  for  the  privilege  of  entering  these 
embowered  walks,  and  for  the  use  of  the  steps  down  the 
bank. 

Having  reached  the  American  Cliff*,  upon  whose  lofty 

brow  a  beautiful  summer-house  stands-another  proof  of  the 

enterprise  and  taste  of  Mr.  Rathbun  —  pause  and  behold: 

—  the  Whirlpool  is  before  and  far  below  you,  spread  out 

like  a  little  sea,  tossed  and  agitated,  and  shut  in  on  every 
G 


Tl 

|V 

^i 

^  ■ 

i  i 

.■' 

III 

•1-     'i  ■ 

1'.'^ 

V."      ■ 

r. 

V  ; 
■■>;  1  ■ 

1 

i 

,.4  J 

fl 

t.\ 

!                  , 

V 

' ...  i  * 

It   ' 


•i.'i 


lli- 


'^■' 


1i '. 


;» 


!  li 


II 


f  i 


114 


TOURIST'S  COMPANION 


The  Whirlpool  --  Its  current. 


side  by  towering  and  tree-crowned  banks.  This  vast 
basin  is  in  form  nearly  circular,  and  has,  beyond  doubt, 
been  hollowed  out  by  the  action  of  the  water ;  probably, 
when  the  cataract  in  its  upward  progress  from  Lewiston 
heights,  had  reached  this  point,  and  for  a  time  halted  in 
its  amazing  march. 

The  river  here,  makes  an  acute  angle  in  its  course, 
turning  abruptly  off  to  the  right,  behind  the  cliff  upon 
which  you  stand.  The  furious  torrent  comes  thundering 
and  foaming  in  this  great  basin  ;  and  its  currents,  kept 
away  from  the  place  of  egress  by  the  mighty  rocks  upon 
which  the  cliff  rest^s,  are  forced,  by  their  prodigious 
impulsion,  quite  across  the  mouth  of  the  outlet  ;  and, 
meeting  the  opposite  bank,  are  again  diverted  from  their 
course;  and  curving  inward,  are  carried  round  and  round 
the  basin,  till  they  are  drawn  down  in  the  centre,  driven 
eubterraneously  far  forward,  and  finally  ejected  at  the 
opening  below,  where  they  boil  up,  and  bound  away  in 
frightful  and  tremendous  plunges. 

Nothing  that  has  life,  floats  upon  this  chaos  of  convul- 
sions ;  but  huge  timbers,  and  sometimes  dead  bodies,  are 
drawn  into  its  vortex,  and  are  carried  round  in  ceaseless 
gyrations  for  days,  and  even  weeks,  before  they  escape 
from  its  convolving  currents,  and  whirling  eddies.  Two 
British  soldiers,  in  attempting  to  desert,  by  swimming  the 
river,  were  in  the  year  of  1841  drowned,  and  hurried  into 
the  Whirlpool,  where  their  swollen  disfigured  bodies 
remained  for  a  number  of  days,  objects  of  loathing  and 
disgust, — ^now  floating  motionless  along,  and  anon,  with 
a  horrible  seeming  animation,  diving,  emerging,  leaping, 


■^ 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


115 


Descent  to  the  Whirlpool. 


and  as  it  were,  playing  with  the  foaming  surges,  and  con- 
flicting waves. 

From  the  height  whereon  you  stand,  but  h'ttle  of  the 
terrible  agitation,  and  wild  intumescence  of  the  Whirl- 
pool, can  be  perceived  by  the  unassisted  eye.  The  little 
sticks —  as  they  appear  to  be — which  you  observe  whirl, 
ing  and  tossing  about,  are  in  reality,  large  pieces  of 
timber ;  as  by  the  aid  of  an  object  glass,  you  will  become 
convinced;  and  be  also  enabled  to  realize  something  more 
of  the  grandeur  and  commotion  of  this  strange  and  fear- 
ful sea  of  imprisoned,  but  rebellious  and  etill  raging 
floods.  . 

By  a  long  and  tortuous  declivity  of  rude  steps,  you 
descend  to  the  base  of  the  cliff,  and  from  the  level  rocks 
below,  observe  the  wild  rush  and  whirl  of  the  mad  wa- 
ters. The  rapids  above,  and  at  the  entrance  of  the 
Whirlpool,  are  terribly  grand  and  striking.  The  huge 
surges  leap  and  plunge  with  prodigious  force  and  velocity; 
and  their  impulsion  is  so  great,  that  the  whole  mass  is 
heaved  up  at  the  centre  of  this  mighty  malestroom,  to  an 
elevation  of  not  less  than  twelve  feet  above  its  outer 
surface. 

Passing  round  to  the  right,  you  come  to  the  outlet  of 
this  tumultuous  sea,  and  behold  a  scene  of  surpassing 
grandeur.  Two  black  and  frowning  cliflTs,  scarcely  thirty 
rods  apart,  rear  their  huge  and  giant  forms  to  a  height  of 
nearly  three  hundred  feet ;  and  there  stand,  terrible  and 
impending  —  the  mountain-sized,  rock-armed  guardians 
of  this  maelstroom-portal.  The  escaping  torrents,  crow- 
ding through  the  narrow  passage,  and  hurrying  down  the 
slope,  rush  forward  with  such  inconceivable  rapidity  and 


'     <. 


t  *  ■. 


' 


uH 


't 


V       i! 


hi! 


116 


tourist's  companion 


View  from  below—  force  of  the  current. 


force,  that  the  middle  of  the  gushing  volume  is  raised 
much  higher  than  the  side  next  you,  which  is  smooth  and 
glassy,  but  incredibly  swift;  and  the  bounding  surges 
leap  away  in  sublime  plunges  of  eight  to  ten  feet  high. 
These  rapids  are  seen  to  much  better  advantage  from  the 
opposite  side,  as  they  are  nearest  to  that  shore,  and  indeed 
dash  along  the  huge  rocks  by  which  it  is  lined,  in  their 
curvetting  and  uncontrollable  course. 

Nothing  that  comes  down  the  river,  can  escape  being 
drawn  into  the  Whirlpool,  as  the  current  is  carried  quite 
across  the  outlet,  and  turned  up  by  the  opposing  bank. 
Wave  urges  wave,  current  accelerates  current,  billow 
chases  billow,  and  there  they  revolve  round  and  round, 
till,  swallowed  in  one  place,  ejected  in  another,  conten. 
ding  here,  and  separating  there,  parting,  reposing,  meet, 
ing,  mingling,  eddying,  plunging,  they  are  at  last  engorged 
in  the  deep  bowels  of  the  abyss,  forced  far  under  the 
superincumbent  mass,  and  finally  vomited  iorth  at  the 
narrow  outlet,  whence  they  hasten  away  in  the  mad  rap- 
ture of  new-found  freedom,  to  seek  repose  in  the  quiet 
bosom  of  the  distant  lake. 

It  is  utterly  impossible  to  describe  the  Whirlpool,  so  as 
to  give  any  adequate  idea  of  its  grandeur  and  sublimity. 
Beauty  it  has  none,  —  it  is  fearful  —  terrible  !  There  is 
not  a  winning  featme  about  it.  It  is  solemn,  awful, 
impressive ;  and,  as  a  great  natural  curiosity,  second  only 
to  the  mighty  cataract  of  Niagara. 

A  visit  to  the  Whirlpool  should  never  be  omitted.  It 
is  in  all  respects,  totally  different  from  every  thing  about 
the  Falls.  A  vast  unity  of  factious  and  warring  energies, 
shut  in  and  imprisoned  by  massy  and  cloud  .reaching  bar. 


L 


TH 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


117 


Rise  of  waters  below  the  Falls. 


'fS,  having  no  relation  or  likeness  to  aught  else  in  the 
terial  world ;  it  is  alone  in  its  solemn  strangeness,  and 
3hes  no    cord  of  human  sympathy.     The  only  emo- 

H  IS  it  excites,  are  unmitigated  astonishment,  and  inex- 

r  :able  awe;  —  such,  at  least,  was  its  eifect  upon  the 

V.  ter. 
The  same  cause  that  makes  the  waters  in  the  basin 
ow  the  Falls,  rise  sometimes  so  quickly,  and  to  such  a 
2fht, — contraction  of  the  channel  —  produces  a  similar 
!Ct  in  this.  A  heavy  wind  down  the  lake,  raising  the 
}r  one  or  two  feet,  causes  it  to  rise  there,  from  fifteen 
twenty  feet,  and  in  the  Whirlpool  to  nearly  the  same 
ght.  At  such  a  time,  when  it  has  received  the  tribute 
destruction  ;  and  planks,  timbers,  trees,  and  it  may  be 
ats,  and  dead  bodies,  are  caught  and  enveloped  in  its 
mendous  toils,  it  is  seen  in  its  most  sublime  and  awful 
>ect,  and  seems,  in  its  wild  delight,  a  living  but  impris- 
»d  desolation,  sporting  with,  while  it  rends  its  prey,  and 
.  wearing  a  savage  solemnity  of  countenance,  in  the 
;hest  degree  hideous  and  appalling.  At  a  lower  stage 
water,  its  currents,  cavities,  eddies,  and  gyrations,  are 
>re  distinctly  marked,  and  the  view  though  less  striking, 
perhaps  more  impressive.  Seen  at  any  time,  and  seen 
ght,  it  cannot  fail  to  excite  astonishment,  and  fill  the 
il  with  awe. 

Al  large  raft  of  timber  escaped  a  few  years  since,  from 
fastenings  above  the  Falls,  and  was  precipitated  over 
1  cataract.  The  disjoined  logs  were  speedily  hurried 
the  Whirlpool,  in  which  they  remained  for  a  number 
week?.  It  then  presented  a  scene,  as  those  who  beheld 
relate,  of  intense   and   startling  interest.      Scattered 


'?  "'  \ 


rv>  i-JTSirrr" 


i  '■ 


\    ■■   Hi 


liiir 


118 


TOURIST'S    COMPANION 


Historical  Anecdote. 


about  in  every  direction,  they  were  to  be  seen  in  all  atti- 
tudes,  and  from  listless  inanity,  to  a  wonderful  life-like- 
ness.  Some  were  floating  on  the  glassy  surface,  others 
riding  the  gentle  swells,  some  careering  over  the  rolling 
billows,  and  again  others  leaping,  wrestling,  crashing, 
plunging,  flying,  following,  retreating,  pursuing,  shooting 
up  high  in  the  air,  diving  far  down  in  the  deep,  hiding 
here,  starting  up  there,  as  if  a  mad  forest  of  trees,  riding 
these  infernal  surges,  held  here  a  wild  inebriate  revel ;  — 
or  rather,  as  if  the  mob  of  waters,  seizing  these  immense 
weapons,  waged  intestine  war,  and  fought  one  another, 
—  flood  threshing  flood,  and  surge  goading  surge  with 
these  Titanic  war-clubs,  now  mingling  in  the  horrid 
melee  of  strife,  now  thrown  far  apart,  and  again  rushing 
together,  implacable,  vindictive,  and  unrelenting.  It 
must  have  been  a  strange  and  fearful  scene  ! 

Enormous  blocks  of  limestone  lie  scattered  and  coa- 
cervated  at  the  foot  of  those  two  tremendous  clifls, 
showing  that  a  wilder  warfare  than  that  of  contending 
currents,  has  been  here  at  some  time  waged  —  a  war  of 
elements,  a  contest  between  rock  and  flood, — the  mighty 
cataract  and  the  eternal  hills  being  parties  in  the  strife. 
The  strait  is  much  narrower  at  this  point,  than  at  any 
other  of  its  whole  course ;  and  the  place  seems,  from  this 
circumstance,  the  best  adapted  for  the  construction  of  a 
suspension  bridge.  Who  will  give  himself  to  wealth  and 
fame  by  the  erection  of  so  desirable  a  work  ? 

Half  a  mile  below  the  Whirlpool,  there  is  a  deep,  dark 
cove,  or  chasm,  in  the  rocky  bank,  called  the  Devil's 
Hole,  which,  from  its  own  gloomy  grandeur,  and  the  his. 
torical  associations  connected  with  it,  is  an  object  of  no 


1"  "t 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


119 


Bloody  Run  —  View  from  Devil's  Hole. 

inconsiderable  interest,  and  of  much  resort.  One  of  the 
most  wild,  rugged,  high,  and  massy  cliffs  in  the  world, 
rises  above  ir,  bleak,  bare  and  projecting,  from  which  a 
noble  viow^  of  the  river  and  gulf  is  presented.    A  stream, 


devil's  hole  from  below. 

called  Bloody  Run,  usually  small,  and  often  dry,  in  the 
summer,  but  swoln  to  a  torrent  size  in  the  fall  and  spring, 
pours  its  dark  waters  down  this  fearful  chasm,  and  over 
the  vast  rocks  that  form  its  bed,  to  the  river  below.  The 
road  passes  close  by  this  cove,  or  hole,  and  an  old  saw- 
mill stands  upon  the  brink  of  the  precipice. 


'  !i 


;iii 


Ik 


(f 


I 


:■• 


It  '? 


ill   II 


:! 


!:i 


120 


TOURIST  8    COMPANION 


Passage  down  the  rock. 


By  a  long,  tedious,  difficult,  but  not  dangerous  route, 
starting  from  the  top  of  the  bank,  about  twenty  rods  be- 
low the  Devil's  Hole,*  winding  your  way  down  and 
around  the  precipice,  you  descend  into  this  frightful  gulf, 
clamber  down  and  over  huge  moss-covered  rocks,  fallen 
trees,  and  accumulated  rubbish,  that  almost  bar  the  pas. 
sage,  and  toil  on  to  the  river  side.  Unless  you  do  this, 
you  can  form  but  a  very  faint  and  imperfect  conception 
of  the  wild  and  savage  grandeur  of  the  place,  into  whose 
dark  rock-shut,  forest-hidden  recesses  not  a  ray  of  sun. 
light  has  ever  forced  its  way.  An  air  of  sullen  sublimi. 
ty  pervades  its  gloom  ;  and  when  in  its  shadowy  depths, 
you  seem  cut  off  from  the  world,  and  confined  in  the  pri. 
son.house  of  terror.  It  is  akin  to  the  cataract  and  the 
whirlpool,  in  the  awe  it  inspires ;  but  has  not  a  single  fea- 
ture in  common  with  the  one  or  the  other.  It  is  a  wild, 
dark,  savage,  gloomy  cavern;  and  its  exploration  should 
not  be  omitted  To  appearance,  it  is  a  fit  place  for  a 
demon-dwelling;  and  hence,  probably,  derives  its  name. 
It  is  memorable  as  the  scene  of  a  tragic  event,  elsewhere 
to  be  narrated,  which  occurred  during  the  old  French 
war,  and  was  of  a  strange  and  bloody  character. 

From  a  hill,  not  far  hence,  an  extensive  and  splendid 
prospect  opens  to  the  view.  You  can  see  Queenston 
Heights,  Brock's  Monument,  the  plains  and  villages  be. 
low,  the  whole  remaining  course  of  the  river,  the  Ameri- 
can and  English  forts,  the  spreading  lake,  and  the  far  off 
hills  and  furests  fading  away  in  the  distance  beyond.  — 
There  is  hardly  in  the  world,  a  more  beautiful  and  pic- 

*  The  remains  of  an  okt  flight  of  steps  are  still  at  the   Devil's   Hole,  but  so 
much  broken  and  decayed  as  to  be  unserviceable. 


]■  ; 


TO   NIAGARA    FALLS. 


121 


Hewlett's  Cellar —  Arrival  at  Lewiston. 


turesque  landscape,  than  is  here  presented  to  your  obser- 
vation ;  nor  one  which  exhibits  a  greater  variety  of  inter- 
esting and  pleasing  objects. 

About  two  and  a  half,  or  perhaps,  three  miles  from  the 
Devil's  Hole,  there  is  a  singular  cavity  in  the  rock,  some 
ten  or  fifteen  feet  below  the  top  of  the  bank,  which  is 
worth  examination,  and  is  known  by  the  name  of  Hew- 
lett's Cellar.  Ii  is  of  a  triangular  shape,  as  regards  both 
its  level  and  attitude  —  pointed  at  the  top  and  back.  The 
walls  and  floor  are  of  solid  limestone,  and  it  appears  to 
have  been  formed  by  the  breaking  out  of  two  immense 
pieces  of  rock  :  —  how  this  could  have  been  done,  seems 
from  the  shape  and  situation  of  the  cave,  almost  inex- 
plicable. 

Less  than  a  mile  from  this  cave,  terminates  abruptly 
the  mountain-plain,  through  which  Niagara  has  cut  its 
deep  and  devious  channel,  for  more  than  two  leagues ; 
and  the  gorge  from  which  the  river  here  emerges,  presents 
a  grand  and  striking  aspect.  Rising  on  either  side,  to  a 
height  of  nearly  four  hundred  feet,  the  steep  banks  stand 
like  huge  and  solemn  sentinels,  guarding  the  narrow 
gateway  —  their  tree-crowned  summits  nodding  defiance 
to  all  below.  The  view  from  the  heights  is  very  compre- 
hensive in  its  extent,  embracing  plains,  villages,  river, 
forte,  and  lake;  and  a  broad  prospect  still  beyond,  bounded 
only  by,  and  blending  with  the  distant  horizon  Des- 
cending the  heights,  you  are  soon  at  Lewiston,  which  lies 
in  the  valley  just  below. 

If  you  have  taken  our  advice,  and  walked  from  the 
Falls,  along  the  bank  of  the  river  to  this  place,  you  will 
probably  spend   the  night   here,  and  pass  up,  on   the 


h 


i  li 


|l: 


I' 


H 


M 


:|         .1 


H, 


'      »    > 


H^     Hilll 


122 


tourist's  companion 


Arrival  at  Lewiston. 


opposite  side,  in  the  morning.  If,  on  the  contrary,  you 
come  by  the  carriage  conveyance,  you  will  have  time  to 
dine,  and  return  to  the  Falls  on  the  other  shore  ;  or  to 
visit  Fort  Niagara,  and  get  back  before  dark.  In  any 
event,  you  will  patronize  *  mine  host*  of  the  Frontier 
House  —  a  portly  rosy-looking,  good-humored  scion  of 
the  '  fast-anchored  isle,*  who  is  especially  recommended, 
and  who  will  take  every  pains  to  recommend  himself,  to 
your  favour.  I  leave  you  to  your  good  cheer,  and  a 
sweet  repose.    Bon  soir . 


:i  i 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


123 


CHAPTER    XMI. 

QUEENSTON  HEIGHTS  —  BROCK'S  MONUMKNT  —  BLOWN  UP  —  COVE 
OR  CHASM  —  WHIRLPOOL  —  DENCACKIE  POINT  —  VIEW  FROM  — 
MUDDY  RUN— CASCADE — BANK  OPPOSITE -^  BENDER 'S  CAVE  — 
IMPROVEMENTS — CHANNEL —  LUNDY'S  LANE  —  STREET'S  POINT 
—  BURNING  SPRING  —  BRIDGEWATER  —  CHIPPEWA  —  THE  BATTLE- 
GROUND —  CONCLUDING   REMARKS. 

••  The  bale-fires  flash  on  high,  from  rock  to  rock  — 
Death  ritles  upon  the  sulphury  Sivoc  — 
1  :J  Battle  stamps  hie  foot,  and  Nations  feel  the  shock." 

"  Thy  glories  are  sought  till  the  life- throb  iso'er  — 
Thy  laurels  pursued  though  they  blossom  in  gore. 
'Mill  the  ruins  of  columns,  and  temples  sublime, 
The  arch  of  the  hero  doth  grapple  with  time  : 
The  Muse  o'er  thy  form  throws  her  tissue  divine, 
And  History  her  annal  emblazons  with  thine." 


t'!^ 


SAVING    Lewiston,    and  crossing  the 

ihe  river  in  a  boat,  propelled  by  horse  power, 

you  land  in  her  Britannic  Majesty's  domin- 

ions,   at  the  village  of  Queenston,  and  as- 

cend  the    heights,  so  memorable    for   one 

of  the  most  desperately-contested  battles  of  the  late  war, 

in  which  the  American   forces,   finally  lost  a  thrice-won 

victory,  and  were  compelled  to  lay  down   their  arms,  and 

surrender  at  discretion  ;    and    the    English  sustained   an 

[irreparable  loss  in  the  death  of  General   Brock,  which  no 

victory  could  compensate.     He  was  killed    by  a  musket 

jball,  in  the  early  part  of  the  action,  while  cheering  on  the 

.brave  troops  under  his  command.     When  struck,  he  was 

standing  by  a  cherry-tree,  still  pointed  out,  in  an  orchard 

i  to  the  right,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain-plain. 


.  '^ 


i'ft 


m 


I  m 


-A 


I 

$ 

, 

1 
■ 

.     E 

i 

1 

!  1 

11 

'  'J 

: 

f 

124 


tourist's  companion 


View  from  Queenston  Heights. 


From  the  heights  of  Queenston,  a  similar  but  less 
obstructed,  and  therefore,  more  extensive  view  of  the 
country,  river,  and  lake,  is  presented,  to  that  of  the 
opposite  elevation.  Fom  the  top  of  the  monument, 
nearly  five  hundred  feet  above  the  river-level,  it  vi^as  still 
more  grand  and  comprehensive ;  but,  considered  z.^  an 
observatory,  that  towering  structure  is  among  the  things 
that  were,  having  been  nearly  demolished  by  an  explo- 
sion of  gunpowder. 


FERRY   AT   LEWISTON. 


This  monument,  standing  upon  the  most  lofty  point  of 
Queenston  Heights,  was  erected  by  the  Provincial  LegivS- 
laturc,  to  the  memory  of  General  Brock,  whose  remains 
were  moved  from  Fort  George,  and  deposited  in  its  vault, 
with  those  of  his  Aid,  Colonel  McDonald,  who  was 
mortally  vvoundeJ  in  the  same  action,  and  died  the  fol- 
lowing  day.  In  addition  to  its  value  as  a  work  of  art,  it 
had  other  and  stronger  claims  to  respect.    It  was  erected 


t  less 
f  the 
)i'  the 
ment, 
s  still 
^d  an 
hings 
?xpIo. 


r^' 


It  of 
ig'ia. 
ains 
lult, 
was 
fol. 
•t,  it 
3ted 


M 


1" 


ill 


I  2  l! 


h^ 


'(»< 


IK 


r-;ESENr  atpearance  of  brock's  monument. 


Pa«re  12ft 


^ 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


126 


Destruction  of  Brock's  Monument. 


re  125 


in  honour  of  a  good  and  gallant  man,  whose  name  and 
deeds  form  a  part  of  the  history  of  the  times  ;  and  whose 
uniformly  kind  treatment  of  American  prisoners  —  so 
very  different  from  that  of  too  many  of  his  contemporaries 
— will  ever  be  held  in  grateful  remembrance  by  the  Ame- 
rican people.  Wantonly  to  destroy  such  a  monument, 
raised  in  commemoration  of  such  a  man,  would  be  base 
indeed;  but  there  was  not  wanting  some  wretch,  in- 
famous  and  despicable  enough  to  be  guilty  of  the  outrage. 

On  the  night  of  the  seventeenth  of  April,  1840,  the 
monument  was  blown  up  by  some  villain,  or  villains, 
unknown,  and  completely  ruined.  The  stairs  were  thrown 
down,  the  shaft  rent  in  several  places  nearly  from  top 
to  bottom,  the  inscription.tablet  fractured  quite  across, 
the  key.stone  forced  out,  and  the  whole  structure,  in 
short,  irremediably  injured.  The  damage  was  at  first 
supposed  to  be  much  less  than  the  event  proves  it  to  have 
sustained.  In  February  of  the  following  year,  a  large 
portion  of  the  top  fell ;  and  now,  the  dome  is  entirely 
gone,  the  balustrade  almost  destroyed,  and  scarcely  a 
single  part  unbroken.  The  interior  is  a  literal  heap  of 
ruins,  and  the  ground  for  many  yards  aroui.d,  covered 
with  the  fallen  fragments. 

This  execrable  transaction,  has  been  attributed  to  the 
notorious  Benjamin  Lett, — who  was  sent  to  the  peniten- 
tiary,  for  an  attempt  to  blow  up  the  steamer  Great  Britain, 
but  with  what  justice,  we  are  unable  to  say.  Whoever 
did  it,  richly  deserves  a  short  shrift  and  a  long  halter  ; 
and  this  we  believe  to  be  the  sentiment  of  every  gener. 
ous  mind.    Any  wretch,  so  depraved,   as  to  war  against 


i 


i   V 


? 


I    ! 


!  i; 


.1     I 


jfil 


/  •■ " ; 


'> . 


126 


TOURIST^S    COMPANION 


The  Whirlpool —  Descent  to  the  bank». 


the  ashes  and  honours  of  the  dead,    is  unfit  to  associate 
with  the  living. 

From  the  heights  of  Queenston,  passing  along  up  the 
river  bank,  you  come,  when  a  short  distance  below,  and 
nearly  opposite  the  Devil's  Hole,  to  a  cove  or  gulf,  some- 
thing similar  to  that  gloomy  chasm,  but  of  much  less 
magnitude.  It  is  however,  dark  and  romantic,  and  quite 
secluded,  and  may  be  worth  exploring  to  the  river  ;  a 
feat  we  have  not  yet,  but  intend  soon,  to  accomplish. 


OUTLET  OP   WHIRLPOOL,   CANADA  SIDE. 

About  half  a  mile  further,  and  you  come  again  to  the 
Whirlpool,  of  which,  from  the  summit  of  the  Canada 
Cliff,  a  capital  view  is  afforded.  The  rapids  entering 
this  imprisoned  sea,  are  almost  directly  in  front;  and 
those  at  the  outlet,  immediately  below  you.  The  view, 
is  in  many  respects,  better  than  that  from  the  height  op- 
positc. 


irH 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


127 


Upper  view  of  the  Whirlpool. 


J  , 


Descending  a  long  and  tortuous,  but  neither  difficult  nor 
dangerous  succession  of  steps  and  slopes,  to  the  foot  of 
the  precipice,  you  find  yourself  on  the  ledge  of  rocks, 
with  the  Whirlpool  on  your  right,  and  the  mad  rapids 
plunging  impetuously  past  you,  through  the  narrow 
opening.  The  scene,  from  this  point,  is  inconceivably 
grand  and  impressive,  and  one  you  should  not  fail  to 
witness.  Turning  to  the  right,  and  carefully  picking  your 
way  along  the  margin  of  this  mighty  basin,  you  n.ay 
make  the  circuit  of  the  Whirlpool,  and  get  a  better  idea 
of  its  wild  and  terrible  sublimity,  than  can  otherwise  be 
obtained.  It  is  a  long,  and  somewhat  fatiguing  walk, 
but  the  toil  will  be  richly  rewarded.  Of  the  entering 
rapids,  — surpassing  in  grandeur,  in  proportion  to  the 
breadth  of  the  stream,  even  those  abo -e  the  cataract  — 
you  will  thus  get  a  near  and  most  splendid  prospcc^ 

Hiving  re-ascended  the  bank,  follow  it  lound  the 
Whirlpool,  crossing  large  ravines,  and  passing  deep  and 
thickly-wooded  dells,  till  you  reach  Bencackie  Point,  at 
the  entrance  to  this  maelstrooni-wonder.  Of  all  upper 
views  of  this  vast  sea  of  imprisoned  waters,  that  present, 
ed  to  your  look  from  this  spot,  is  the  the  most  imposing 
and  unique.  The  high-rolling  rapids,  rush  along  in  savage 
grandeur,  almost  beneath  your  feet,  but  far,  far  below 
you  ;  and  the  whole  measure  of  the  monster  abyss,  heav- 
ing, surging,  and  circling  in  its  wild  agitation,  confronts 
your  eager  yet  half  recoiling  gaze.  Opposite,  rises  the 
gigantic,  cloud-soaring  cliff,  from  which  you  first  saw  the 
Whirlpool,  with  the  sweet  summer-house  resting  like  a 
snow-wreath  on  its  emerald  summit ;  and  parted  from  it 
by  the  narrow  outlet,  through  which  the  escaping    floods 


,    !'     ;f 


ill  hi 


:':■ 


•l!  i 


V    •: 


I 


128 


tourist's  companion 


Description  of  the  currenti. 


are  bounding  away,  in  the  joy  of  release,  from  the  dark 
valley  of  their  confinement,  stands  the  huge  form  of  its 
twin-born  companion,  rearing  its  mountain  brow  to  an 
equal  elevation,  inviting,  as  it  were,  the  tempests*  shock, 
and  defying  the  storm  of  time  and  fate. 

You  can  watch  the  circling  currents,  the  plunging  sur- 
ges, the  gorging  and  disgorgijig  floods,  see  the  entering 
and  emerging  torrents,  and  all  the  varied  features  of  this 
strange,  wild  prison.place  of  raging  waves;  and  if' it 
does  not  impress  you  with  a  solemn  awe,  you  must  be 
less  susceptible  to  strong  emotions,  than  the  many  who 
behold  and  wonder  at  the  scene,  as  we  have  often  done. 
The  sullen  stillness,  that  seems  to  hover,  pall-like,  above 
this  broad,  deep  basin;  the  black  banks,  that  close  darkly 
round,  w^alling  it  in  with  massive,  impenetrable,  high, 
reaching  barriers ;  the  towering  mountain-formed,  dark- 
browed  warders  that  guard  its  narrow  portal ;  the  wild 
floods  rushing  in,  and  maddening  at  the  toils  by  which 
they  are  enveloped ;  the  prisoned  volumes,  winding  round 
and  round  the  sombre  slopes  by  which  they  are  enclosed, 
and  thus  weaving  coils  by  which  still-coming  currents  ore 
ensnared;  the  mad  contention  that  the  struggling,  jostling, 
angry  mosses  meeting  and  battling,  ever  make ;  the 
raging  torrents,  crowdmg  and  driving  through  the  lean 
and  slender  gateway,  that  leads  to  freedom,  —  these  and 
many  other  strange  and  august  appearances,  conspire  to 
fill  the  mind  with  astonishment,  and  the  soul  with  awe. 
I  do  not  envy  the  man,  who  can  look  upon  such  a  scene 
unmoved ;  nor  admire  the  apathy  of  his  stoic  gaze,  who 
sees  no  dread  in  this  sublime  display,  and  feels  no  rever- 
ence  for  the  Power  that  made  its  walls  and  waves. 


i 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


129 


Muddy  Run  —  Bank  opposite. 


A  short  distance  above  the  Whirlpool,  a  small  stream, 
called  Muddy  Run,  a  mere  rivulet  in  its  summer  size,  but 
increasing  to  a  torrent  force,  when  swoln  by  the  falling 
rains  and  melting  snows  of  autumn  and  spring,  leaps  down 
the  lofty  bank,  and  mingles  its  tiny  volume  with  the  here- 
mad  Niagara;  which,  like  a  wilderness  of  raging  floods, 
dashes  along  in  a  wild  career  of  rapids,  on  to  its  mael- 
stroom-prison.  The  cascade  formed  by  this  little  stream, 
is  beautiful  and  unique.  The  water  falls  in  a  brilliant, 
sparkling  shower  of  silver  spangles,  and,  flashing  oflTfrom 
the  rocks  below,  sends  up  its  mimic  clouds  of  spray,  and 
the  sheen  of  its  twinkling  specks  of  ioam  ;  and  then, 
eliding  down  the  black  bank,  like  a  beamy  serpentine 
strip  of  sunlight,  it  is  caught,  swallowed  up,  and  whirled 
away  in  the  mighty  rush  of  the  rolling,  roaring  river,  to 
which  a  thousand  such  diminutive  creeks  could  add  no 
perceptible  increase. 

l^he  bank  opposite  this  point,  is  precipitous  from  the 
water's  edge  to  the  top,  and  presents  no  spot  where  the 
foot  of  man  could  find  a  resting  place.  It  is  bare  and 
almost  perpendicular,  showing  its  various  strata,  and 
offering  to  the  geologist  a  rare  opportunity  for  scientific 
investigation,  if  not  a  rich  field  of  research.  Its  naked 
aspect  is  slightly  relieved  by  the  diversified  colouring  of 
its  component  parts ;  and  still  more  by  the  trickhng  rills 
that  slip  down  its  rocky  surface,  and  ooze  from  between 
its  leafy  layers  of  changing  consistency  and  alternate 
hue. 

About  one  and  a  half  miles  above   this,  you  come  to 

Bender's  Cave, — sometimes  called   the  Devil's  Den, — 

which  is  quite  n  curiosity  and  must  not  be  overlooked. 
H 


\f 


ji 

*  ■ 

I 


11 

T     1 

i 

! 

j 

ri'.  \ 

]'  ' 

,1 

! 

f'  t 


130 


TOURIST  S    COMPANION 


Devil's  Den  — Interior  of  the  Cave. 


It  is  about  twenfy  feet  below  the  top  of  the  bank,  and 
seems  to  be  a  natural  hollow  in  the  rock,  in  shape  some- 
thing like  a  large  oven,  and  measuring  about  forty  feet  in 
breadth  and  depth.  On  the  rocks,  at  the  back  of  the 
cave,  small  quantities  of  sparry  accretion  have  been 
formed ;  and  in  spots,  an  appearance  of  shining  silver 
specks  is  presenled,  which,  caused  by  minute  particles  of 
water,  may  be  brushed  away  in  its  glistening  beauty,  by 
a  touch.  The  floor  of  the  cave  is  not  of  *'  pure  white 
sand,"  but  is  covered  with  a  mixture  of  argillaceous  and 
calcarious  earth. 

Above  and  below  the  cave,  the  rock  is  perpendicular ; 
from  its  mouth,  a  noble  view  of  the  river  and  banks  is 
afforded  ;  and  from  the  top  of  the  bank,  at  the  entrance 
to  it,  a  beautiful,  though  distant  and  partial,  view  of  the 
Falls  may  bo  seen.  The  cavern  is  dry,  and  sequestered  ; 
and,  situated  as  it  is,  offers  strong  inducements  to  any 
anchorite  who  may  desire  such  an  abode.  Hermits  are 
invited  to  call  and  examine  its  accommodations;  audit 
is  hoped  some  one  will  make  it  his  permanent  residence, 
as  such  an  inhabitant  might  add  something  to  the  romance 
of  this  wonderful  region. 

Having  completed  your  examination  of  Bender's  Cave, 
follow  up  the  bank  of  the  river,  admiring  as  you  pass,  the 
exquisite  taste  of  the  Canadian  authorities,  who,  con- 
structing a  road  along  the  bank  to  the  Whirlpool,  are  cut- 
ting  off  all  the  timber  and  underbrush,  and  leaving  the 
bare  cliff' without  a  shrub  to  fringe  its  margin,  and  relieve 
or  soften  its  naked  grandeur.  Strange  ideas  some  peo- 
ple have  of  improvement :  —  they  would  spoil  a  star  to 


1^ 


TO   NIAGARA    PALLS. 


131 


Lundy's  Lane. 


make  a  spangle.    O,  that  Morris  might  come  and  sing  to 
the  in  — 

"  Woodman,  spare  that  tree, 
Touch  not  a  single  bough," 

and  thus  arrest  the  unhallowed  work  of  destruction. 

Arrived  at  the  Clifton  House,  congratulate  yourself  on 
having  seen  every  foot  of  that  astonishing  channel,  cut  to 
such  an  amazing  depth  and  through  such  a  surprising  dis- 
tance, by  the  ever  toiling  cataract  of  Niagara,  and  which 
is  in  itself,  one  of  the  greatest  natural  wonders  of  the 
material  world.  The  works  of  Man  are  the  playthings 
of  Time  ;  but  these  vast  walls  are  the  enduring  pages  of 
its  history,  and  every  stone  in  the  chasm  is  a  bead  in  the 
wampum  of  Ages ! 

Lundy*s  Lane  and  that  "  Meteor  Hill,"  where  the  cel- 
ebrated Battle  of  Niagara  —  miscalled  by  some.  Bridge, 
water  —  was  fought,  are  at  Drummondville,  —  so  named 
in  honour  of  General  Drummond,  commander  of  the 
British  forces,  —  and  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  north- 
west of  the  Falls.  Most  travellers  desire  to  visit  a  place 
so  memorable,  and  it  is  presumed  the  reader  is  not  an 
exception.  The  road  up  the  bank,  in  front  of  the  Clifton 
House,  leads  directly  to  the  battle-ground.  A  church,  a 
tavern,  and  several  other  buildings,  are  on  the  hill,  the 
possession  of  which  was  so  obstinately  contested ;  and 
one  or  two  are  yet  standing,  which  were  there  at  the  dale 
of  the  conflict.  A  walk  through  the  buryirg.ground,  on 
the  left  side  of  the  ascent,  will  show  where  rest  the 
remains  of  many  a  gallant  soldier,  who  lost  his  hfe  by 
the  sad  chance  of  war. 

Returning  from  Lundy's  Lane,  follow  the  upper  bank 
to  the  Pavillion  Hotel,  from  whence  you  have  a  fine  view 


, 


i 


|hi:||ji'| 


! 


1.    It 


132 


TOURIST  S    COMPANION 


Return  from  Lundy's  Lane —  Burning  Spring. 


of  the  Falls.  Observe  the  curious  shape  of  the  Horse- 
shoe curve,  as  seen  from  this  point;  and  again,  from  the 
Barracks ;  and  then  continue  your  walk  to  Street's  Point, 
from  which  the  most  admired  and  magnificent  view  of 
the  Canada  rapids  is  presented.  The  mighty  volume  of 
water  rolls  by  in  all  forms  of  commotion  ;  plunging  down 
immense  and  steep  ledges,  dashing  against  obstructing 
rocks,  and  springing  high  in  the  air ;  swelling  here  in 
huge  billov^s,  tumbling  there  in  broken  surges,  raging  and 
rushing  on  with  inconceivable  force  and  velocity  towards 
the  awful  precipice,  from  which  it  is  so  soon  to  be  hurled. 
No  art  of  language  can  do  justice  to  this  scene — it  must 
be  witnessed  i 

A  small  fragment  of  the  river,  bending  deeply  in  just 
above  this  point,  separates  a  round  island,  called  Cynthia 
Island,  from  the  main  land,  and  another  small  one  at  its 
upper  extremity.  Opposite  Cynthia  Island,  on  the  south 
shore  of  the  stream,  is  the  Burning  Spring.  The  water 
wells  up  in  a  barrel,  and  is  kept  in  constant  ebullition  by 
the  rising  gass ;  which,  on  the  application  of  a  lighted 
candle,  instantly  ignites,  and  burns  with  a  I'^ar  steady 
flame.  On  this  spot,  formerly  stood  the  village  and  milte 
of  Bridge  water,  which,  in  the  ravages  of  war  did  not 
escape  destruction,  and  have  left  nothing  but  a  name  and 
a  few  deserted  buildings,  to  show  where  once  they 
flourished. 

Chippewa  is  one  mile  above.  It  is  a  fine  growing  place, 
but  was  the  head-quarters  of  McNab,  in  the  Navy  Island 
war,  and  suffered  not  a  little  from  the  stagnation  of  busi. 
ness,  during  the  rebellion.  It  is  also  memorable  for  the 
battle  fought  near  it,  which  resulted  in  the  triumph  of  the 


nm 


^^ 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


133 


Chippewa. 


American  arms.  The  plain  on  which  this  celebrated 
contest  took  place,  lies  about  two  miles  above,  or  south 
of  the  village,  and  is  now  covered  with  cultivated  fields, 
and  verdant  meadows.  It  is  however  regarded  with  deep 
interest  by  the  people  of  both  countries,  and  resorted  to 
by  many  visiters  to  the  Falls. 

Extend  your  ramble  to  this  plain,  hallowed  in  the 
remembrance  of  two  nations,  return  thence  to  the  ferry, 
feast  your  eyes  again  upon  the  splendor  and  glories  of 
Niagara,  which  you  cannot  too  often  behold ;  and  then 
cross  the  river  and  rest  from  your  labours  of  curiosity. 


rv. 


i. 


^j. 


i! 

1    I 


I  '  ! 


m  < 


111 


('!<! 


['$  ^^iH 


I  ■■<  S    |( 


*-'t'  s  I 


U*   i 


134 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH, 


WITH 


ACCIDENTS  AND  ADVENTURES. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

EARLY  HISTORY  OP  THE  FALLS  —  FRENCH  ESTABLISHMENTS  —  EX- 
PEDITION OP  LA  SALLE— HENNEPIN'S  TOUR  OP  EXPLORATION  — 
OTHER  VISITERS  —  CHANGES  IN  THE  CATARACT — WANT  OF  DA- 
TA,   ETC. 

"Adventurous  spirits!  from  afar  they  came, 

To  pioneer  a  pathway  up  to  fame; 

And,  freighted  with  the  tidings  of  salvation , 

To  christianize  each  dark  benighted  nation, 

Thelove  of  God, and  stronger  love  of  gain, 

Urge  their  fleet  footsteps  o'er  the  pathless  plain  ; 

They  trace  the  river  to  its  mountain  birth. 

And  covet  all  the  wide  expanse  of  eaith  : 

For  valued  furs,  they  profter  in  exchange, 

Beads,  tinsel,  gewgaws,  and  a  faith  so  strange. 

The,  red-man  cannot  understand,  nor  they 

Explain  —  and  thus,  they  preach,  presa  on,  and  prey." 

0  T  H I N  G,  to  one  who  has  seen  the  Falls, 
can  be  indifferent,  which  relates  to  them, 
and  especially  their  early  history,  of  which 
it  is  strange,  so  little  is  known.  Not  the 
name  even,  of  the  lucky  European  whose 
eyes  were  first  gladdened  by  the  glories  of  Niagara,  has 
come  down  to  us ;  nor  can  conjecture  fix  upon  the  date 


•;( 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


135 


Kacly  History  of  the  Falls. 


;  of  the  discovery.     Immortality  would  have  been  the  re- 
I  compense  of  the  fortunate  finder,  had  his  memory  been 
i  preserved  ;  but  the  night  of  an  utter  oblivion  rests  upon 
j  both  the  man  and  the   event.     We  should  suppose   that 
■  the  honor  of  this  great  discovery  would  have  been  prompt. 
i  ly  claimed,  and  jealousy  guarded  ;  but  such  seems  not  to 
i  have  been  the  case  ;  and  so  far  from  having  rival  preten- 
isions  to  judge,  there  is  literally  none  to  accept  the  award. 
j  We  can  account  for  this,  only  by  supposing   that,   won- 
I  dera  of  naturehad  no  power  to  charm  the  eye  of  avarice  ; 
I  and  that-a  cataract,  so  vast  aud   magnificent  even  as  this, 
I  rated   less  in  the  estimation  of  gold-seeking,  fur-fathering 
I  settlers   of   New    France,   than  any  portion,    however 
'  minure,  of  the  glistering  ore,  and  pelt,  however   poor,  of 
j  the  castor  tribe. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  seventeenth  century,  the 
French  had  established  themselves  on  the  shores  of  Lake 
Ontario,  aud  it  cannot  be  supposed  they  would  long 
remain  in  ignorance  of  the  cataract,  while  they  were  in 
I  constant  intercourse  with  Indians,  dwelling  at,  and 
around  it;  and  by  whom  it  was  regared  witli  superstitious 
reverence.  Yet  it  seems  to  have  excited  no  attention,  or 
curiosity —  and  is  not  even  mentioned,  that  lean  learn, 
till  half  a  Cvintury  later.  Creuxio,  author  of  a  History  of 
Canada,  of  date  1660,  has  it  marked  on  the  map  ;  but 
in  the  work  itself,  the  name  is  not  to  be  seen ;  and, 
except  a  bare  allusion,  perhaps,  no  further  notice  of  the 
Falls  is  to  be  found  of  earlier  date,  than  1678,  when  Fath- 
er Hennepin  paid  a  visit  to  the  scene,  had  the  good  sense 
to  appreciate  its  grandeur,  aud  has  left  the  world  indebted 
to  him  for  the  first  account  of  Niagara— though  the  French 


1 


-It  < 


!  ; 


i  I, 

■7     I 


iH  i! 


iii'M^lii 


136 


TOURIST  8    COMPANION 


Father  Hennepin. 

had  already,  and  indeed  years  before,  established  trading 
posts  on  the  upper  lakes,  and  penetrated  even  to  the 
Mississippi  itself. 

Father  Louis  Hennepin,  a  missionary  of  the  Catholic 
order  of  St.  Francis,  came  to  Canada  in  the  year  1676, 
continued  at  Fort  Frontenac,  engaged  in  the  cure  cf 
souls  ;  and  then  being  zealous  in  the  service  of  God,  and 
emulous  in  the  search  of  new  countries,  he  packed  up 
his  priestly  garments,  procured  a  portable  chapel,  and 
joined  the  Sieur  de  La  Salle,  in  an  expedition  of  discov. 
ery,  trade,  and  conversion,  to  the  upper  lakes,  and  the 
Mississippi ;  which  noble  river  bad  been  reached,  and 
partly  explored,  six  years  previous  by  Father  Marquette, 
who  did  not  however  live  to  relate  the  particulars  of  his 
journey,  but  perished  not  long  after,  in  the  country  of  the 
Miamies,  where  he  was  detained. 

The  Sieur  de  La  Salle,  with  Father  Hennepin,  and 
others,  set  sail  from  Fort  Frontenac,  in  the  fall  of  1678, 
and  in  process  of  time,  made  the  Niagara  river,  at  the 
mouth  of  which  he  established  a  trading  post,  on  the  site 
of  Fort  Niagara.  When  making  the  portage,  the 
party,  —  and  most  of  them  doubtless  for  the  first  time,  — 
saw  the  Falls.  If  we  may  judge  by  the  example  of  La 
Tonti,  the  historiograper  of  La  Sailers  enterprises  and 
adventures,  who  merely  mentions,  and  that  accidentally, 
that  there  is  a  cataract  six  hundred  feet  high,  between 
the  lakes  Erie  and  Ontario,  this  sublime  spectacle  made 
but  a  slight  impression  upon  its  dull  beholders.  Father 
Hennepin,  had,  however,  a  more  just  appreciation  of  the 
august  scene  than  his  companions,  and  while  endeavour- 


U 


fV  <t% 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


137 


Sieur  de  La  Salle  — La  Hontan. 


ing  to  describe  it,  deeply  regrets  that  there  was  not  some 
one  present  better  fitted  for  the  task. 

At  some  point  above  the  Falls,  a  vessel  of  sixty  tons 
burthen  was  built  by  La  Salle,  in  which,  in  the  prosecu- 
tion of  their  journey,  they  navigated  the  lakes  Erie,  St. 
Clair,  Huron,  and  Michigan,  to  the  St.  Joseph's  River, 
where  he  built  a  fort.  Crossing  the  portage  to  the 
Illinois  river,  he  built  there  another  fort,  from  whence. 
Father  Hennepin,  with  three  Canadian  boatmen,  set  off 
in  a  canoe,  to  explore  the  Mississippi,  which  he  did  to 
the  gulf  of  Mexico;  and,  returning,  ascended  to  the 
Falls  of  S\  Anthony,  which  are  indebted  to  him  for  the 
pious  name  they  bear,  —  as  also,  the  river  St.  Francis. 

Hardship,  danger,  captivity,  and  many  lesser  evils, 
were  bravely  borne  by  the  worthy  Franciscan,  who 
finally  made  his  way  back  to  Niagara,  to  which  a  second 
chapter  of  his  narration  is  now  devoted  ;  and  thence,  to 
Fort  Frontenac,  from  which  he  had  been  nearly  four 
years  absent. 

On  his  returning  to  France,  he  published  at  Paris,  in 
1684,  a  description  of  Louisiana,  and  at  Amsterdam,  in 
1698,  an  account  of  other  regions  which  he  had  discov- 
ercd  and  explored.  Thi3  latter  volume,  contains  his  des- 
cription of  the  Falls,  which  is  illustrated  by  an  engraved 
view  of  the  cataract. 

La  Hontan,  who  was  in  Canada  from  1683  to  '89,  in 
his  work  published  in  1703,  gives  a  brief  notice  of  the 
Falls,  which  he  estimated  at  nearly  eight  hundred  feet 
high.  Charlevoix,  the  historian  of  New  France,  paid 
them  a  visit  in  1721,  and  corrected  the  error  of  his  prede- 
cessors,  as  to   the  descent.      Professor  Kulm,    of    the 


!h 


11 


■w 


III 


'■I  If.: 


I 


■'ii 


lilnifii''! 


fl     i   ! 


Mil  :  .  i' 


'II- *l 


M!, 


mi 


;  rflJ' 


138 


tourist's  companion 


Changes  at  the  Falls. 


University  of  Sweden,  was  at  the  Falls,  in  1750,  of  which 
he^gave  an  account,  made  public  in  the  following  year. 

Since  that  time,  others  have  seen,  described  and 
sketched,  the  wonderlul  Niagara;  to  whose  works  it  is 
needless  to  refer,  and  whose  observations  have  been  too 
recent,  or  too  loose  to  establish  any  important  fact,  or 
furnish  data  of  any  present  value. 

The  description  of  Father  Hennepin,  proves  that  in 
1678,  the  general  appearance  of  the  cataract  was  much 
the  same  as  at  that  present,  but  that  in  one  or  two  impor- 
tant particulars,  it  has  undergone  considerable  change. 
The  Horse-shoe  Fall  was  then  nearly  straight,  and  there 
was  also  a  third  cascade,  falling  from  west  to  east,  at  the 
left  of,  and  right  angles  with  the  other  two.  It  is  shown 
in  the  engraving,  as  falling  over  the  Table  Rock,  and  is 
particularly  described  in  the  text.  There  can  be  no 
doubt  as  to  its  existence  and  situation. 

When  Professer  Kalin  was  at  Niagara,  seventy.three 
years  later,  this  third  cascade  was  gone.  He  mentions  it 
however,  and  states  that  a  few  years  before,  there  had 
been  a  great  downfall  of  the  rocks,  when  it  ceased  to 
flow.  Kalm's  account  of  the  Falls,  confirms  the  general 
accuracy  of  Father  Hennepin's  description. 

Other,  but  less  apparent  changes  have  doubtless  taken 
place,  of  which  we  can  only  conjecture  the  quality  and 
extent,  from  the  want  of  precision  in  these  and  other 
authors,  and  our  ignorance  of  ancient  landmarks.  It  is 
probably,  nay,  almost  certain,  that  the  Falls,  and  particu- 
larly the  western  part  of  the  Horse-shoe  cascade,  has 
receded   to  a  considerable   distance  since  the  period    of 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


139 


Changes  at  the  Falls. 


Hennepin's  visit,  or  even  that  of  Professer  Kalm;  but 
unfortunately,  they  furnish  no  data  by  which  we  can 
determine  the  actual  distance  gone  through,  or  the  ratio 
of  retrocession.  Henceforth,  it  will  be  otherwise.  Cor- 
rect maps  and  charts  will  enable  future  observers  to 
ascertain  how  far  the  Falls  have  receded  in  a  given  time, 
and  also  what  alterations  take  place  in  their  shape  and 
general  appearance. 

It  is  highly  probable,  that  more  extended  researches 
than  the  author  had  it  in  his  power  to  make,  might  throw 
some  additional  light  upon  the  past  history  of  the  Falls, 
of  which,  much  ought  to  have  ceen  recorded. 


!lii 


I 

^1 


11,^  h 


I  ! 


140 


tourist's  companion 


CHAPTER    XV. 

ACCIDENTS  AT  THE  FALLS  —  TRADITIONAR\  REMENISCENCE  —  LOSS 
OP  THE  BOAT  INDEPENDENCE — OTHER  CASUALITIES  — DEATH  OF 
DR.   HUNGERFOUD — CONCLUDING   REMARKS. 

"  How  dreadful  must  thy  summons  be,  O  Death ! 
To  him,  who,  counting  on  long  jears  of  pleasure, 
Is  quite  unfurnished  for  the  world  to  come! 
In  that  dread  moment,  how  the  frantic  soul 
Runs  to  each  avenue,  and  shrieks  for  help. 
But  runs  and  shrieks  in  vain!  the  swerveless  foe 
Pursues  her  close  through  every  lane  of  life, 
Nor  misses  once  the  track,  but  presses  on, 
Till  forced  at  last  to  the  tremendous  verge, 
At  once  she  sinks  to  everlasting  ruin." 

CCIDENTSare  by  no  means  of  in- 
frequent occurrence  at  the  Falls,  and, 
indeed,  hardly  a  year  passes  away,  without 
one  or  more  of  a  fatal  character.  The 
great  majority  of  these,  however,  originate 
in  unseasonable  attempts  to  cross  the  river  above  the  cat- 
aract, from  the  mere  vanity  of  daring,  or  while  under  the 
influence  of  partial  intoxication.  The  lawless  pursuit  of 
gain,  by  illicit  importation,  occasionally  furnishes  a  vic- 
tim, and  carelessness  now  and  then  adds  another  to  the 
number.  British  soldiers,  attempting  to  desert,  have  in 
several  instances,  lost  their  lives,  by  drowning;  and  these 
are  the  principal  cases  of  casualty  within  our  remem- 
brance. 

Tradition  tells  many  a  tale  of  persons  going  over  U  u 
Falls  ;  and  among  others,  of  an  Indian  and  squaw,  in 
a  canoe,  who  were  drawn  into  the  rapids,  and  hurried 
down  to  destruction.     It  relates,  that  the  Indian,  when 


"-^^v-- 


n-^ 


TO  NIAGARA  PALLS. 


141 


Accidents  at  the  Fsills. 


he  found  it  impossible  to  escape,  coolly  laid  down  his 
paddle,  and  taking  up  a  bottle  of  whisky,  which  had  been 
the  object  of  his  voyage  to  procure,  deliberately  applied 
it  to  his  lips,  and  kept  sucking  away,  until  be  was  himself 
sucked  in,  by  the  overwhelming  flood  ;  and,  thus  in  a 
spiritual  way,  introduced  himself  to  the  world  of  spirits. 
Whether  or  not,  he  took  a  drop  too  much,  it  is  impossible 
to  say  ;  but  of  this  we  are  certain,  that  he  was  loth  to 
lose  a  drop.  The  poor  squaw  paddled  away  till  the  last, 
and  that  was  the  last  of  both.  This  incident  may  or 
may  not  be  apocryphal,  —  we  half  suspect  it  is,  —  bu  t  it 
illustrates  the  ruling  passion  strong  in  death.  But  to 
matters  of  fact. 

To  enumerate  all  the  accidents  that  have  happened  at 
the  Falls,  would  be  neither  pleasant  or  profitable  ;  but 
as  the  reader  may  desire  to  peruse  a  r«  cord  of  fatal 
DISASTERS,  we  shall  subjoin  a  brief  notice  of  those,  which, 
having  occurred  within  the  last  few  years,  are  most 
readily  recalled  to  mind. 

in  1810,  the  boat  Independence,  heavily  laden  with 
salt,  while  crossing  to  Chippewa,  filled  and  sunk,  and  the 
Captain,  William  Valentine,  and  two  of  his  crew  were 
carried  over  the  Falls.  One,  by  the  name  of  Potter, 
clung  to  an  oar,  and  was  rescued  by  a  boat  from  Chippe- 
wa, when  within  a  few  yards  of  the  rapids.  In  1821, 
two  men  in  a  scow,  were  driven  by  the  wind  from  the 
mouth  of  Chippewa  creek,  into  the  river,  and  swept  over 
the  cataract.  In  1822,  two  men  from  Grand  Island,  met 
with  a  similar  fate.  In  1825,  William  Chambers  and 
anot  r  person,  in  venturing  too  near  the  rapids,  in  a 
can       were  drawn  in,  and   forced   over  the   Fulls.     The 


*■ 


!    'i 


\    -fS    htl 


%M. 


m 


I 'I 


,'il 


Ml 


:  » 


i 


Ij.ij 


m 


142 


tourist's  companion 


Accidents  and  Incidents  —  Remarkable  Escape. 


year  1835,  was  marked  by  the  sacrifice  of  another  victim, 
in  a  similar  manner. 

In  1839,  a  sad  accident,  of  an  unusual  character, 
occurred.  Dr.  Hungerford  of  Troy,  while  standing  near 
the  entrance  to  the  Cave  of  the  winds,  was  struck  on 
the  head,  by  a  fragment  of  rock  falling  from  above,  and 
instantly  killed.  One  or  two  other  persons  who  were 
with  him,  were  slightly  contused.  This  is  the  only 
instance,  in  which  life  has  been  lost  by  such  a  casualty, 
and  the  only  one  in  which  a  visiter  has  ever  been  serious- 
ly injured. 

In  the  summer  of  1841,  several  British  soldiers  were 

drowned,  in  an  attempt  to  desert  by  swimming  the  river. 

In  the  fall  of  the  same  year-  a  boat  with  two  men  in  it, 

crossing  over  from  Chippewa,  capsized  and  was  carried 

over  the  Falls.     On  the  thirty.first  of  January,  1842,  a 

j soldier  attempted  to  let  himself  down  the  bank  near  the 

I  Museum,  intending  to  cross  the  river  on   the  ice, — but 

'the  rope  breaking,  he  was  killed  by  the  fall. 

A  son  of  Scotia,  flying  from  a  party  of  infuriated  Irish- 
men, one  dark  night,  in  the  fall  of  1836,  ran,  by  mistake, 
off  the  bank,  some  thirty  rods  below  the  Falls,  and  fell 
ninety.feet,  to  the  bottom  of  the  precipice,  where  he  was 
found  the  next  day,  in  a  dreadfully  mutilated  and  freezing 
condition.  In  that  night  of  suffering  he  must  have 
endured  more  than  a  hundred  deaths;  and  had  his  rescue 
been  delayed  but  a  short  time  longer,  would  have  perished. 
By  rareful  nursing,  he  was  however,  recovered,  and  ulti- 
mately regained  his  health.  It  was  a  providential  escape. 


}V^ 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


143 


CHAPTER     XVI, 

VESSELS  SENT  OVER  THE  FALLS  •— SCHOONER  MICHIGAN— SCHOONER 
SUPERIOR  —  SHIP  DETROIT  —  SIUBLIME  SPECTACLE  ADVENTUROUS 
DARING— DANGER  AND  RESCUE  OF  CHAPIN— OF  ALLEN— THE  MEED 
OF   MERIT. 

"  Let  the  name  of  the  Hero  swell  high  in  the  song, 
And  his  fleeds  of  destruction  the  chorus  prolong: 
A  fiime  born  of  carnage,  and  reeking  with  blood. 
Though  man  deem  it  glor^',  is  treason  to  God  ; 
And  though  honors  on  earth  may  the  victor  await, 
Can  he  hang  his  red  laurels  on  heaven's  holy  gate  ? 
No —  the  doors  of  that  world  where  no  evil  can  come, 
Ai'e  never  unbarred  at  the  beat  of  the  drum  ; 
But  he  whose  exertions  a  single  life  save. 
Is  greater  than  he  who  gives  thousands  a  grave." 

H;  R  E  E  vessels,  have,  at  as  many  different 
)eriocls,  been  sent  over  the  Falls,  to  gratify 
he  curiosity  of  visiters,  of  whom  large 
lumbers  were  on  each  occasion,  attracted 
)y  the  novelty  of  the  spectacle.  The  Mich- 
igan, a  condemned  schooner,  was  sent  over,  in  1827.  A  | 
bison,  a  bear,  and  a  number  of  other  animals,  were  put  j 
on  board,  to  make  the  passage.  When  all  was  ready,' 
on  the  appointed  day,  she  was  towed  into  the  rapids,  and 
jcast  loose.  Without  sustaining  any  serious  injury,  she 
!  passed  the  first  ledge.  At  the  second,  she  was  less  for- 
tunate :  her  masts  went  by  the  board.  Some  alarm  was 
now  manifested  by  the  passengers,  and  bruin,  deeming  a 
longer  stay  impolitic,  left  the  vessel,  and  made  for  the 
Canada  shore,  which  he  reached  in  safety.  At  the  last 
ledge,  she  was  much  broken  up,  and  in  a  wrecked  and 
water-logged  condition,  reached  the  precipice,  and  fell  to 


:5 


-i; 


144 


tourist's  companion 


Schooner  Superior — Ship  Detroit. 


pieces  down  the  cataract.  Except  the  bear,  and  a  goose 
or  two,  none  of  the  animals  escaped.  About  fifteen  thou- 
sand  spectators  were  present. 

In  1829,  the  schooner  Superior  was  despatched  on  the 
same  voyage.  The  dictates  of  humanity  were  remem- 
bered on  this  occasion,  and  no  lives  were  sacrificed  for 
the  sake  of  amusement.  The  vessel  lodged  on  the  rocks, 
where  she  lay  for  several  days,  and  finally  went  down  in 
the  night  —  piecemeal,  it  is  presumed. 

The  ship  Detroit,  before  alluded  to,  was  sent  down  in 
1841.  Thousands  of  people  assembled  to  see  her  go 
over  the  cataract,  but  were  disappointed,  as  she  grounded 
on  the  rocks,  near  the  last  ledge,  —  which  she  was  dis. 
masted  in  descending,  —  where  a  part  of  her  hull  still 
remains.  A  staunch  vessel,  of  smaller  size,  might,  per. 
haps,  reach  the  brink,  unbroken;  but  large,  and  especially, 
old  and  weak  ones,  like  this,  and  the  two  preceding, 
could  not  by  any  possibility.     It  was  absurb  to  expect  it. 

Sublime,  indeed,  would  be  the  spectacle  of  a  noble 
vessel  careering  down  the  rapids,  and  plunging  from  the 
cataract's  verge  at  one  fearful  leap,  to  the  abyss  beneath; 
but  far  more  sublime  must  have  been  the  scenes  mentioned 
below,  in  which  man  boldly  breasted  the  storm  of  rapids, 
and  the  fear  of  death,  in  a  frail  t^kitf  to  rescue  an  unfortu. 
nate  fellow-creature  from  a  doom  of  horror.  Such  hero, 
ism  must  not  pass  unrecorded,  nor  the  meed  of  praise  be 
withheld. 

The  humane  and  adventurous  daring  of  a  man  by  the 
name  of  Robinson,  a  resident  at  the  Fulls,  has  been  shown 
in  two  instances,  which  deserve  to  be  mentioned.  In  the 
summer  of  1839,  two  men  were  at  work  on  the  bridge  to 


n^ 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


145 


PerilouB  Adventure  —  Joel  R.  Robinson. 


Bath  Island :  one  of  them,  a  Mr.  Chapin,  carelessly  let 
the  end  of  a  plank  touch  the  water,  by  which  it  was 
whirled  under  the  bridge,  and  he  thrown  into  the  stream 
above.  He  was  swept  down  by  the  torrent,  and  his  des- 
truction  seemed  inevitable.  Ly  great  good  fortune,  how- 
ever,  he  succeeded  in  reaching  a  small  island — now  called 
by  his  name  —  in  the  midst  of  the  rapids,  and  not  far 
from  the  cataract.  His  condition  now  appeared  hopeless 
enough —  but  Robinson  thought  otherwise.  A  boat  was 
procured  from  the  ferry,  and  taken  to  Bath  Island,  from 
which  he  embarked  for  the  rescue  of  Chapin,  which  he 
succeeded  in  effecting,  though  at  the  most  imminent  risk 
of  his  own  life. 

In  August,  1841,  a  Mr.  Allen,  crossing  from  Chippewa, 
to  the  American  side,  in  a  skiff,  had  the  ill  luck  to  break 
an  oar,  when  his  boat  became  unmanageable,  and  was 
soon  drawn  into  the  rapids.  In  descending  the  ledge,  the 
boat  filled  and  overset ;  he  was  thrown  out,  but  provi- 
dentially, reached  the  outermost  of  the  Three  Sister  Is- 
lands.  His  situation  was  now  indeed  deplorable,  and 
any  one  but  Robinson,  would  have  deemed  it  hopeless. 
He  failed  in  the  first  attempt  to  rescue  Allen ,  but  not  dis. 
heartened,  renewed  his  efforts  on  the  following  day,  and 
again  proved  successful  in  saving  the  hfe  of  a  fellow-being. 

The  most  consummate  skill,  in  the  management  of  his 
boat,  courage,  presence  of  mind,  and  physical  energy  were 
required  in  both  these  instances,  and  Joel  R.  Robinson, 
has  won  for  himself,  by  the  possession,  and  humane  exer- 
cise of  this  rare  combination  of  good  qualities,  a  name 
that  will  live,  linked  with  the  memory  of  his  deeds,  till 
the  Falls  cease  to  be  admired,  and  —  to  flow. 


'  t 


i!;i 


146 


TOURIST  S    COMPANION 


■ 


ur'mwi 


U 


! 


n    \ 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

PATRIOT   OCCrPATION  Op   NAVY   ISLAND — EMPLOY  OP  THE  CAROLINE 

—  MLSnEPRESKNTATION     AND      HKSOLVE  —  CAROLINE     ATTACKED  — 
DURPKE   MURDERED — VESSEL  FIRED  AND    SENT     OVER     THE  FALLS 

—  EVACUATION   OF  THE    ISLAND. 

"  Niglit  and  siloiu'ecame  down  on  the  beautiful  earth  ; 

Peace  hovered  on  valley  and  hill ; 
Hudhed  becanm  every  soiiud  of  lamenting  or  mirUi» 
And  all  but  thecataratt  still. 
Hark !   bhricks  pierce  the  air ! 
See !   shines  the  red  glare ! 
(iod!  can  thy  creatures  thus  ruthlessly  dare. 
Stain  the  bright  earth  with  a  scene  of  despair? 
Fools!  theyfojget  that  earth  is  not  hell, 
And  rebel." 

U  R  I N  G  the  Canada  insurrection,  in  the 
winter  of   1837,  after  the  faihire    of   the  I 
ittempt  on    Toronto,   and    the  escape    of 
McKenzie  to  the  United   States,  that   indi- 
vidunl,  with  one  Southerland,   and  some 
five  or   six  and    twenty  other?,   principally  refuge es  from  j 
Canada,    at  the  suggestion  of  Dr.   Cyrenus   Chnpin,    of! 
BufTalo,  made  a  lodgment  on  Navy  Island,  in  the  British 
dominion,  and  set  up  the  standard  of  opposition  to  the 
Qtieen's  Colonial  Govcrnmcn*.     The  natural  sympathy 
of  the  American  people,  with  the  patriot  cause,  as  it  was 
termed,  of  McKenzic  and  his  confederates,  soon  displayed 
itself  in  the   arrival  of  1  t"ge   numbers  cf  volunteers,  to 
reinforce   his  little  band,  bringing  with  them  supplies  of 
arms,  ammunition,  ar,d  provisicjns. 

The  distance  of  the  island  from  the  American  shore, 
tlio  velocity  of  the  current,  and  the  want  of  proper  boats, 


11 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


147 


Patriot  War  —  Navy  Island. 


rendered  the  transportation  of  these  volunteers  and 
supplies,  to  the  place  of  their  destination,  a  work  of  great 
labour  and  difficulty.  This  circumstance,  and  the  number 
of  persons,  from  motives  ot  business  or  curiosity,  con- 
stantly desirous  of  passing  and  re-passinof,  from  the  main 
land  to  the  patriot  camp,  suggested  to  Mr.  Wells,  the 
owner  of  a  small  steam-boat,  lying  at  Buffalo,  called 
the  Caroline,  the  idea  of  taking  out  the  necessary  papers, 
and  running  his  vessel  as  a  ferry  boat,  between  the  Ame- 
rican shore  and  the  Islands,  for  his  pecuniary  emolument. 
Acting  upon  this  suggestion,  the  Caroline,  on  Friday,  the 


THE  STEAMBOAT   CAROLINE. 

twenty-ninth  of  December,  left  Buffalo  fur  Schlosser ; 
after  her  arrival,  made  several  trips  to  and  from  the 
island,  on  account  of  the  owner,  and  at  night  was  securely 
moored  to  the  wharf  at  Schlosser. 

Some  person,  or  persons,  residents  of  Canada,  then  at 
Buffalo,  conveyed  intelligence  to  Colonel  McNab,  then 
commanding  her  Majesty's  forces,  about  three  thousand 
strong,  at  Chippewa,  of  the  departure  of  the  Caroline, 
and  her  destination  ;  probably,  mis-slating   the  object  of 


i  11'  m 


li-ii' 


:l  : 


I 


:h!!p 


II 


148 


tourist's  companion 


Destruction  of  the  Caroline. 


her  owner,  and  representing  her  as  in  the  service  of  the 
patriots;  chartered  for  their  use,  and  intended  to  act 
offensively,  against  the  constituted  authorities  of  the  Pro. 
vincial  Government.  Under  this  erroneous  impression, 
that  officer  resolved  to  effect  her  destruction,  and  made 
arrangements  for  putting  his  design  into  immediate  exe- 
cution. The  force  for  this  expedition,  M'as  detailed,  and 
placed  under  the  command  of  Captain  Drew,  a  retired- 
on.half-pay  Commander  of  the  Royal  Navy.  At  mid- 
night  the  men  were  mustered  under  the  personal  super- 
intendance  of  Colonel  McNab;  Captain  Drew  received 
his  final  directions,  and  they  embarked  in  eight  boats  for 
the  scene  of  operation. 

On  the  American  side,  all  was  still,  and  no  one  even 
dreamed  of  danger.  The  fated  vessel  was  full  of  people, 
most  of  whom,  unable  to  obtain  accommodations  at  the 
tavern,  the  only  dwelling  near,  had  solicited  a  night's 
lodging  on  the  Caroline ;  thinking  no  ill,  and  anticipating 
no  harm.  The  boat  was  moored  at  an  American  wharf, 
in  American  waters ;  the  stars  and  stripes  —  the  flag  of 
their  country  —  floated  above  them,  and  they  went  to 
sleep  in  peace,  and,  as  they  thought,  in  safety.  There 
were  no  arms  or  munitions  on  board  ;  and  no  precautions 
were  taken  against  surprise,  for  none  were  thought  neces- 
sary. The  customary  watch  was  set,  the  evening  waned, 
and  night  and  slumber  shed  theirsweet  influence  overall. 

The  young  sailor  on  watch,  was  thinking,  perchance 
of  home,  gazing  at  the  camp-fires  on  the  opposite  shore, 
at  Chippewa,  or  listening,  it  may  be,  to  the  deep  roar  of 
the  cataract,  and  fancying  there  were  bars  of  music  in  its 
sweet,  solemn  tones;  when  suddenly,  he  hears  something 


m 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


149 


Destruction  of  the  Caroline. 


moving  on  the  water  —  oars!  boats! — "Who  goes  there?" 
"Friends*' — another  moment,  and  armed  men  are  crowd- 
ing the  peaceful  deck  of  the  Caroline. —  "Cut  them 
down !  give  no  quarters  ! "  There  is  a  fearful  rush,  — 
the  clashing  of  weapons,  —  reports  of  fire-arms,  —  forms 
half.naked,  and  faces  pale  with  fear,  are  springing  to  the 
shore,  through  blows  and  thrusts  that  rain  above  and 
around  them.  A  moment's  pause  —  another  unarmed 
man  appears,  gazes  wildly  round  —  throws  up  his  hands 
to  ward  off  the  blows  aimed  at  his  life,  and  leaps  upon 
the  dock.  —  A  shout  —  the  crack  of  a  pistol  —  the  flying 
man  falls  heavily  to  the  earth — blood  and  brains  flow 
from  a  new-made  wound  —  a  shiver  —  stillness  —  an  im- 
mortal spirit  has  gone  to  its  great  account -— Durfee  is 
dead  —  and  the  very  soil  of  American  Freedom  has  been 
outraged  by  the  unprovoked  slaughter  of  one  of  her  sons! 

The  Caroline  is  silently  receding  from  the  shore, — a 
spark  —  a  blaze  —  flames! — Heavens,  they  have  fired 
her!  Quickly  the  flames  spread  —  onward  passes  the 
doomed  vessel  —  the  rapids  gather  about  her  —  and  her 
blazing  timbers  fling  a  lurid  and  fearful  glare  upon  the 
mad  sea  of  waters  —  the  dark  scenery  of  the  shores  and 
islands  —  and  the  black  Heaven  above. 

A  bright  beacon  flares  up,  and  lights  the  far-ofl'  shore, 

—  a  shoul  comes  booming  over  the  waters  —  and  a  yell 
of  hatred  and  defiance  rolls  back  from  McKenzie's  host. 

But  the  Caroline  !  —  on,  still  on !  —  Hark  !  was  that  a 
shriek  ?  —  it  may  be  fancy;  —  is  that  a  human  form  ?  — 
Ciod  only  knows!  — on  dashes  the  flame-wrapt  vessel 

—  the  waters  rage  more  impetuously  beneath  her  — she 
reels  —  plunges  — the  forked  flames  play  like  demons 


i: 


(  :■  I 


150 


tourist'8  companion 


Destruction  of  the  Caroline. 


aroand  her  red-hot  pipes  and  bars,  and  over  her  g-lowing 
deck  — the  swrges  beneath  her  hriss,  and  sparkle,  and 
flash  —  on  she  drives  with  a  tempest.speed  through  the 
torture  of  fire  and  blood  —  she  nears  the  precipice — gains 
the  brink  —  a  fiery  plunge  —  the  secrets  of  the  deep  were 
revealed  in  an  instant's  flash  —  the  jaws  of  the  abyss 
opened  and  shut  —  then  «~  all  was  dark, and  the  Caroline 
was  gone  forever  !* 

The  destruction  of  the  Caroline,  and  the  murder  of 
Durfee  excited  the  American  people  along  the  frontier  to 
a  degree  almost  incredible.  In  the  first  fervor  of  indig- 
nation had  any  daring  mind  proposed  such  a  step,  and 
headed  the  movement,  a  force  might  have  been  poured 
into  Canada,  compared  to  which,  the  army  of  McNab 
would  have  been  a  mere  cypher.  But,  although  every- 
body was  in  motion,  although  execration  was  on  every 
lip,  and  arms  in  every  hand,  no  one  thought  of  crossing 
the  river,  and  taking  vengeance  for  the  deed.  The  rea- 
son  was  this.  They  thought  the  outrage  so  great,  so  un- 
paralleled  in  its  atrocity,  that  the  government  must  take 
the  matter  at  once  in  hand  ;  and  that,  unless  the  perpe- 
trators were  instantly  given  up,  Canada  would  be  imme- 
diately  invaded  with  fire  and  sword.  Tlie  people  waited 
for  the  government,  and  so  a  war,  a  bloody  and  sanguin- 
ary war,  was  averted. 

The  force  on  Navy  Island  was  now  about  six  hundred 
strong.    Compliments  at  the  cannon's  mouth  had  been 


*  It  is  believed,  that  there  was  several  perBons  on  board  the  CaroKne,  when 
she  went  over  the  Falli),  who  had  concealed  thenisei'ves  in  terror  below,  at  tiie 
time  of  the  attack.  Certain  it  is,  that  five  or  six  inilividuals  were  missing  from 
that  night,  of  whose  fat»  no  other  supposition  is  prob.ibte. 


^^ 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


151 


Evacuation  of  Navy  Island. 


exchanged  with  the  forces  at  Chippewa,  and  one  man  onj 

the  Island   had   been  killed.     Preparations  were  making! 

to  cross  into  Canada,  when,  by  the  prompt  interposition  ' 

of  General   Scott,  the  Island   was   evacuated,  and    the  | 

Patriot  army  dispersed,  i 

Such  is  a  faithful  history  of  the  rise,  progress,  and  ter- ! 

mination  of  the  Navy  Island  War,  in  which  one  man  was 

I 
killed,  and  nobody  wounded  !     And  such,  also,  a  concise  j 

account  of  the  capture  and  destruction  of  the  Caroline, 

and  the  death  of  Durfee,  according  to  the  best  of  Anieri- 1 

can  knowledge  and  belief.  i 


i  ■ 


F 

1 

/ 

■ 

\  li 


t  i 


ll  ' 


I 


152 


TOURIST  S    COMPANION 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 

'  HERMIT  OF  THE  PALLS  -—  HIS  ARRIVAL  AT  MAOARA  --  EFrECT  OF 
THE  SCENERY — HIS  HABITS,  MANNERS,  AND  ENDOWMENTS  —  RE- 
SIDENCE AND   DEATH  —  OTHER    PARTICULARS. 

"  Rut  soon  he  knew  himself  the  most  unfit 

Of  men,  to  herd  with  Man  ;  with  whom  he  held 

Little  in  common ;  untiught  to  submit 

His  thoughts  to  others,  thougli  his  soul  was  quelled 

In  youth,  by  his  own  thoughts;  still,  uncompelled, 

He  would  not  yield  dominion  of  his  mind 

To  spirits  against  whom  bis  own  rebelled  ; 

Proud,  though  ki  desolation  ;   which  could  find 

A  life  within  itself,  to  breathe  without  nxinkind." 

RANCIS  ABBOTT  —  the  Hermit 
)f  the  Falls,  whose  unsocial  life,  and  un- 
imely  fate,  have  made  a  deep  impression 
ipon  the  public  mind,  may  justly  claim  the 
jGurtesy  of  a  notice,  lar  more  lengthy  than 
our  limits  will  permit  —  we  must  be  brief.  There  is  a 
charm  in  every  mystery  that  attracts  obseivation,  and 
excites  curiosity.  His  character  is  a  sealed  volume  —  his! 
life  scarcely  less  so — both  are  inexplicable.  The  written 
page?  of  his  heart  and  mind  are  open  to  the  All-Seeing 
alone. 

In  humble  guise,  he  came  to  Niagara  in  1829,  to 
remain  perlinps,  for  a  week.  He  grew  enamored  of  the 
place.  The  glorious  scenery  wooed  his  melancholy  spirit 
by  its  sublime  grandeur.  His  vi«it  was  prolonged,  • — 
month  after  month  rolled  away,  and  still  he  lingered  upon 
its  sounding  shores.  Shunning  all  society  but  the  com- 
panionship  of  nature  ;  with  her  only  could  his  soul  stoop 
to  be  intimate.     The  darkest  seclusions,  the  most  dan- 


I? 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


153 


Francis  Abbott —  the  Hermit. 


gerous  paths,  and  the  iTiOst  august  scenes,  alone  seemed 
to  possess  charms  for  his  idiosyncracy  of  mind. 

Learned,  accomplished,  travelled,  gifted  with  personal 
beauty,  conventional  elegance^  and  singular  powers  of 
pleasing,  why  should  he  withdraw  from  communion  with 
his  kind,  and  choose  Nature  and  Solitude  for  his  only 
ministers?  Music  and  letters  were  the  only  luxuries  in 
which  he  indulged  :  —  his  music  was  hushed  when  a  step 
approached,  —  wha  tever  he  wrote,  was  destroyed  almost 
as  soon  as  written. 

Sometimes,  but  rarely,  he  would  converse,  and  elo- 
quence seemed  to  sit  upon  his  tongue  —  more  frequently, 
he  would  indulge  in  moody  silence,  repelling  every 
attempt  to  engage  him  in  discourse.  He  was  notmisan. 
thropic,  for  he  did  not  hate  or  despise,  but  only  avoid,  his 
feilow-men.  He  was  imbued  with  a  deep  sense  of  religion, 
and  led  a  blameless  life. 

He  asked  permission  to  build  a  hut  on  one  of  the  Three 
Sisters,which  he  desired  to  insolate  by  a  draw-bridge,  but; 
was  refused.  He  lived  on  Iris  Island  about  twenty  months, 
in  an  old  house  yet  standing ;  and  when  driven  from  that, 
by  the  intrusion  of  a  family,  he  erected  a  hut  on  the  brow 
of  the  bank,  below,  but  near  Prospect  Point,  in  which  he 
resided  till  his  death,  which  occurred  in  June,  1831.  He 
went  into  the  river,  below  the  Falls,  to  bathe,  according 
to  his  usual  custom,  and  was  shortly  missed  by  the  ferry- 
man. His  body  was  found  at  Fort  Niagara,  ten  days  after 
his  decease,  and  removed  to  the  Falls  for  burial.  His  age 
was  about  twenty-eight  years. 

An  allowance,  ample  for  his  maintenance,  was  fur. 
nished  by  his  friends  in  England,  —  his  father  is  rector  of 


{  m 


}     i 


154 


TOURIST  8    COMPANION 


The  Hermit. 


a  parish  in  that  country.  Little  else  is  known  of  his  his- 
tory, than  we  have  here  related.  His  unsocial  and  other 
eccentricities,  have  given  him  the  title  of  *  Hermit  of  the 
Falls,*  and  much  curiosity  is  manifested  by  visiters,  as  to 
his  character  and  habits.  He  sleeps  in  death,  by  the 
scenes  he  loved  while  living,  peace  to  his  repose ! 


I       i 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


155 


CHAPTER     XIX. 

MASSACRE  AT  THE  DEVIL's  HOLE — BRITISH  CONVOY — INDIAN  AM- 
BUSCADE—  ATTACK,  SURPRISE,  DEFEAT,  CATASTUOPHE — ESCAPE 
OF   S TEADMAN   AND   ONE   OTHER  —  RELICS,   ETC. 

"  War  mount:)  his  iron  car  —  and  at  his  wheels 
In  vain  soft  Pity  weeps,  and  Mercy  kneels ; 
He  waves  his  flaming  dart,  and  oVr  the  plains, 
In  mournful  silence,  Desolation  reigns. 
What  tides  of  ruin  mark  his  nithless  way  I 
How  shriek  the  fiends,  exulting  o'er  their  prey  I 
In  vain,  with  generous  rage  the  valiant  burns  ; 
One  common  ruin,  one  promiscuous  grave, 
O'erwlielmes  the  dastard,  and  receives  the  brave  !  " 

T  THE  Devil's  Hole,  the  upper  bank, 
receding  from  the  river,  and  leaving  the 
rock  nearly  bare,  forms  a  sort  of  amphithc- 
atre,  bounded  on  one  side  by  the  precipice, 
and  on  the  other,  by  the  hills  that  circle 
round  it.  The  road  across  this  plain  or  hollow,  passing 
the  very  brink  of  the  fearful  gulf  with  the  demon-name, 
rises  the  bank  or  hill,  in  either  direction,  and  stretches 
away  to  the  Falls  and  Lewiston.  A  thick  forest  covered, 
—  at  the  time  of  which  we  speak — the  little  vale  or 
plain,  and  the  ascent  by  which  it  was  environed,  render, 
ing  it  one  of  those  advantageous  points  for  an  ambuscade, 
of  which  Indian  sagacity  so  frequently  availed  itself 
during  the  early  struggles  of  the  country. 

In  1759,  after  the  English  had  obtained  posssession  of 
Fort  Niagara,  and  established  a  post  at  Schlosser  ;  and 
while  the  war  with  the  French  was  yet  raging,  a  supply 
of  provisions  and  stores  for  the  latter  place,  left  Fort 
Niagara,  under  the  convoy  of  about  one  hundred  British 
regulars.     Nothing  disturbed  their  march  for  many  miles; 


'\:V 


ii 


'.'  \ 


lii 


^  I 


!•   )' 


156 


TOURIST  S    COMPANION 


Destruction  of  British  Forces  at  the  Devil's  Ho!e. 


and  at  length,  the  close  military  order  they  had  hitherto 
preserved,  was  gradually  relaxed,  and  they  straggled 
carelessly  on — the  drivers  whistling  merrily  to  their 
sluggish  oxen,  the  soldiers  scattered  along  the  hanks  of 
the  stream,  gazing  eagerly  at  the  romantic  and  beautiful 
scenery  which  its  course  constantly  presented,  and  impa- 
tient to  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  wonderful  cataract,  the 
sound  of  whose  mighty  roar  had  been  for  miles  in  their 
ears,  —  some,  pressing  ahead  with  an  animated  and  im- 
patient  curiosity ;  some,  lingering  to  feast  their  eyes  on 
the  sublime  progress  of  the  river,  threading  its  walled 
and  winding  passage  ;  and  others,  lounging  indolently 
behind,  and  often  pausing  to  rest  in  the  cool  shade,  for 
the  S'.ason  was  summer,  and  the  day  intensely  hot;  —  a 
fatal  sense  of  fancied  security  had  fallen  upon  all. 

The  Indians,  on  the  frontier,  were  devoted  to  the 
French  interest,  and  this  was  to  good  an  opportunity  to 
be  lost,  of  showing  their  zenl  in  the  cause  of  iheir  allies, 
and  striking  terror  to  the  hearts  of  their  enemies.  Farm- 
er's Brother,  a  distinguished  Chief  of  the  Senecas,  with 
a  band  of  his  best  warriors,  to  the  number  of  several 
hundred,  ambushed  the  party,  at  the  Devil's  Hole,  ex- 
tending  his  line  along  the  hill,  quite  around  the  little 
plain,  thus  cutting  off'  every  hope  of  escape.  Silent  as 
the  grave,  and  yet  watchful  as  the  eye  of  Fate,  lay  these 
human  tigers,  waiting  for  their  prey. 

On  came  the  convoy,  in  the  broken,  formless,  scatter- 
ed  order  we  have  described,  —  each  pursuing  his  march 
as  best  suited  himself.  Without  a  suspicion  of  danger, 
ihcy  reached  the  valley,  and  pausing  at  the  Devil's  Hole, 
huddled  around  its  brink,  and  knew  not  death  lay  couch- 


••Jii.! 


TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


157 


Wonderful  escape  of  two  persons. 


ing  in  the  awful  depth  that  confronted  their  gaze.    When 
all  were  in  the  snare,  the  net  was  sprung. 

Suddenly,  the  profound  srMlness  that  had  hitherto, 
unbroken  except  by  the  cataract's  roar,  reigned  over  all, 
was  burst  by  a  tremendous  volley  of  fire-arms,  and  the 
more  terrible  yells  of  the  savages,  who  closed  in,  and 
rushed  upon  their  prey.  There  was  no  time  to  rally,  for 
prayers,  or  defence.  The  tomahawk  and  the  knife  were 
at  their  deadly  work.  Drivers  were  brained  in  their 
seats,  and  soldiers  stabbed  where  they  stood.  So  sud. 
denly  was  the  onset,  and  so  violent  the  assult,that  half 
the  convoy  was  killed  in  the  first  moments  of  surprise, 
and  the  remainder  thrown  into  hopeless  confusion, 
almost  before  they  had  time  to  raise  an  arm  or  level  a 
gun.  Never  was  surprise  more  successful,  or  destruction 
more  complete.  The  little  run  poured  its  torrent  again 
over  the  precipice,  and  down  the  chasm —  but  it  was  a 
stream  of  blood  !  Men,  horses,  wagons,  cattle,  stores, 
all  in  one  promiscuous  mass  were  forced  over  tlie  bank, 
and  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  rocks  below,  while  the 
fiendish  yells  of  the  savages  drowned  thtii  sliricks  and 
groans,  and  thundered  from  the  rocks  and  clitla  above, 
wild,  terrible,  and  triumphant ! 

But  two  persons  escaped.  One,  a  Mr.  Stcadman, 
striking  spurs  into  his  horse,  a  fine  and  fleet  steed,  and 
dashing  f»rward  at  the  first  moment  of  alarm,  succeeded 
in  breaking  through  the  Indian  line,  and  mnking  good  his 
retreat.  He  reached  Fort  Schlosser  in  safety,  and  with, 
out  a  wound,  though  his  clothes  and  saddle,  were  pierced 
with  balls.  The  other,  a  soldier,  who  was  forced  down 
the  precipice,    in   the    general  fall,  was     providentiully 


!     r. 


lliiiS 


!""«!': 


158 


tourist's  companion 


Relics  of  the  disii»ter. 


caught  by  the  belt,  on  the  pointed  limb  of  a  tree,  where 
he  hung,  concealed  by  the  foliage,  from  the  lynx-eyed  ^ 
search  of  the  Indians,  who  despatched  every  thing  thcyj 
could  find,  tliat  had  life  —  until  the  return  of  night  and' 
stillnes?,  convinced  him  the  ioe  had  retired,  when  he  I 
cautiously  descended,  and  groped  his  toilsome  way  to j 
Fort  Niagara,  which  place  he  reached,  with  the  first 
intelligence  of  the  fate  of  his  party. 

It  is  but  a  few   years   since,  bones,   bits    of  broken 
wagons,  and   many  other  relics  of  this    fearful   catastro-l 
phe,  were  to  be  seen  at  the  bottom  of  the  gulf ;  but  they  j 
are  now  concealed  beneath  the  rubbish,  swept  away  by  j 
the  stream,  or  returned  to  dust. 

The  Indians  held  Mr,  Steadman  in  great  respect,  ever 
after  his  so  nar.ow  and   fortunate  escape,  believing  that 
he  was  a  "Great    Medicine,"    and    gifted   with   magical ' 
powers.     They  gave  him,  it  was  said,  all  the  land  he  had  i 
encompassed    in    his   flight,    which   would    include     all! 
between  the   river  and   a   line  from  the  Devil's    Hole  to 
F^ort  Schlosper.     His  heirs  Fct  up  a  claim  to  this  tract   in 
after  years,  but  as  they  could  prove  no  formal   grant,  and 
of  course  establish  no  title,  it  was  denied. 


l^ 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


159 


CHAPTER    XX, 

NOAII'S  POLLY  '.—BRILLIANT  CONCEPTION  —  UNPARALLELED  PRO- 
CLAMATION— MAGNIFICENT  PAGEANTR\  —  MEMORIALS  OF  THESE 
WONDERFUL    EVENTS  —  SUBLIME   FINALE. 

"Hey,  (lidtlle  diddle, 

The  cat's  in  the  fiddle, 
The  cow 's  jumped  over  the  moon, 

The  httle  dog  laughed, 

To  see  such  a  craft. 
And  the  dish  ran  away  with  tlie  spoon." 

"  Riiio  a  cock  horse  to  Banbury  cross, 
To  HL'ii  ;i:i  old  woman  upon  a  white  horse, 
With  lings  on  her  fingers,  andbelbon  her  toes, 
She  will  have  music  wherever  she  goen." 

N  T  H  E  year  of  Adam,  5586,  a  learned 
iJiJ  worthy  Hebrew,  bearing  the  name  of 
Mordecai    Manuel   Noah,    conceived    the 
ii-<^  luminous   and  brilliant  idea,  that   he  was 
i  ^hc  identical  'Manuel  destined   to  gather 
together  the  dispersed  and  persecuted  people  of  that  once 
powerful  and  prosperous,  but  now  wandering  and  wretch- 
ed  race,  the  Jews;  and  selected  Grand  Island   for  the 
Ark  of  safety,  Arrarat,  or   New  .Icrusalem,  of  which   he 
iwas  to  be  the  Noah,  Proprietor,  Prince  and  Patriarch. 
!     This  remarkable  persoiiagp,  in  whom  were   combined 
;liic  great  names,  and  great  qualities  of  some  of  the  most 
remarkable    personages    in    .Jewish    history,   thereupon 
appointed  himself  •*  Governor  and  Judge  of  Israel,"  and  ; 
—  having  put  forth  a  proclamation,  aimouncing  this   im- 
portant  fact,    einimcrating    the   many   offices  of   trust, 
honor,  and   profit,  which    he  had   ihen-beforc  filled,  as 


r 


r 

» i* 


I 


I    :i 


w 


ll 


160 


TOURIST'S  COMPANION 


Grand  Island  —  City  of  Arrarat. 


Consul  to  Tunis,  Sheriff  of  New- York,  etc,  reviving  the 
Jewish   Nation,  ordering  a  census,   levying  a  capitation 
tax,  abolishing  polygamy,  recognizing  the  fraternity  of 
*he  American   Indians  as  the   lost  tribes,  directing   mnny 
other  general  and  particular  matters  of  faith,  and  practice, 
morals  and  government,  naming  a  day  of  thanksgiving, 
and  inviting  all  the  scattered  remnants  of  Judaism  in  all  | 
parts  of  the  earth,  to  come  forthwith  to  the  United  States,  j 
New- York,  Grand   Island,  Ararat,  the  City  of  Refuge 
and  submit  to  his  spiritual  and  temporal,  gubernatorial,  I 
and  judical   authority,   and  not   forgetting  to  bring  their; 
gold,  silver,  and   precious  stones,  —  proceed   to  the  wesst 
to  lay  the  corner  stone  of  the   Synagogue,  with  solemn  i 
and  appropriate  ceremonies,  and  to  found,  consecratr, 
and  eternize,  the  mighty,  magnificent  and  many.peopled 

City  of  Ararat ! 

i 
But,  alas  !  the  site   of   the   city   was   an   untouched  i 

wilderness:  Buffalo  was  the  nearest  place  of  any  mag- 
nitude, und  there,  accordingly,  the  grand    imposing,  and  i 
never-suf1ficiently-to-be-remembered     ceremonial    took  i 
place.     The  corner  stone  was  borne  in  solemn  state,  to 
the  Espif^copal  church    of  St.   Paul ;  the   self.nppointcd 
Ruler  of  the    Hebrews,  the  self-constituted    Ciovernor  of  > 
the  Jews,  and  the  self-created  Judge  of  IsrocI,  in  the  : 
flowing   robes   and    rich   vestments  *   of   his     assumed 

functions  —  ''pride  in  his  port,  exultancc   in  his  eye," ' 

himself  headed  the  vast  procession,  composed   of  more 
than  three  hundred  men,  women,  children,  idlers,  loafers,  j 
and  ragamuffins.     The  inaugural  address  dehvercd,  and  i 

i 

"  An  old  triuJgody  dresi,  Itorrowed  from  Uie  Park  Tlieatre. 


's*Sl 


1 


^ 


TO    NIAGARA    FALLS. 


161 


Laying  of  the  Corner  Stone. 


the  exercises  over,  the  numerous  assemblage,  the  Gover- 
nor, Judge,  and  Corner  Stone  retired  in  the  same  order  of 
procession,  with  the  same  pomp,  decorum,  and  dignity. 

The  corner-stone  was  soon  after  planted  on  Grand 
Island,  but  never  took  root,  and  grew  up  to  a  Synagogue; 
and  the  only  memorials  of  these  great  and  wonderful 
events,  and  the  great  and  wonderful  city  which  was  to 
be,  but  was  not,  are  to  be  found  in  the  Books  of  the 
Chronicles  of  the  times,  and  the  monument,  erected  on 
the  Island  by  the  Governor,  Judge,  and  Ruler  of  the  Jews, 
which  is  composed  of  brick,  mortar,  and  wood,  which  is 
yet  stanJin^-,  and  bears  on  it3  eastern  front,  a  stone 
tablet,  on  which  are  engraved  the  following  words, 
figures  and  characters. 

ARRAR  A  T, 
A  CITY   OF    REFUGE    FOR   THE  JEWS. 
Founded  by  Mordecai  M.  Noah  ;  in  tiie  month 

Tizri,  5i>80, 
Sniitember,  1825,  in  the  5iitli  year  of  AnR'riiaa 
Independence. 

The  foreign  Priests,  and  Rabbis  of  the  Jews,  could 
not,  and  would  not —  at  all  events,  did  not,  recognize  or 
ratify  the  self-assuined  powers  of  Mordecai  Manuel 
Noah,  Rabbi  Ben  Humhug,  and  the  whole  scheme, 
the  city,  the  synagogue,  and  the  offices  of  Governor  and 
Judge  vanished  into  thin  air.  Here  endcth  the  history  of 
Mordecai  the  Jew. 


' 


r  D 


'.    '       I 


T 


162 


PECKS'  TOURIST'S  COMPANION. 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


CHAPTER    XXI. 

The  traveller  can  have  a  choice  of  conveyances  from 
Albany  to  the  Springs  at  Saratoga  or  Ballston  Spa,  viz. 

1st.  From  Albany  via  Schenectady,  on  the  Mohawk 
and  Hudson  Railroad.,  and  the  Saratoga  and  Schenectady 
Railroad,  terminates  at  the  village  of  Saratoga  Springs. 
Total  distance,  37  miles. 

2d.  Fi  om  Troy,  on  the  Schenectady  and  Troy  Railroad, 
20  miles;  thence  by  railroad  to  Saratoga  Springs,  a  fur- 
ther distance  of  21  miles. 

3.  From  Troy,  on  the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Rail- 
road, terminating  at  Ballston  Spa,  a  distance  of  24  miles, 
there  rniting  with  the  railroad  extending  from  Schenec- 
tady  to  Saratoga  Spri:;gs. 

Saratoga  Springs,  is  probably  the  most  celebrated 
w^atering  place  on  the  Globe  ;  strangoris  from  about  every 
part  of  the  world  annually  congregate  here  during  the; 
Summer  months,  and  as  a  large  proportion  of  them  come  I 
for  the  purp')S0  of  seeking  health  and  invjgoration,  their 
stay  hero  is  necessarily  much  longer  than  at  other  cele- 
brated resorts,  wliere  the  palisfaction  of  curiosity  is  the 
oi:ly  object ;  —  'bus  giving  tiie  otherwise  quiet  village  all 


1 


s. 


from! 
a,  viz. 
ohawk 
ectady 

piings. 


iilroad^\ 
I,  a  fur- 

a  Mail- 
4  miles,' 
chcncc- 

lebratcd 
Lit  every 
ing  the 
■m  come 
:)Uj  their 
ler  cclc- 
t)'  is  tliej 
iUage  all 


I 


>i 


SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 


163 


Early  history  of  the  Springs. 


the  appearance,  as  far  as  population  is  concerned,  of  a 
large  city. 

The  village  of  Saratoga  Springs,  pleasantly  situated 
on  a  plain,  surrounded  in  part  by  a  beautiful  grove  of 
pine  trees,  is  the  most  noted  watering  place  in  the  Union, 
the  mineral  springs,  possessing  great  medicinal  properties, 
vary  somewhat  in  their  analyses.  It  is  built  chiefly  on 
one  broad  street,  and  the  numerous  large  hotels  and 
houses  for  the  acconmiodation  of  visiters,  give  it  an  impo- 
sing appearance.  It  was  incorporated  in  1816,  and  now 
contains  about  3,000  inhabitants,  upwards  of  300  dwell, 
ing  houses,  Presbyterian,  Episcopal,  Baptist,  Methodist, 
Universalist  and  Roman  Catholic  Churches  ;  an  incorpa. 
ted  academy,  a  female  seminary  and  several  select  schools; 
the  Young  Men's  Association,  stores  of  different  kinds, 
iron  foundries,  machine  shops,  an  extensive  carriage 
manufactory,  3  printing  cfiiccs,  &c.,  &.c. 

The  hotels  and  boarding  houses  are  numerous,  and 
many  of  them  are  equal  in  splendor  and  extent  to  the 
best  establishments  in  the  United  States.  The  price  of 
board  per  week  is  from  ^10  to  ^12,  and  from  ^1,50  to 
^2  per  day  at  the  best  houses.  Board  and  lodging  can 
be  had  in  tlic  village  at  the  private  boarding  houses  from 
$\  to  ^\2  per  week.  After  having  selected  your  quar- 
ters, the  first  object  of  interest  is  the  Springs. 

At  what  particular  period  these  springs  were  first  dis- 
covered,  is  still  a  matter  of  conjecture.  As  early  as 
1773,  a  settlement  was  made  here,  a  little  west  of  the 
High  Hock  Spring,  for  the  double  purpose  of  trading  with 
the  Indians,  and  accommodating  invalids.  The  High 
Rock  and  Flat  Rock  were  the  only  springs  at  that  time 


i  i 


!'    I 


VH 


i^ 


164 


tourist's  companion 


Analysis  of  Congress  Spring. 


known.  The  Congress  Spring  was  first  discovered  in 
1792.  There  are  now  within  the  distance  of  abovat  half 
a  mile,  some  ten  or  twelve  important  mineral  fountains, 
flowing  to  the  surface,  and  most  of  them  located  near  the 
margin  of  a  brook  which  runs  through  the  village  on  the 
east.  Congress  Spring,  Washington  Spring,  Putnam's 
Spring,  Pavillion  Springs,  Iodine  Spring,  Hamilton  Spring, 
and  the  Flat  Rock  and  High  Rock  Springs,  may  be  named 
as  the  most  valuable  for  their  medicinal  properties,  and  as 
objects  of  curiosity.  A  cluster  of  mineral  springs  known 
as  \he  *' Ten  Springs,"  are  situated  about  one  mile  cast 
of  the  village.  The  most  celebrated  of  these  springs  is 
known  as  the  Union  Spring. 

The  following  are  analyses  of  some  of  some  of  the 
principal  Springs  of  Saratoga. 

Congress  Spring — From  experiments  and  deductions 
of  Dr.  Steel,  one  gallon,  or  231  cubic  inches  of  the  water 
of  the  Congress  Spring,  is  found  to  contain  the  following 


substances,  viz. 

Chloride  of  Sodium,  (sea  salt) 
Hydriodatc  of  Soda, 
Bi-carbonate  of    **        - 

"  of  Magnesia, 

Carbonate  of  Lime,       -        -        - 

"  of  Iron, 

Silex, 

Hydro-bromate  of  Potash,  a  trace. 

Total  grainSj 

Carbonic  acid  gas,  cubic  inches^     - 
Atmospheric  air,       -        -        - 

Gaseous  contents, 


Grains. 

38,'5,000 
3,500 
8,982 
95,788 
98,098 
5,075 
1,500 


597,943 

311 

7 

318 


SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 


165 


Putnam's  Congress  Spring. 


Putnam's  Congress  Spring,  is  located  a  few  rods  east 
of  iho  United  States  Hotel.  The  following  is  un  analysis 
taken  by  James  R.  Chilton,  M.  D.  of  New. York  city. 
One  gallon  of  water  contains  the  following  ingredients, 
viz. 


Grains. 

Chloride  of  Sodium,           -         -         - 

m 

214,00 

Carbonate  of  Sodii,         .... 

14,32 

"          of  Lime, 

m 

68,80 

Iodide  of  Sodium,  with  a  trace  of  Bromid 

e 

of  Potasoium,           .         .         .         - 

- 

2,00 

Phosphate  of  Lime,         .         .         .         - 

,21 

Sulphate  of  Soda,       .         .         .         - 

. 

1,68 

Carbonate  «.(   Miignesin,          -         .         - 

51,60 

**          of  Iron,     -         -         -         - 

- 

7,00 

Silicia,            .--..- 

,84 

Alumina,             

• 

,56 

Total,           -        .        .        . 

- 

361,01 

Carbonic  acid,  cithic  inches^ 

. 

341,88 

Atmospheric  ai,-, 

6,04 

Total, 347,92 

The  gases  were  obtained  and  analyzed  at  the  Spring, 
I  the  temperature  of  the  water  being  51*^  Fahrenheit,  in 
'July. 


Pavillion  Fountain. — This  celebrated  medicinal  foun- 
tain rises  in  a  valley  near  the  Pavillion  Hotel,  [destroyed 
by  fire  in  1843,]  and  was  tubed  up  from  a  depth  of  forty 
'feet,  in   May,  1840,  after  incredible  labor  and  expense. 
iThe  great  curiosity  it  excited,  and  the  crowds  which  it 
•  attracted,  induced  the  proprietors  to  have  the  same  anal- 


h 


u 


I     I 

i 


f  <♦-?  I  ■ 


■  » 


r  i 


■ill'   if't 


H 


166 


TOURIST  8    COMPANION 


Pavillion  and  Union  Springs. 


yzed  in  August  I'ollowmg,  when  one  gallon  of  water  was 


found  to  contain  these  constituents,  viz. 

Chloride  of  Sodium, 
Carbonate  of  Magnesia, 

**         of  Lime,    - 
Carbonate  of  Soda, 
Oxide  of  Iron, 
Iodide  ot  Sjdium,  ) 

Bromide  of  Potassinm,    J 
Silica,        -         .         . 
Alumina,        ... 

Total, 

Carbonic  acid  gas. 
Atmospheric  air, 


Grains. 

226,58 

62,50 

60,24 

4,70 

3,10 

2,75 

,62 
,25 

361,74 

480,01 
8,09 


Cubic  inches^        .         .         ,  488,10 

The  quantity  of  gas  which  envolves  from  the  Pavillion 
Fountain  is  double  its  volume  of  water;  which  fact  ren- 
ders it  an  object  of  great  curiosity,  and  increases  its  me- 
dicinal properties. 


Union  Spring,  one  of  the  most  celebrated  of  the  *'Tcn 
Springs,"  analyzed  in  1841,  by  James  R,  Chilton,  M.  D. 
One  gallon  of  this  water  contains  the  following  ingre- 


dients  : 

Grains. 

Chloride  of  Sodium, 

•         • 

. 

243,620 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia, 

• 

. 

84,265 

**              Lime, 

. 

. 

41,600 

"              Soda, 

—         . 

. 

12,800 

**              Iron, 

.         . 

. 

5,452 

Iodide  of  Sodium, 

. 

. 

3,600 

A  trace  of  Bromide  of  Potassium,  Silica 

and 

Alumina,       .        -        . 

m 

1,570 

Total, 

392,907 

■! 


was 


.0 


SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 


167 


Iodine  and  Washington  Springs. 


Carbonic  acid  gas,  (from  water  bottled  four 

weeks,)  ------     314,16 

Atmospheric  air,   -----  4,62 


Cubic  inches. 


318,78 


Iodine  Spring,  is  a  new  fountain,  located  a  few  rods 

north  of  the  celebrated  High  Rock  Spring.     According 

to   an    analysis  of  Professor  Emmons,  of  the  Medical 

College  in  Albany,  one  gallon  of  this  water  contains  the 

following  ingredients : 

Grains. 

Muriate  of  Soda, 187 

Carbonate  of  Lime,  -         -         -         -  26 

Iron,         -.--.] 
Magnesia,     .         -         .        -  75 

Soda, 2 

Hydriodate  of  Soda  or  Iodine,     -        -        -  3^ 


It 
u 
tt 


Total, 


294i 


Carbonic  acid  gas  (water  bottled  three  weeks,)     330 
Atmospheric  air,  -----        4 

Cubic  incheSf     -        -  -         -     334 

The  freedom  of  this  water  from  iron  is  truly  remarka- 
ble, and  as  Professor  E.  remarks,  "supplies  a  desideratum 
which  has  been  long  wanting,  viz.  a  water  which  may  be 
drank  by  a  certain  class  of  invalids  lo  vn  lom  iron  proves 
a  decided  injury. 


WASHiNaTON  Spring,  is  situated  in  a  southwest  direc- 
tion  from  Congress  Spring.     It  is  a  sparkli  »  acidulous 


. «, 


-i 


0% 


^ 


V2 


/. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


12.8 


no 


Ui 


I.I 


■^  Uii   12.2 

£f    1^    12.0 

■It 


I 


Photographic 

Sdaices 

Corporation 


// 


^  .^A 


|||l.25     1.4    III  1.6 

^ 

6"     

». 

^^^' 


23  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WIUTIR.N.Y.  MStO 

(716)  •73-4903 


'^ 


aHSSBBS 


168 


TOURIST'S  COMPANION 


Medicinal  Use  of  the  Waters. 


water;  its  temperature  is  50  degrees,  and  one  gallon  of 

it  affords  the  following  articles,  viz. 

Grains. 
-    281,50 
-  16,50 
.      40,92 
92,60 
3,25 
1,50 
2,75 


phloride  of  Sodium, 

Bi.carbonate  of  Soda,     -         -        . 

**  of  Magnesia, 

Carbonate  of  Lime,        -        -        . 

**  of  Iron,     -        -        - 

Silex, 

Hydriodate  of  Soda, 

Solid  contents  in  a  gallon. 

Carbonic  acid  gag,  cubic  inches. 
Atmospheric   air,  -        .         - 


439,02 

262,50 
6,80 


Gaseous  contents  in  a  gallon,  -  269,30 
The  bottling  and  exportation  of  these  waters  has 
become  a  trade  of  no  mean  amount,  affording  employ- 
ment to  a  large  number  of  persons,  and  a  handsome  reve- 
nue to  those  engaged.  No  charge  is  made  to  visiters  for 
the  use  of  the  waters,  except  a  trifling  fee  to  the  "dipper" 
and  even  this  is  at  the  option  of  the  visiter. 

Medicinal  use  of  the  Saratoga  Waters. — The  use 
of  these  waters  either  as  a  drink  or  for  bathing,  has 
become  so  general  for  certain  classes  of  diseases  that  it 
would  be  deemed  almost  supererogatory  to  give  any 
thing  like  directions  here  ;  still  a  few  remarks  are  appen- 
ded which  may  be  of  use  to  the  valetudinarian.  Those 
seriously  nffrcted  with  disease  will  of  course  take  the 
advice  of  a  regular  and  scientific  physician  as  to  the 
proper  course  in  relation  to  the  use  of  the  waters. 

Those  who  desire  the  waters  to  operate  as  a  cathartic, 
are  recommended  to  rise  early  and  repair  to  the    spring 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 

Effects  of  Bathing. 


169 


which  they  prefer,  and  take  two  tumblers  of  the  water ; 
then  a  little  exercise — a  walk,  after  which  one  more 
glass  may  be  taken.  In  most  cases  this  will  be  sufficient 
but  some  persons  require  more,  and  a  glass  may  be  taken 
at  Putnam's  Congress,  the  Pavilion,  the  Monroe,  Flat 
Rock  and  Walton  Springs,  in  oil  about  four  pints.  This 
is  the  utmost  limit,  and  seems  to  be  too  large  a  quantity  ; 
but  even  six  pints  have  been  allowed  ;  but  more  should 
in  no  case  be  taken.  Some  however,  have  imprudently 
taken  much  larger  quantities. 

As  a  daily  drink,  from  four  to  eight  glasses  is  a  suita- 
ble  quantity  ;  ordinarily  it  is  not  advisable  to  exceed  this 
per  diem.  When  the  water  lies  heavy  on  the  stomach, 
causing  unpleasant  sensation,  its  use  should  be  discon- 
tinued. 

The  use  of  the  waters  as  a  bath  have  been  productive 
of  the  most  salutary  effects.  Indeed  the  effects  of  bathing 
upon  the  system,  whether  in  health  or  in  certain  diseased 
states  is  so  apparent,  that  the  only  wonder  is  that  this 
agreeable,  cleanly  and  invigorating  restorative  is  not  more 
generally  used  than  is  the  case. 

As  to  the  effects  of  bathing  upon  the  human  system, 
the  cold  bath  is  generally  allowed  to  be  sedative,  yet  it 
refreshes.  The  tepid  and  warm  baths  have  not  only 
often  the  same  effects,  but  they  are  also  at  times  stimu- 
lating.  The  hot  bath  is  held  to  be  highly  stimulating. 
In  the  use  of  all  the  baths  much  depends  upon  the 
condition  and  state  of  health  of  the  bather  ;  and  if  in  ill 
health,  the  disease,  and  the  peculiar  stage  of  the  disease. 

The  use  of  the  mineral  waters  of  Saratoga  for  the 
purposes  of  the  bath,  is  a  subject  of  much  importance. 


ill 


i^ 


»  ,* 


I  I 


170 


TOITRIST  S    COMPANION 


Directions  for  Bathing. 


but  on  one  which   experience  seems  not  as   yet  to  have 

shed  any  great   degree  of  light.      Bathing  in  sulphurous 

water  has   long   been   advantageously   used   for   many 

cutaneous   diseases ;  and  the  warm  sulphurous  bath  has 

often  proved  most  happy  in  its  effect  in  relieving   many 

distressing  cases  of  rheumatism,  but  always  after  a  long 

and  persevering  course. 

Of  the  other  waters  of  Saratoga,  and  indeed   those  for 

which  the  place  is  most  celebrated,  they  have  been 
recommended  in  general  to  be  used  externally  in  the  bath, 
at  the  same  time  that  they  are  taken  internally.  It  is 
said  by  those  who  have  had  an  experimental  knowledge 
of  these  waters,  that  they  are  decidedly  superior  to  any 
others  for  this  purpose.  They  are  used  in  the  ordinary 
manner,  in  the  cold,  tepid,  warm  or  hot  bath. 

The  best  time  for  bathing  is  allowed  to  be  an  hour 
before  dinner,  or  after  the  digestion  of  the  morning  meal, 
next  to  this  is  the  morning,  or  short  time  before  break- 
fast.  If  after  the  bath  the  body  is  cold,  moderate  exer- 
cise should  be  used  to  raise  it  to  its  proper  temperature. 
Bathe  when  the  stomach  is  empty,  and  not  after  taking 
food  until  the  degestion  is  over.  After  leaving  the  water 
wipe  the  body  briskly,  and  immediately  dress  with  suffi. 
cient  clothing  to  preserve  the  healthful  temperature. 

Places  of  resort  near  Saratoga. — The  most  prom- 
inent places  of  resort  are  mentioned  below  : 

Barbyl's  fish  pond  two  miles  east.  It  produces  trout 
and  affords  the  disciples  of  old  Izaak,  fine  sport. 

The  Lake  House,  on  Saratoga  Lake,  4  miles  distant, 
is  celebrated  for  its  recherche  dinners.  During  the  pres- 
ent season,  (1845)  a   beautiful  steamboat  has  been  put 


to  have 
Dhurous 
many 
ath  has 
•  many 
r  a  long 

tiose  for 
5  been 
10  bath, 
,  It  is 
w  I  edge 
r  to  any 
)rdinary 

n  hour 
^  meal, 
break- 
te  exer- 
erature. 
■  taking 
3  water 
fh  suffi. 
•e. 

t  prom- 

s  trout 

distant, 
e  pres- 
en  put 


SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 


171 


Places  of  Resort. 


upon  this  lake,  and  makes  several  trips  per  day  around 
the  whole  circumference,  forming  a  beautiful  trip  of  about 
eighteen  miles. 

To  Glen's  Falls,  about  20  miles.  To  lake  George,  28 
miles.     To  these  places  stages  go  daily. 

Niskayuna,  the  shaker  settlement,  on  the  Mohawk 
river,  is  16  miles. 

Schuylersville,  where  Burgoynelaid  down  his  arms,  is 
12    miles. 

Route  from  the  Springs  to  Montreal. 

Should  the  traveller  prefer  to  continue  on  this  route  to 
Montreal,  he  can  proceed  by  the  way  of  Glenn's  Falls, 
18  miles  from  Saratoga  to  Lake  George,  9  miles,  and 
soon  to  Whitehall,  fro  m  whence  he  passes  by  various 
modes  of  conveyance  through  Burlington,  Plattsburgh 
and  numerous  small  villages  to  Montreal,  about  192 
miles  distant  from  Whitehall. 

Should  the  traveller  wish  to  proceed  from  the  Springs 
to  Niagara  Falls  direct,  he  will  take  the  Rail-Road  to 
Schenectady,  and  from  thence  proceed  by  rail-road  or 
Canal  Packet  Boat,  directly  through  to  B:iffalo,  or  he 
can  stop  at  Syracuse,  and  take  the  Canal  packet  boat  to 
Oswego,  and  from  thence  go  by  steamboat  across  Lake 
Ontario  to  Lewiston,  7  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Niagara  River,  from  whence  he  is  conveyed  by  Rail-Road 
to  Niagara  Falls. 


1 


-15  .f 


it' 


I: 


III 


•  "     P:?i 


172 


TOURIST^S    COMPANION 


ROUTES    AND    DISTANCES 


FROM 


NIAGARA    FALLS 


CHAPTER    XXM, 

The  traveller  abont  leaving  Niagara  Falls,  has  general- 
ly two  grand  tours  in  view,  the  one  through  the  Canadas, 
to  Montreal  and  Quebec,  and  from  thence  to  return  to 
the  sea-board,  and  the  other,  the  grand  tour  of  the 
Western  Lakes,  and  from  thence  to  return  on  the  same 
route  or  proceed  to  St.  Louis,  and  so  on  down  to  New 
Orleans.     We  shall  give  first  the  tour 

FROM  NIAGARA  FALLS  THROUGH  CANADA. 


In  leaving  the  Falls  the  traveller  has  two  routes  pres- 
ented, the  one  called  for  distinction,  the  American  route, 
proceeding  from  Lewiston,  across  Lake  Ontario  to  Oswe- 
go, from  thence  to  Sacketts  Harbor,  and  thence  down  the 
St.  Lawrence  river,  touching  at  Ogdensburgh,  and  other 
places  on  the  river  to  Coteaude  Lac  from  whence  a  stage 
conveys  passengers  to  the  Cascades,  16  miles  ;  thence  by 
steamboat  to  Lachine,  22  miles  through  Lake  St.  Louis. 
From  the  latter  place  passengers  are  conveyed  to  Mon- 
treal in  stages,  distance  of  only  9  miles.  On  the  enlarge- 
ment of  the  Laclune  Canal,  however,  passage  boats  of  the 
lagest  class,  will  be  able  to  pass  directly  to  Montreal,  as 


ROUTES    AND    DISTANCES. 


173 


Distances  between  Kingston  and  Montreal. 


do  now  a  small  class  of  steamboats,   in  descending  the 
St. '  Lawrence. 

By  the  other  route  the  traveller  takes  the  same  starting 
point  and  proceeds  by  steamboat  across  Lake  Ontario, 
stopping  at  Toronto,  Kingston  and  most  of  the  places 
of  note  on  the  Canada  side  of  the  Lake ;  from  King- 
ston down  the  River  St.  Lawrence  to  Brockville,  Pres- 
cott  (opposite  Ogdensburg)  and  so  on  the  same  route 
to  Montreal.  The  distance  from  Niagara  Falls  to  To- 
ronto is  about  52  miles  by  steamboat ;  from  thence  to 
Kingston,  180  miles;  below  is  the  table  of  distances 
from  Kingston  to  Montreal,  and  from  Montreal  to  Quebec. 

Table  of  distances  between  Kingston   &  Montreal. 


Place 
Places.  to  Place. 

Kingston, 0 

Gananoqui,      -    -    .    -     20 

Brockville, 40 

Maitland,  -  -  -  -  4 
Prescott  or  Ogdenshurgh,  8 
Galop  Rapids,     -     -    -       7 

Matilda,        9 

Williamsburgh,   -     -     -       7 
Dickinson's  Landing,      -  15 
Cornwall^  by  Canal,  pass- 
ing theLongSaultRapids,    12 

St.  Regis, 4 

Lake  St.  Francis,      -    .      2 

Lancaster, 15 

Coteau  du  Lac,    -    -    -    20 
Cascades,  by  stage,  pass- 
ing the  Cedar  Rapids,     16 
La  CAi?7c, passing  through 

Lake  Sj.  Louis,       -    -  24 
Montreal,  by  stage,     -      9 


From 
Kingston. 

0 
20 
60 
64 
72 
79 
88 
95 
110 

122 
126 
128 
143 
163 

179 

203 
212 


From 
Montreal. 

212 
192 
152 
148 
140 
133 
124 
117 
102 

90 
86 
84 
69 
49 

33 

9 
0 


ii  ^ 


M 


miii  ffW 


,  ,! 


-■(" 


l! 


ill-l! 


tl 


iil 


Hi 


! 


If 

'  mi 

ill 


174 


TOURIST'S    COMPANION 


Tour  of  the  Great  Western  Lakea. 


Table  of  distances  from  Montreal  to  Quebec,  by  Water. 

To  Verennes, 

William  Henry^ 

Lake  St.  Peter,       ... 

Sl  Francis^         -        .         - 

Three  Hirers,        ... 

St.  Anne,      -      -        -        - 

Richelieu  Rapids, 

Cape  Sante,  .         -        - 

Cape  Rouge, 

Quebec,        ...        - 


15 

Miles 

30  45 

(< 

-   8  53 

t( 

30  83 

(( 

-   7  90 

(( 

25  155 

(t 

-   20  135 

tt 

15  150 

<( 

-  22  178 

t( 

8  180 

t( 

TOUR  OF  THE 

GREAT  WESTERN  LAKES. 


Leaving  Niagara  Falls  the  traveller  proceeds  by  Rail- 
rsad  to  Buffalo,  from  whence  he  can  have  the  choice  of 
the  most  splendid  Steamboats  in  the  Union,  to  proceed 
through  the  Lakes  Erie,  St.  Clair,  Huron,  into  Lake  Mich- 
igan, traversing  about  the  entire  length  of  each  Lake,  to 
Chicago  at  the  Southern  extremity  of  Lake  Michigan. 
The  whole  distance  from  the  Falls  of  Niagara  to  Chicago, 
extends  over  one  thousand  miles  and  is  well  calculated  to 
give  the  traveller  a  good  conception  of  our  great  inland 
seas,  the  important  tov/ns  and  cities  bordering  upon 
them,  &c.,  &,c. 

If  to  this  tour  is  added  a  trip  to  the  Sault  de  Ste. 
Marie,  in  the  outlet  of  Lake  Superior,  and  connecting  it 
with  Lake  Huron  —  to  the  Manitoulin  Islands  in  the 
northern  quarter  of  Lake  Huron,  their  very  name  imply, 
ing   scenery  fitted  to  excite  sublime  emotions  and  sug- 


TOUR    OP    THE    LAKES. 


175 


Description  of  Lake  Eiie. 


gesting  the  strong  sentiments  of  religious  awe  which 
characterised  the  primitive  redman,  and  to  the  Islands  of 
Mackinac,  (pronounced  Mackinaw,)  and  its  sister  islands 
in  the  straits  of  the  same  name,  abounding  with  the 
finest  trout  and  white  fish,  and  connecting  the  lakes  of 
Michigan  and  Huron  —  if  these  be  added  to  the  tour, 
no  excursion  of  equal  extent  can  be  found,  that  presents 
a  greater  variety  of  picturesque  and  magnificent  scenery. 
As  this  excursion  begins  on  Lake  Erie,  we  begin  our 
guidance  with  a  brief  description  of  that  noble  and  most 
useful  body  of  water. 

Lake  Erie,  washing  the  shores  oi  four  of  these  Uni- 
jted  States —  New- York,  Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  and  Michi- 
Igan  —  and  spreading  between  them  and  a  large  segment 
!  of  the  British  province  of  Canada  West,  with  the  line  of 
1  division  as  settled  by  treaty,  running  through  the  middle 
I  of  the  lake,  is  240  miles  lon^f  by  40  to  60  miles  wide.  Its 
J  surface,  as  ascertained  by  the  engineers  of  the  Erie 
I  canal,  is  555  feet  above  the  Hudson  river  at  Albany,  and 
■334  feet  above  Lake  Ontario.  The  greatest  depth  of  the 
ilake  yet  observed,  is  270  feet.  This  is  comparatively 
■shallow;  and  the  relative  depths  of  the  great  series  of 
lakes  may  bo  illustrated  by  saying  that  the  surplus  waters 
poured  from  the  vast  basins  of  Superior,  Huron,  and 
I  Michigan,  flaw  across  the  plate  of  F^nQ  into  the  deep 
howl  of  Ontario. 

Lake  Erie  is  reputed  to  be  the  only  one  of  the  series  in 
which  any  current  is  perceptible.  The  ftict,  if  it  is  one, 
is  usually  ascribed  to  its  shallowness;  but  the  vast  volume 
of  its  outlet —  the  Niagara  river — with  its  strong  current, 
is  a  much  more  favorable  cause  than  the  small  depths  of 


I 


t 


Vi  i 


11, 


Itii; 


I  m 


'M 


iifli 


176 


tourist's  companion 


Towns  and  Villages  on  Lake  Erie. 


its  water,  which  may  be  far  more  appropriately  adduced 
as  the  reason  why  the  navigation  is  obstructed  by  icfi 
much  more  than  either  of  the  other  great  lakes.  The 
New- York  shore  of  Lake  Erie  extends  about  60  miles 
in  the  course  of  which  the  lake  receives  a  number  of 
streams,  the  most  considerable  of  which  are  the  Buffalo 
and  Cattaraugus  creeks ;  and  present  several  harbors, 
the  most  important  of  which  at  present,  are  Buffalo  creek 
and  Dunkirk. 

As  connected  with  trade  and  navigation,  this  lake  is 
far  the  most  important  of  all  the  great  chain,  not  only 
because  it  is  bordered  by  older  settlements  than  any  of 
them  except  Ontario,  but  still  more  because,  from  its 
position,  it  concentrates  the  trade  of  the  vast  west. 

When  we  consider  the  extent  not  only  of  this  lake,  but 
of  Huron,  nearly  250  miles  long,  of  Michigan,  300  miles 
long,  of  Superior,  the  largest  body  of  fresh  water  on  the  } 
globe,  we  may  quote  with  emphasis,  the  words  of  an  \ 
English  writer  :  "How  little  are  they  aware,  in   Europe,] 
of  the  extent  of  commerce  upon  these  island  seas,  whose  j 
coasts  are  now  lined  with  flourishing    towns  and  cities  ; 
whose  waters  are   ploughed  with  magnificent  steamboats, : 
and   hundreds   of   vessels   crowded  with   merchandise.  ; 
Even  the  Americans  themselves  are  not   fully  aware  of  I 
the  rising  importance  of  these  lakes,   as  connected  with  i 
the  west."  i 

Dunkirk,  45  miles  from  Buffalo.  Here  it  is  intended 
to  terminate  the  New-York  and  Erie  Railroad. 

Barcelona,  ,52  miles  southwest  from  Buffalo,  is  the 
westernmost  village  in  the  state  of  New. York.  It  is  a 
port  of  entry   and   contains  about  400  inhabitants.     A 


'■• 


GREAT    WESTERN   LAKES. 


179 


Porta  OD  Lake  Erie. 


Steamboat  runs  from  Buffalo  to  this  place,  stopping  at  the 
intermediate  ports.  Here,  is  a  lighthouse,  lighted  with 
inflammable  gas,  which  escapes  from  the  bed  of  the  creek, 
about  a  mile  distant,  and  is  carried  in  pipes  to  the 
shore. 

Erie,  Pa.,  90  miles  from  Buffalo,  is  beautifully  situated 
on  Presque  Isle  bay,  affording  one  of  the  best  harbors  on 
the  lake.  It  contains  about  4,000  inhabitants;  it  is 
a  place  of  much  trade  and  growing  importance, 

CoNNEAUT,  28  miles  further  west,  in  the  northeast 
corner  of  Ohio,  stands  on  a  creek  of  the  same  name,  at 
its  entrance  into  the  lake. 

Ashtabula,  Ohio,  13  miles  from  Conneaut,  stands  on  a 
stream  of  the  same  name,  near  its  entrance  into  the  lake . 

Fairport,  Ohio,  stands  on  the  east  side  of  Grand  river, 
161  miles  from  Buffalo.  Its  harbor  for  lake  vessels  is 
good,  and  is  connected  with  Painesville  by  a  rail-road  of 
3  miles  long. 

The  CiTy  of  Cleveland,  the  emporium  of  northern 
Ohio,  is  191  miles  from  Buffalo,  211  from  Detroit,  and 
916  from  Chicago.  It  is  a  port  of  entry,  and  next  to 
Cincinnati,  is  the  most  important  town  in  the  state.  It 
stands  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cuyahoga  river,  and  the 
northern  termination  of  the  Ohio  canal,  307  miles  from 
Portsmouth,  on  the  Ohio  river.  Packet  boats  for  passen- 
gers run  daily  on  this  canal,  reaching  Portsmouth  in 
about  three  and  a  half  days;  where  steamboats  are  taken 
for  Cincinnati,  a  further  distance  of  113  miles.  It  has 
also  a  connection  with  Pittsburg,  by  means  of  the  Ohio 

and  Pennsylvania  canals. 
K 


M 


fl 


11 


in 


,J ,  I 


180 


TOURIST  S    COMPANION 


PoTtH  on  Lake  Erie. 


The  population  in  1840,  was  6,071,  and  is  rapidly 
increasing." 

Black  River,  28  miles  from  Cleveland. 

Vermilion,  10  miles  further,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  a 
river  of  the  same  name. 

Huron,  20  miles  further,  also  stands  at  the  mouth  of  a 
river  of  the  same  name,  with  a  good  harbor. 

Sandusky,  10  miles  further,  and  259  miles  from  Buffalo, 
is  a  port  of  entry,  and  the  capital  of  Erie  county,  Ohio. 
It  stands  on  the  shore  of  Sandusky  bay,  fronting  the  lake. 
The  entire  town  is  based  on  a  quarry  of  the  finest  build- 
ing  stone,  which  has  beenextensively  used  in  its  edifices. 

It  contains  about  1,500  inhabitants. 

Toledo,  50  miles  from  Sandu&ky,  and  309  miles  from 
BufTalu,  stands  on  the  west  bank  of  Maumee  river,  near 
its  entrance  into  Maumee  bay,  at  the  south  end  of  Lake 
Erie.     It  contains  a  population  of  about  1,500, 

Steamboats  run  direct  from  BufTalo  to  this  place,  and 
Perrysburg,  at  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation  on  the 
Maumee  river,  18  miles  from  the  light-house  on  the  lake 
shore. 

**  A  railroad  is  finished  from  Toledo  to  Adrian,  33 
miles  ;  and  the  Wabash  and  Erie  canal  is  now  completed 
from  Lake  Erie  to  La  Fayette,  a  point  on  the  Wabash, 
to  which  steamboats  ascend  from  the  Ohio  river.  As 
boats  cannot,  however,  ascend  to  Ln  Fayette,  except  in 
comparatively  high  water,  the  canal  is  to  be  continued 
down  the  Wabash  81  miles  to  Terre  Haute,  where  the 
National  road  crosses  the  river.  Much  is  already  done 
on  the  canal  south  of  La  Fayette. 


l\ 


3   rapidly 

outh  of  a 
outh  of  a 

n  Buffalo, 
ity,  Ohio, 
the  lake, 
est  build- 
s  edifice?. 

nilcs  from 
iver,  near 
I  of  Lake 

lace,  and 
on  on  the 
the   lake 

drian,  33 
ompleted 
Wabash, 
iver.  As 
pxcept  in 
continued 
vhere  the 
ady  done 


GREAT    WESTERN    LAKES. 


181 


Route  to  St.  Louis  —  Detroit  City 


■l' 


*' A  traveller  wishing  to  go  from  Buffalo  to  St.  Louis, 
can  do  so  by  the  above  route  in  six  days,  after  the  lake 
and  canal  shall  be  in  a  navisjabie  condition.  It  will  re- 
quire 39  hours  to  reach  Toledo,  83  hours  to  Tcrre  Haute, 
and  33  hours  by  stage  from  thence  to  St.  Louis  across 
the  beau^'''  prairies  of  Southern  Illinois,  making  in  all 
143  hours,  or  six  days.  We  trust  that  the  packet  boat 
companies  on  the  Wabash  and  Erie  canal  will  put  down 
the  fare,  as  the  saying  is,  *  to  suit  the  times,'  and  all  rea- 
sonable effjrts  will  be  made  to  induce  a  large  share  of  the 
travel  from  Missouri,  and  the  southern  country,  to  New- 
York  and  Boston,  to  take  this  route." 

Monroe,  Michigan,  28  miles  northwest  of  Toledo, 
stands  on  the  River  Raisin,  2^  miles  from  its  mouth.  A 
canal  103  feet  wide,  and  12  feet  deep,  extends  from  the 
city  to  the  lake,  through  which  steamboats  and  other 
vessels  continually  ply.  Mjnroe  contains  a  population 
of  about  2,000. 

Amherstburgh,  Can.  West,  stands  at  the   mouth  of 
the  Detroit  river,  about  half  way    between    Monroe  and 
Detroit.     It  was  known  during  the  last  war  by  the  name 
of  Maiden. 

The  City  of  Detroit,  on  Detroit  river,  372  miles 
from  Buffalo,  and  675  miles  from  Chicago,  by  steamboat 
route,  is  unsurpassed  for  beauiy  and  advantages  of  local- 
ity, standing  30  feet  above  the  water,  with  a  fine  view  of 
the  surrounding  country.  It  is  admirably  situated  for 
trade,  and  is  fast  rising  in  commercial  importance.  The 
navigation  of  the  river  and  lake  is  open  6  or  8  months  in 
the  year,  during  which  time  steamboats  and  other  vessels 


*:■ 


?! 


ii'-'j 


wmmmt 


mmm 


i: 


T  1 


ill 


li! 


! 


182 


TOURIST'S  COMPANION 


Lake  St.  Clair—  Fort  Gratiot. 


are  continually  ariving  and  departing  for  the  different 
ports  on  lake  Erie,  Huron,  and  Michigan. 

Detroit  was  first  settled  by  the  French  in  1683  ;  and 
now  contains  a  population  of  about  10,000  inhabitants;  a 
state  house  of  brick,  this  being  the  capital  of  the  state  of 
Michigan  ;  a  city  hall ;  10  churches  ;  4  banking  houses  ; 
a  United  States  land  office ;  a  theatre  and  museum ;  3 
markets;  a  state  penitentiary  ;  a  government  magazine, 
and  a  mechanic's  hall ;  various  charitable  and  other  in. 
stitutions,  besides  12  public  schools. 

The  Central  Rail  Road  of  Michigan,  is  now  finished 
for  80  miles ;  and  when  completed  will  extend  to  St. 
Joseph,  on  lake  Michigan,  194  miles  from  Detroit.  There 
is  now  a  line  of  public  conveyances  on  this  route  to  Chi- 
cago, running  through  in  about  40  hours  ;  80  miles  being 
by  railroad  cars,  120  by  stage  ;  and  69  by  steamboat, 
across  lake  Michigan.  The  Detroit  and  Pontiac  Rail, 
road  is  25  miles  long. 

Windsor,  on.the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  in  Canada, 
is  the  western  termination  of  the  stage  route  extending 
to  Hamilton  and  Queenston.  This  is  a  favorite  route 
while  navigation  is  closed. 

Lake  St.  Clair,  30  miles  long  and  24  wide,  com- 
mences 7  miles  above  Detroit ;  it  is  90  miles  in  circum- 
fereiice  and  20  feet  deep.  Its  banks  are  alluvial,  and 
elevated  and  20  feet  above  the  water.  Clinton  river  enters 
from  Michigan,  and  the  Thames  and  other  streams  from 
the  Canada  side.  From  thence  the  river  St.  Clair,  40 
miles  long,  extends  northerly  to. 

Fort  Gratiot,  70  miles  from  Detroit,  and  at  the  foot 
of  Lake   Huron,  on  the  west  side  of  St.  Clair  river.    It 


different 

B3;  and 

itants;  a 
I  state  of 
houses ; 
seum ;  3 
agazine, 
other  in. 

finished 
id  to  St. 
t.  There 
5  to  Chi- 
les being 
3amboat, 
»c  Bail. 

Canada, 
xtending 
ite  route 

le,  com- 
1  circum- 
/ial,  and 
rer  enters 
ims  from 
Clair,  40 

t  the  foot 
iriver.    It 


GREAT    WESTERN    LAKES. 


183 


Lake  Huron  —  Thunder  Bay  —  Mackinac. 


i  was  built  in  1814,  and  consists  of  a  stockade,  enclosing  a 
I  magazine,  barracks,  and  other  accommodations  for  a 
i  garrison  of  one  battalion. 

I     Lake   Huron,  through  which  runs  the  boundary  be- 
itween  the  United  States  and  Canada,  is  about  218  miles 
jtong  and  180  broad,  though   its  irregular  form  renders  it 
I  difficult  to  determine  this  with  much   precision.     It  re- 
1  ceives  the  waters  of  Lake    Superior  through  the  straits  of 
I  St.  Mary,  and  of  Lake   Michigan,  through  the  straits  of 
jMichilimackinac,  and  discharges  its  over  surplus   into 
Lake  Erie,  through  the  St.  Clair  and  Detroit  rivers.    On 
the  north  part  of  this  are  the  Manitoulin  Islands,  the  larg- 
est of  which  is  80  miles  long. 

I  Point  aux  Barques,  130  miles  from  Detroit,  is  at  the 
south  entrance  of  Saginaw  bay. 

I  Thunder  Bay,  75  miles  further,  contains  a  great 
number  of  Islands,  on  one  of  which  is  a  light.house.  It 
is  sometimes  called  Thousand  Island  Bay. 

Presque  Isle,  30  miles,  is  situated  on  the  northeast 
'  point  of  the   peninsula  of  Michigan,  where  the    lake  in- 
clines towards  the  west. 

Mackinac,  295  miles  from  Detroit,  and  380  from 
Chicago,  is  delightfully  situated  on  the  southeast  extremi- 
ty  of  an  island  of  the  same  name  in  the  straits  of  Mich, 
ilimackinac.  It  contains  a  court-house  and  jail,  2  church- 
es, 10  stores  and  several  public  houses.  Fort  Mackinac 
stands  on  a  rocky  eminence,  150  feet  immediately  above 
the  village,  which,  together  with  the  harbor,  it  commands. 
This  is  a  delightful  residence  during  the  warm  weather, 
the  air  being  freshened  and  cooled  by  the  water  and  by 
gentle  winds,  rendering  the  place  a  favorite  resort  for 


rr  'WfY^ 


'  ■  1 


U  J 


184 


TOURIST'S    COMPANION 


Manitou  Islands  —  Lake  Michigan —  Mitwaiikie. 


invalids.     Here  also  is  a  great  fishery ;  over  5,3000  bar 

I 

rels  of  trout  and  white  fish  being  annually  exported  ;  and 
it  is  the  mart  of  an  extensive  fur  trade,  being  for  ages  a 
favorite  resort  of  Indians.  A  steamboat  runs  from 
Mackinac  to  Green  Bay,  at  the  head  of  which,  in  Wis- 
consin, is  an  important  settlement.  Afterleaving  Mackin- 
ac, and  entering  Like  Michigan,  several  islands  are 
passed  in  succession,  the  largest  of  which  is  Beaver 
Island. 

The  Manitou  Islands,  80  miles  from  Mackinac,  lie 
on  the  cast  side  of  Lake  Michigan,  opposite  the  mouth  of 
Greep  Bay  a  large  and  important  body  of  water. 

Lake  MicHiGAff,   the  la-gest  lake  which  lies,  wholly  in  j 

I  the  United  Sates,  is  about  330  miles  long  and  60  broad.  I 

I  Its  waters  are  deep,  and  it  affords  excellent  fish,  which  1 

are  annually  taken  in  large  quantities  and   constitute   an! 

'important  item  in  the  trade  of  that  region.  i 

I  '  I 

I     MiLWAUKFE,  in  Wisconsin,  300  miles  from  Mackinac;  ! 

i  ; 

is  on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of  I 
the  Milwaukie  river.  It  contains  a  court-house  and  jail,  i 
a  United  States  land  office,  3  churches,  and  about  3,0001 
inhabitants.     Steamboats  and  sail  vessels   ply   between! 

jthis  place  and    Buffalo,  and    from  its  rich  and    extensive' 
back  country,  it  is  likely  to  grow  rapidly  and   become  a! 

I  place  of  much  importance. 

I     Racine,  20  miles  south  of  Milwaukie,  and  at  the  mouth 

I  of  Root  river,  contains  a  court.house  and  jail,  10  or  12 

I  stores  and  about  500  inhabitants. 

SouTHroRT,  12  miles  further,  on  the  west  side  of 
the  lake,  contains  about  500  inhabitants  and  several 
stores. 


I 


Tagaii-atiiii  nnm  ■ . 


-  I' 


00  bar- 
id  ;  and 
•  ages  a 
g  from 
in  Wi3- 
Vlackin- 
ids  are 
Beaver 

lac,    lie 
iiouth  of 

rholly  in  | 
0  broad, ! 
I,  which  I 

itute   an ; 

I 

I 
I 

ickinac;  j 
noulh  of  I 
md  jail,; 
lit  3,000 1 
between  j 
xtensive  ' 
ecome  a  \ 

le  mouth 
10  or  12 

side   of 
several 


GREAT  WESTERN  LAKES. 


185 


City  of  Chicago  —  Michigan   City. 


The  CiTV  OF  CnrcAGO,  in  Illinois,  48  miles  still  further 
souUi,  is  beautifully  situated  on  level  ground,  on  both 
sides  of  the  river  Chicago.  It  extends  along  the  lake 
shore  for  a  mile.  An  artificial  harbor  has  been  formed 
by  the  constructions  of  piers  on  each  side  of  the  entrance 
of  the  river,  for  some  distance  into  the  lake.  This  is  a 
rapidly  growing  and  important  place,  with  numerous 
steamboats  and  other  vessels  employed  in  active  and 
profitable  trade  with  Buffalo,  and  the  various  intermedi- 
ate ports  on  the  Upper  Lakes.  It  contains  5  or  6,000 
inhabitants;  the  public  building  for  Cook  county;  a 
United  S-atcs  land  office  ;  8  churches,  and  several  well 
kept  public  houses.  No  place  in  the  Union  has  probably 
exceeded  Chicago  in  its  rapid  growth  and  the  increase  of 
its  trade.  It  is  the  central  mart  of  the  rich  agricultural 
section  of  northern  Illinois,  and  a  part  of  Wisconsin. 
The  Michigan  and  Illinois  Canal^  now  constructing 
from  this  place  to  the  navigable  waters  of  the  lilinois 
river,  will  add  much  to  its  importance  and  give  a  new 
and  powerful  impulse  to  its  growth. 

Michigan  City,  Indiana,  standing  at  the  head  of  Lake 
^Michigan,  and  at  the  mouth  of  Trail  Creek,  was  laid  out 
in  1835.  It  now  contains  about  800  inhabitants,  and  is 
no  doubt  destined  to  become  a  place  of  very  considerable 
importance. 

St.  Joseph,  Michigan,  opposite  Chicago,  stands  at  the 
mouth  of  the  St.  Joseph  river,  and  is  the  proposed  termi- 
nation  of  the  Central  Railroad^  running  through  Michi- 
gan from  Detroit,  a  distance  of  about  200  miles.  A  line 
of  steamboats,  stages,  and  railroad  cars,  now  run  over 
this  route,  from  Chicago  to  Detroit,  afTo.ding  a  choice  of 


I 


m 


■iBWlU!lLJ[=-lJ_J. 


^i 


186 


tourist's  companion 


Green  Bay  —  Sauit  de  St.  Marie. 


conveyances,  and  great  facilities  for  travel  and  corres- 
pondence. 

Green  Bay  is  in  the  Territory  of  Wisconsin.  Connec- 
ting with  Lake  Michigan  at  the  northwestern  bend  of  the 
latter,  by  a  wide  opening,  or  straits,  the  Bay  stretches 
southward  about  100  miles,  with  a  breadth  varying  from 
15  to  30  miles,  and  lying  nearly  parallel  with  the  north 
segment  of  the  lake.  Its  broad  entrance,  for  some  30 
miles,  is  traversed  by  a  succession  of  islands,  called,  from 
their  position.  Traverse  Islands.  The  Bay  is  navigable 
by  vessels  of  200  tons  burden,  to  its  southern  extremity, 
or  head,  where  it  receives  the  waters  of  Fox  river,  at  the 
mouth  of  which  is  a  flourishing  town,  with  a  population 
of  nearly  2,000,  surrounded  by  a  fertile  and  beautiful 
j  region,  and  where  the  United  States  have  a  land  Office. 
I  The  head  waters  of  the  Fox  river  interlock  with  those  of 
j  the  Wisconsin,  a  very  short  distance  apart,  and  in  very 
I  high  freshets  boats  have  often  passed  from  one  to  the 
:  other.  A  short  canal  would  make  the  connection  perfect 
at  all  times,  and  would  thus  give  an  unbroken  navigation 
from  the  great  lakes  through  Green  Bay,  Fox  river  and 
the  Wisconsin,  to  the  Misssissippi  at  Prairie  du  Chien, 
300  miles  below  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and  600  miles 
above  St.  Louis.  Green  Bay  contains  several  islands 
about  midway  its  length,  and  at  its  northwestern  curve  it 
receives  the  Menominee  river,  which  flows  in  from  the 
northwest,  and  forms  the  boundary  between  the  Wiscon- 
sin Territory  and  that  portion  of  Michigan  which  lies 
between  it  and  Lake  Superior. 

Sault  de  St.  Marie,  or  St.  Mary's  Falls,  is  the  name 
of  the  settlement  on  the  American  shore  of  the  St.  Mary's 


n 


:. 


GREAT    WESTERN    LAKES. 


187 


Village  of  St.  Mary  — Fort  Brady. 


River,  about  15  miles  below  Lake  Superior,  at  the 
rapids,  which  are  three-fourths  of  a  mile  long,  with 
a  descent  of  some  23  feet.  The  entire  fall  of  the 
river,  which  is  60  miles  long,  from  Lake  Superior 
to  its  entrance  into  Lake  Huron,  is  about  50  feet.  It  is 
contemplated  to  cut  a  ship  canal  round  the  falls,  or  sault. 
the  river  being  navigable  in  all  the  rest  of  its  course. 
Such  a  canal,  by  enabling  steamers  and  all  other  lake 
vessels  to  pass  into  Lake  Superior,  and  thus  opening  the 
navigation  of  that  great  island  sea,  would  serve  most 
efficiently  to  promote  the  settlement  of  Upper  Michigan, 
and  the  regions  bordering  on  Lake  Superior,  would 
enhance  the  value  of  the  national  domains,  particularly 
of  the  copper  and  lead  districts,  and  would  be  the  pioneer 
of  incalcuable  benefits  to  the  whole  Union,  as  well  as  to 
a  vast  but  secluded  country,  not  yet  accommodated  with 
the  means  of  constant  and  permanent  intercourse  and 
traffic  with  the  great  lake  states,  and  the  great  markets  of 
the  sea.board. 

The  settlement,  or  village  of  St.  Mary,  is  on  the  site 
of  an  old  French  fort,  and  is  an  elevated  and  pleasant 
position.  It  contains  a  court-house,  3  churches,  a  trading 
house  of  the  American  Fur  Company  and  several  other 
stores.  A  post  belonging  to  the  United  States,  called 
Fort  Brady,  is  also  established  here,  and  has  a  garrison 
of  United  States  troops.  The  population,  made  up  of 
Americans, Frenchmen,  Indians  and  half-breeds,  amounts 
usually  to  about  1,000,  and  occasionally  a  much  greater 
number,  when  the  Indians  and  other  trappers  and  hun- 
ters come  in  with  their  peltry,  for  the  purposes  of  trade, 
and  to  receive  their  annuities. 


t 

.! 


m 


iii: 


■t'S 


.it" 

is 


I;   i 


I   «, 


«l 


sTir- 


I  / 


188 


tourist's  companion 


Lake  Supeiior —  I'ictuied  Rocks. 


Lake  Superior,  supposed  to  be  the  largest  body  of 
fresh  water  in  the  world,  is  about  380  miles  long  and  130 
wide,  and  about  1,400  miles  in  circumference.  It  is  sur- 
rounded mostly  by  a  rocky  and  uneven  coast,  and  con- 
tains many  considerable  islands,  one  of  the  largest  of 
which,  Isle  Royal,  is  about  100  miles  long  and  40  miles 
broad.  Its  waters  abound  with  fi&h,  particularly  trout, 
sturgeon,  and  white-fish,  which  are  caught  at  all  seasons 
and  in  large  quantities.  Of  these  the  trout,  weighing 
from  12  to  50  pounds,  and  the  white  fish,  weighing  often 
over  20  pounds,  are  perhaps  the  most  important.  The 
storms  on  this  lake  are  almost  equal  to  those  on  the 
Atlantic  —  its  waves  run  as  high,  and  its  navigation  is 
probably  more  dangerous.  Its  surface  is  elevated  625 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  its  mean  deplh  is  900 
feet.  Its  waters  are  remarkably  clear  and  transparent. 
It  receives  more  than  thirty  rivers,  and  discharges  its 
surplus  into  lake  Huron,  by  the  straits,  or  river  of  St. 
Mary.  The  boundary  lines  between  the  United  States 
and  the  British  Possessions  pass  through  the  middle  of 
this,  as  of  the  other  great  lakes,  from  its  outlet,  the  St. 
Mary,  most  of  the  distance,  but  towards  the  westerly 
segment  of  the  Isle  Royal,  giving  that  island  to  the 
United  States,  and  then  inclining  southwesterly  to  the 
the  mouth  of  Pigeon  river. 

The  Pictured  Rocks^  on  its  south  shore,  toward  the 
east  end  of  the  lake,  are  a  great  curiosity,  forming  an 
immense  perpendicular  wall  300  feet  high  and  extending 
about  12  miles,  with  frequent  and  vast  caverns  along 
their  base,  into  which  waters  roll,  especially  in  storms, 
with  a   tremendous  roar.     At  one  place  a  considerable 


--.  I 


■PHH 


■Hi 


CHICAGO   TO    NEW-ORLEANS. 


189 


Route  to  St.  Louis  and  N.  Orleans. 


Stream  is  thrown  from  them  into  the  lake,  by  a  single 
burst,  from  the  height  of  70  feet,  and  boats  can  pass  be- 
tween it  and  the  rocks;  at  another  place  four  enormous 
piers  of  rocks  support  a  vast  stratum,  or  entablature  of 
stone,  covered  with  soil,  on  which  stand  trees  of  spruce 
and  pine,  some  of  which  are  50  or  60  feet  high.  This  is 
called  the  Doric  Rock,  or  Arch,  and  it  appears  like  an 
achievement  of  Art,  though  it  is  the  work  of  Nature. 


ROUTE  FROxM  CHICAGO 

TO 

ST.  LOUIS  AND  N  EW-O  RLEANS. 


We  have  before  mentioned  a  new  route  to  St.  Louis, 
by  taking  the  Wabash  Canal  to  Terre  Haute,  and  by 
stage  to  the  Mississippi  River.  There  are  three  other 
routes  one  via.  Canal  from  Erie  Pa.  to  Pittsburgh,  and 
so  down  the  Ohio  river;  another  by  the  Ohio  canal  at 
Cleveland  to  Portsmouth.  In  consequence  of  the  low 
state  of  the  Ohio  river,  during  the  summer  months,  travel- 
lers wishing  to  reach  either  New  Orleans  or  any  of  the 
points  on  the  Mississippi  or  Illinois  may  take  the  Lake 
route,  previously  described,  and  at  Chicago,  either  take 
the  stage  route  to  Galena,  on  the  upper  Mississippi  river, 
aud  thence  down  to  St.  Louis ;  or  another  route  still 
presents,  (which  is  the  most  travelled)  by  stage,  from 
Chicago  to   Juliet    40  miles,  Juliet  to  Ottawa   45  miles, 


4 


I 


\:T 


;i  ''4 


190 


TOURIST  S    COMPANION 


Route  to  St.  Louis  and  N.  Orleans. 


Ottawa  to  Peru  16  miles,  Peru  to  Peoria  69  miles,  here 

is  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation  at  present,  and  boats 

ply  between  this   place  and   St.  Louis  :  from  Peoria  to 

Bardstown,   90  miles,   Bardstown   to  Alton,  118  miles, 

Alton  to  Sf.  Louis  22,  making  400   miles  by   stage   and 

I  steamboat  to  St.  Louis,  and  from  thence  to  New-Orleans, 

1287  miles  further;  so  that  a  traveller   can  now  make  a 

tour  as  follows : 

From  New- York  to  Buffalo,  via  Niagara  Falls, 

about  500  miles,  in  38  hours. 
From  Buffalo  to  Chicago,        »»     1100    •*         105 
From  Chicago  to  St.  Louis,  400     "  56 

From  Sr.  Louis  to  New-Orleans  1287     "  120 


ti 


3287  miles      409  hours. 


In  the  pages  which  follow,  will  be  found  the  distances 
on  most  of  the  important  routes  not  otherwise  laid  down 
iin  this  work. 


] 


ices  I 
)wn 


TABLES    OF    DISTANCES. 


191 


From  the  mouih  of  the  Mis- 
souri to  New 'Orleans, 


St.  Louis,  16^ 

Cahokia,  3| 

Herculapeum,       35| 
Fort  Chartres,       19 
St.  Genevieve        4 
Kaskaskidf  13 

Bainbridge,  58 

Cape  Girardeau,      9^ 
Month  of  Ohio,    41 
Columbia,  22 

Mills's  Point,  18 
New  Madrid,  44 
Fulton  or  Hick,  103 
Randolph,  10 

Memphis,  67 

Helena,  93 

White  River  orMLSO 
Arkansas  River,  48 
P.C.orVillemont,65 
Old  R.  or  L.  L.  20 
G.  LakeorL.W.  20 
Princeton,  3^ 

N.Mexico  or  L.P.3li 

Vicksburg,  42i 

Warrenton,  26 

Palmyra  or  G.  G.  30 

Bruinsburgh.         10 

Rodney,  10 

Natchez,  40 

E.  Cliffs  or  H.L.  21     1004^ 

Fort  Adams,  33^  1038 

Red  River,  20 

St.  Francisville  or  47 

Raton  Rouge,       36 

Donaldsonville,     57 

New  Orleans,       82.^ 

Woodville,  45 

Fort  St.Phillippe,  22     1347^ 

Gulf  of  Mexico,  57    1404^ 


16i 

20 

55i 

74i 

78i 

9U 

I49i 

159 

200 

222 

240 

284 

387 

397 

464 

557 
637 

685 
750 

770 

790 

793i 

825 

867i 

893i 

923i 

933i 

943.i 

983^ 


1058 

1105 

1141 

1198 

1280i 

1325i| 


Rail-road  Boute  from  Alba- 
ny to  Boston. 
Kinderhook, 
Chatham  FourCorn's,  7 


State  Line, 
Richmond, 

PiTTSFIELD,  Mass. 

Dalton, 

Hinsdale, 

Washington, 

Becket, 

Chester  Factory, 

Chester  Village, 

Westfield, 

Springfield, 

Palmer, 

Warren, 

South  Brookfield, 

Spencer, 

Charlton, 

Worcester, 

Framingham, 

Boston, 


15 
3 

8 

5 

3 

5 

3 

9 

7 

11 

10 

15 

10 

6 

5 

5 

13 
23 
21 


16 

23 

38 

41 

49 

54 

57 

62 

65 

74 

81 

92 

102 

117 

127 

133 

138 

143 

156 

179 

200 


Stage  and  Rail-road  Route 
from  Rochester  to  Niaga- 
ra FallSf  via  Lockport. 

Greece,  by  stage,  6 

Parma,  5  11 

Clarkson,  ^  18 

Sandy  Creek,  7  25 

Gaines,  9  34 

Oak  Orchard,  7  41 

Ridgeway,  3  44  i 

Johnson's  Creek,  7  51 

Hartland,  3  54 

New  Fane,  6  60 

LocKPORT,  4  64 

Pekin,  by  railroad,  12  72 

Niagara  Falls,  do.  8  80 


^  i     ■*:^* 


:U 


111 


I  !i 


liiii 


m 


192                tourist's  companion. 

On  the  Hudson  River,  from  Albany, 

3  145 

New-  York  to  Albany. 

Troy, 

6  151 

New- York, 

0      0 

V- ^^^ 

Bull's  Ferry,  N.  J. 

6      6 

NOTE.— Flares  in  Italic, 
Stetimboat  landings. 

are  the  usual 

Manhatlanville, 

2      8 

Fort  Lee,  N.  J. 

2    10 

Rail-road  Route  from  Alba- 

Spuyten Duval  cr. 

3    13 

ny  to  Buffalo. 

Yonkers, 

4    17 

Schenectady, 

15 

Hastings, 

3    20 

Amsterdam, 

15    30 

Dobb's  Ferry, 

2    22 

Fonda, 

11    41 

Piermont, 

2    24 

Palatine  Bridge, 

12    53 

Tarry  town. 

3    27 

St.  Johnsville, 

9    62 

Sing  Sing, 

6    33 

Litile  Falls, 

10    72 

Teller's  Point, 

2    35 

Elerkimer, 

7    79 

Grassy  Point, 

4    39 

Utica, 

14    93 

Verplanck's  Point, 

2    41 

Whitesboro, 

3    96 

CaldwilVs  Landing, 

3    44 

Oriskany, 

4  100 

West  Pointy 

8    52 

Rome, 

7  107 

Coldspring, 

2    54 

Oneida  Depot, 

13  120 

Cornwall, 

3    57 

Cnnastota, 

6  126 

New.Windsor, 

2    59 

C  bitten  a  ngo. 

6  132 

Newhurgh, 

2    61 

Syracuse, 

14  146 

New-Hamburgh , 

6    67 

Camillus, 

8  154 

Milton, 

3    70 

Elbridge, 

8  162 

Foughkeepsie, 

4    74 

Auburn, 

10  1.72 

Hyde  Park, 

6    80 

Cayuga  Bric'ge, 

10  182 

Pelham, 

4    84 

Seneca  Falls, 

5  187 

Ekinebeck, 

6    90 

Waterloo, 

4  191 

Redhook,  Lower, 

7    97 

Geneva, 

8  199 

RedJiook,  Upper, 

3  100 

Vienna, 

9  208 

Saugerlies, 

1  101 

Canandaigua, 

14  222 

Bristol  or  Maiden 

1  102 

Pittsford, 

21  243 

Catskill, 

9  111 

Rochester, 

8  251 

Hudson, 

5  116 

Churchville, 

14  265 

Coxsackie, 

8  124 

Batavia, 

18  283 

Kinderhook  Land, 

3  127 

Alexander, 

8  291 

New-Baltimore, 

4  131 

Attica, 

3  294 

Coeyman'*s, 

2  l33.Diirien, 

6  300 

Schodack  Landin"^, 

2  135  Alden, 

5  305 

CastlcloT., 

2  137|Lanca8ter, 

10  315 

i  Overslaugh, 

i 

5  142|  Buffalo, 

10  325 

TABLES    OP    DISTANCES. 


193 


15 
30 
41 
53 
62 

n 

79 
93 
96 

100 

107 

120 

126 

1321 

146 

154 

162 

172 

1821 

187 

191 

199 

208 

222 

243 

251 

265 

283 

291 

294 

300 

305 

315 

325! 


Rail-road  Route   from    the  Rail'road  Roulc  from  NeW' 


30 

27 
28 
26 
36 
34 


1 
31 


city  of  Nsiv-  York  to  the 
city  of  IVashington, 

Jersey  City, 

New. Brunswick, 

Trentox, 

Philadelphia, 

Wilmini^ton,  Del. 

Havre  de  Grace, 

Baltimore, 

WaSHIKGTOiV, 


York  10  Philadelphia^  via 
N.  Brunswick  and  Tren- 
ton. 
Jersey  City, 
58  Newark, 
86Elizabethtown, 
112  Rah  way, 
148|Metuchin, 
182  New-Brunswick 
38  220,Kingston, 
Princeton, 
Trenton, 
Morrisviile,  Pa. 
Bristol, 
Andalusia, 


S.  B.  and  R.  R.  Route  from 
New -York  to  Philadel- 
phia^ via  South  Amhoy 
and  B'jrdentown. 

Elizabethtown.byS.B.       12  Depot, 

Perth  Arnboy,        '*     13  25  Philadelphia, 

South  Aniboy,        "       1  26 

Spottswood,  by  R.  R.  10  36 

Hightstown, 


t( 


BORDENTOWN, 

Bristol,  Pa.  by 

Burlington, 

Philadelphia, 


It 


II  47 
14  61 


S.  B. 


t( 


ii 


8 
1 

18 


69 
70 

88 


1 

8  9 

5  14 

5  19 

8  27 

4  31 

13  44 

4  48 

10  58 

1  59 

8  67 

6  73 

11  84 

2  86 

194 


TOURIST  S   COMPANION 


TABLE   OF    DISTANCES, 

FROM  PLACE  TO  PLACE  ON  THE  ERIE  CANAL. 


NAMES. 


Albany 

Port-Schuyler.. .  . 

West-Troy 

Junction  Cham.  c. 

Cohoes 

Lower  Aquednct. . 
Willow  springs.. . 
Upper  Aqueduct. . 
Schenectady  . .  . 

Rotterdam 

Amsterdam 

Schoharie  Creek. . 
Smithtown 

FULTONVILLE.  .  .  . 

Spraker's  Basin.... 

CanHJoharie 

Fort-Plain 

St.  Johnsville..  .  . 
East  Canada  cr... . 
Indian  Castle..  .  . 
Little  Falls  . . . 
Herkimer  L.  Br.. . 
Herkimer  U.  Br.. . 

Frankfort 

Utica 

York  Mills 

Whitesboro 

Oriskany 

Rome 

Wood  Creek .... 
Hawley's  Basin.. . 
New-London  .... 

Higgins' 

Loomis' 

Oneida  Creek..  .  . 

Canantota 

New*Boston .... 
Chittenango  .... 

Kirkville* 

Manlius 

Lodi 

Syracuse  

Geddefi 

Belitle 


5'^ 


0 

6 

1 

2 

1 

3 

6 

7 

4 

9 

8 

5 

2 

3 

9 

3 

3 

5 

4 

2 

5 

7 

1 

5 

9 

3 

1 

3 

8 

2 

2 

3 

4 

2 

3 

5 

4 

3 


1 
2 
4 


2  « 

r     -fi 


0 
6 
7 
9 
10 
13 
19 
26 
30 
39 
47 
52 
54 
57 
66 
69 
72 
77 
81 
83 
88 
95 
96 
101 
110 
113 
114 
117 
125 
127 
129 
132 
136 
138 
141 
M6 
150 
1.53 
5 1  1.58 
4  162 
8i  170 


171 
173 
177 


364 

353 

357 

355 

354 

351 

345 

338 

334 

325 

317 

312 

310 

307 

298 

295 

292 

287 

283 

281 

276 

269 

268 

263 

254 

251 

250 

247 

239 

2.37 

235 

232 

228 

226 

222 

218 

214 

211 

206 

2C2 

194 

193 

191 

187 


Camillus 

Canton 

Peru 

Jordan •. , 

Cold  Spring 

Weedsport 

C/entreport 

Port-Byron 

Montezuma 

Lockpit 

Clyde •  X  •  • 

Lock-Berlin 

Lyons 

Lockville 

Newark 

Port  Gilison 

Palmyra 

Macedonville 

Wayneport 

Perrinton 

Perrinton  Centre.. 

Fairport 

Fullam's  Basin.  .  . 
Bushnell's  Basin.. 

Pittsford 

Billinghasts  Basin 

Rochester 

Brockway's 

Spencer's  Basin.. . 
Adam's  Basin..  .  . 
Cooley's  Basin.  .  . 

Brockport 

Holiey 

Hulberton 

Albion 

Gaines'  Basin.  .  .  . 
Eagle  Harbor..  .  . 
KnuwlesviPe  .... 

Medina 

Shelby  Basin 

Middleport 

Reynold's  Basin.. . 
Gasport 

LOCKPORT 

Pendleton 

Tonawanda 

Lower  Black  Rock 

Black  Rock 

Buffalo 


2 
5 
2 
4 
1 
5 
1 
2 
6 
6 
5 
5 
4 
6 
1 
3 
5 
4 
3 
2 
2 
1 
1 
3 
3 
4 
6 
10 
2 
3 
3 
2 
5 
4 
6 
2 
1 

si 

4 

3 
3 
3 
2 
7 
7 
12 
8 
1 
3 


178 

1  185 

184 

160 

18« 

178 

190 

174 

191 

173 

196 

163 

197 

167 

199 

165 

205 

159 

211 

153 

216 

148 

221 

143 

225 

139 

231 

133 

232 

132 

235 

129 

240 

m 

244 

120 

247 

117 

249 

115 

251 

113 

252 

112 

253 

111 

2;j6 

108 

259 

105 

263 

101 

'269 

95 

279 

85 

281 

83 

284 

80 

287 

77 

289 

75 

294 

70 

298 

60 

304 

60 

306 

58 

307 

57 

311 

.53 

315 

49 

318 

46 

321 

43 

324 

40 

326 

38 

333 

31 

340 

24 

352 

12 

360 

4 

361 

3 

364 

0 

17) 

9   185 

►  18. 

1  180 

m 

5  178 

m 

)  174 

19] 

I  173 

19< 

i   168 

m 

r  167 

m 

)  165 

20f 

i   159 

211 

i  153 

21C 

;  148 

221 

143 

225 

>  139 

231 

133 

232 

132 

23.1 

129 

240 

124 

244 

120 

247 

117 

249 

115 

251 

113 

252 

112 

253 

111 

256 

108 

259 

105 

263 

101 

'269 

95 

279 

85 

281 

83 

284 

80 

287 

77 

289 

75 

294 

70 

298 

6G 

304 

60 

306 

58 

307 

57 

311 

53 

315 

49 

318 

46 

321 

43 

324 

40 

326 

38 

333 

31 

340 

24 

352 

12 

300 

4 

)61 

3 

m 

0 

